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2013 Subaru Outback
2013 - 2014 Subaru Outback
Flat 4 2.5L
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Subaru FA/FB Series Engine Timing Chains: Removal & Installation

Subaru FA/FB Series Engine Timing Chains: Removal & Installation

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10mm
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12mm
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or (7/16")
14mm
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or (17/32")
17mm
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How to Service the Timing Chain on a 2013-2014 Subaru Outback 2.5L (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step guide correcting timing belt confusion with tools, parts, safety tips, and timing checks for 2013, 2014

How to Service the Timing Chain on a 2013-2014 Subaru Outback 2.5L (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step guide correcting timing belt confusion with tools, parts, safety tips, and timing checks for 2013, 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Timing Belt Replacement

Your Outback with the 2.5L flat-4 uses a timing chain, not a timing belt. That means there is no routine timing belt replacement service on this engine.

If you are hearing chain rattle, have cam/crank correlation codes, oil leaks at the front cover, or poor running, the repair is timing chain/front timing cover service, which is a much more advanced job.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Do not remove the front timing cover unless you are prepared to correctly time the engine.
  • ⚠️ Incorrect camshaft or crankshaft timing can cause engine damage or a no-start condition.
  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near coolant, exhaust, or the radiator area.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing electrical connectors near the engine front.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle securely with jack stands if lifting it. Never rely on a jack alone.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
  • Serpentine belt tool
  • Crankshaft pulley holder (specialty)
  • Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
  • Plastic trim clip remover
  • Gasket scraper plastic
  • Drain pan 10-quart
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
  • Front timing cover sealant - Qty: 1
  • Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
  • Engine oil 0W-20 synthetic - Qty: 5.1 quarts
  • Oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Subaru-compatible coolant - Qty: As needed
  • Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • ⚠️ Important correction: your Outback does not have a timing belt. It has timing chains inside the front engine cover.
  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Allow the engine to cool completely before draining coolant or removing the radiator area components.
  • A harmonic balancer is the large crankshaft pulley at the front of the engine. A puller is a tool that removes it without bending it.
  • A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact tightness. This matters because engine cover bolts can leak if over-tightened or under-tightened.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm This Is the Right Repair

  • Use a scan tool if available to check for camshaft/crankshaft timing codes before disassembly.
  • If the engine only needs routine maintenance, do not replace a timing belt because your Outback does not have one.
  • Timing chain service is usually done only for noise, chain stretch, failed guides, failed tensioner, oil leaks, or timing-related fault codes.
  • Tip: Diagnose first, replace second.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Move the cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back into contact.

Step 3: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Outback at the approved front jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 4: Drain Coolant and Engine Oil

  • Place a 10-quart drain pan under the radiator drain area.
  • Use nitrile gloves and safety glasses before opening any drain points.
  • Drain the coolant into the pan.
  • Move the 10-quart drain pan under the engine oil pan.
  • Use a 14mm socket to remove the oil drain plug.
  • Reinstall the oil drain plug and tighten to Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove Engine Covers and Front Access Items

  • Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove plastic clips from the upper radiator cover or splash panels as needed.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove brackets, covers, and front access components blocking the timing cover.
  • Keep bolts grouped by location. Subaru uses several similar-looking bolts in this area.
  • Tip: Label bolts in sandwich bags.

Step 6: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt

  • Use a serpentine belt tool to rotate the belt tensioner and release belt tension.
  • Slide the accessory drive belt off the pulleys.
  • Take a photo of the belt routing before removal if the routing label is missing.

Step 7: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley

  • Install the crankshaft pulley holder to keep the pulley from turning.
  • Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  • Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the crankshaft pulley if it does not slide off by hand.
  • Do not pry against the timing cover. It can crack or bend the sealing surface.

Step 8: Remove the Front Timing Cover

  • Use 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to remove the timing cover bolts.
  • Note bolt length and location carefully. Different lengths are used around the cover.
  • Use a plastic gasket scraper to gently separate the timing cover from the engine.
  • Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.

Step 9: Set Engine Timing Before Removing the Chain

  • Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine clockwise only.
  • Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks according to the timing chain marks.
  • Paint-mark the chain and sprockets before removal to create an extra visual reference.
  • Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after the chain is removed unless the service procedure requires it.

Step 10: Remove the Timing Chain Tensioner and Guides

  • Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket as fitted to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
  • Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove the chain guide bolts.
  • Remove the timing chain from the sprockets.
  • Keep hands clear of spring-loaded tensioner parts.

Step 11: Install the New Timing Chain, Guides, and Tensioner

  • Use the colored chain links to align the new chain with the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks.
  • Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to install the new timing chain guides.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten guide and tensioner fasteners to Subaru service-spec torque for the exact bolt size and location.
  • Install the new tensioner only after all chain marks are aligned.
  • Release the tensioner pin after verifying the chain is correctly seated on every sprocket.

Step 12: Verify Timing by Hand

  • Use a 22mm socket to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
  • Stop immediately if you feel hard resistance.
  • Recheck that the timing marks return to their correct positions.
  • If the marks are off, do not continue. Remove and reset the chain.

Step 13: Clean and Reseal the Front Timing Cover

  • Use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old sealant from the timing cover and engine block.
  • Wipe the surfaces clean and dry.
  • Apply front timing cover sealant in the factory-style bead path around oil and coolant passages.
  • Install a new crankshaft front seal into the timing cover before reinstalling the cover.
  • Tip: Clean sealing surfaces prevent leaks.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Timing Cover

  • Carefully place the timing cover onto the engine without smearing the sealant.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to install bolts by hand first.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten bolts evenly in stages following the factory tightening sequence.
  • Do not overtighten small cover bolts. They thread into aluminum.

Step 15: Reinstall the Crankshaft Pulley

  • Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft by hand.
  • Use the crankshaft pulley holder to hold the pulley still.
  • Use a 22mm socket and torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to Subaru service-spec torque.

Step 16: Install the New Accessory Drive Belt

  • Route the new accessory drive belt around the pulleys using the belt routing label or your photo.
  • Use the serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner.
  • Slide the belt into place and slowly release the tensioner.
  • Check that every belt rib sits correctly in each pulley groove.

Step 17: Refill Oil and Coolant

  • Install a new oil filter by hand until snug, then tighten according to the filter instructions.
  • Add 0W-20 synthetic engine oil to the engine.
  • Refill the cooling system with Subaru-compatible coolant.
  • Use a 10-quart drain pan underneath while checking for leaks.

Step 18: Reconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Make sure the terminal is snug and does not rotate by hand.

✅ After Repair

  • Before starting, crank the engine only after confirming timing marks and all tools are removed from the engine bay.
  • Start the engine and listen for chain slap, knocking, or abnormal rattling. Shut it off immediately if anything sounds wrong.
  • Check the timing cover, crank seal, oil filter, drain plug, and coolant hoses for leaks.
  • Let the engine reach operating temperature and confirm the cooling fans cycle on.
  • Top off coolant after the engine cools completely.
  • Clear any stored timing-related codes with a scan tool and road test gently.
  • Recheck oil and coolant levels after the first drive.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $1,000-$2,300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.


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