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2013 Subaru Forester
2013 - 2014 Subaru Forester
Flat 4 2.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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Subaru FA/FB Series Engine Timing Chains: Removal & Installation

Subaru FA/FB Series Engine Timing Chains: Removal & Installation

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Socket
or (21/32")
22mm
22mm
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or (7/8")
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How to Service the Timing Chain on a 2013-2014 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step guide explaining why it has no timing belt, with tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013, 2014

How to Service the Timing Chain on a 2013-2014 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step guide explaining why it has no timing belt, with tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013, 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 Forester - Timing System Replacement

Your Forester’s 2.5L naturally aspirated engine uses an internal timing chain, not a rubber timing belt. There is no normal timing belt replacement service on your Forester.

If you are trying to fix timing noise, cam/crank correlation codes, chain stretch, oil leaks at the timing cover, or failed guides, the correct repair is timing chain service. This is a major engine-front repair that requires careful timing alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Do not attempt this repair unless you are comfortable removing engine covers, sealing aluminum engine parts, and setting cam/crank timing.
  • ⚠️ Incorrect timing can cause engine damage or a no-start condition.
  • ⚠️ Work with the engine completely cool to avoid burns.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing front engine components.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle securely if raising it. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Keep RTV sealant out of oil passages. Excess sealant can block lubrication and damage the engine.
  • ⚠️ Mark timing positions before removal, but do not rely on paint marks alone. Use the factory timing marks.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
  • Socket extension set
  • Crankshaft pulley holder (specialty)
  • Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
  • Plastic trim clip remover
  • Plastic scraper
  • Razor scraper
  • Drain pan
  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Fender cover
  • Shop towels
  • Paint marker
  • Flashlight
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Timing chain - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain guide set - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
  • Front timing cover sealant - Qty: 1
  • Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
  • Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
  • Engine oil - Qty: 5.1 quarts
  • Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Engine coolant - Qty: As needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Forester on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Take photos of belt routing, hose routing, and wiring clips before removal.
  • A timing chain synchronizes the crankshaft and camshafts so the valves open at the correct time.
  • A tensioner uses spring and oil pressure to keep the chain tight.
  • A guide is a plastic-faced rail that the chain rides against.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Move the cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Forester at the approved front jacking point.
  • Place jack stands under the front support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly positioned as a backup.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

  • Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove the lower engine cover clips.
  • Use a 12mm socket for any splash shield bolts.
  • Set the shield and clips aside in order.

Step 4: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant

  • Place a drain pan under the oil drain plug.
  • Use a 17mm socket to remove the oil drain plug.
  • Drain the engine oil completely.
  • Reinstall the oil drain plug and Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
  • Move the drain pan under the radiator drain area and drain enough coolant to keep it below the timing cover level.

Step 5: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt

  • Use a 14mm socket or serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
  • Rotate the tensioner to release belt pressure.
  • Slide the belt off one upper pulley and remove it from the engine bay.
  • Take a routing photo first.

Step 6: Remove Obstructing Front Components

  • Use 10mm and 12mm sockets to remove front brackets, harness retainers, and covers that block timing cover access.
  • Use a plastic trim clip remover for wire clips so they do not break.
  • Label connectors with tape if needed.

Step 7: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley

  • Install the crankshaft pulley holder onto the crank pulley.
  • Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  • Remove the bolt and washer.
  • Use a harmonic balancer puller if the pulley will not slide off by hand.
  • Do not pry against the timing cover.

Step 8: Remove the Front Timing Cover

  • Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to remove the timing cover bolts.
  • Note bolt locations because lengths vary.
  • Use a plastic scraper to separate the cover at the factory pry points.
  • Do not drive a screwdriver between the aluminum sealing surfaces.

Step 9: Set Cylinder 1 at Top Dead Center

  • Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt temporarily threaded into the crankshaft.
  • Rotate the engine clockwise only until the factory timing marks align.
  • Top Dead Center means piston 1 is at the top of its stroke and the timing marks are aligned for service.
  • Use a paint marker to add reference marks after the factory marks are aligned.

Step 10: Remove the Chain Tensioner

  • Use a 10mm or 12mm socket, depending on fastener size, to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
  • Remove the tensioner slowly so chain slack does not shift suddenly.
  • Keep the chain supported by hand while removing guides.

Step 11: Remove Timing Chain Guides

  • Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to remove the chain guide bolts.
  • Remove the guides one at a time.
  • Watch for broken plastic guide pieces inside the timing area.

Step 12: Remove the Timing Chain

  • Carefully lift the timing chain off the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket.
  • Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after the chain is removed.
  • If anything moves, stop and realign using the factory marks before installation.

Step 13: Install the New Timing Chain

  • Align the colored chain links with the factory timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.
  • Use the flashlight to confirm each timing mark is exact.
  • The chain must sit fully on each sprocket tooth.

Step 14: Install New Guides and Tensioner

  • Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to install the new timing chain guides.
  • Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten guide bolts to the specification supplied with the service kit if included.
  • Install the new timing chain tensioner with a 10mm or 12mm socket.
  • Pull the tensioner locking pin only after the chain, guides, and marks are correctly positioned.

Step 15: Verify Timing by Hand

  • Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt.
  • Rotate the engine clockwise by hand two full crankshaft revolutions.
  • Stop immediately if you feel hard contact.
  • Recheck the timing marks after rotation.
  • Colored chain links may not line up again right away; factory sprocket timing marks must be correct.

Step 16: Clean the Sealing Surfaces

  • Use a plastic scraper to remove old sealant from the engine and timing cover.
  • Use a razor scraper only on stubborn spots and keep it flat to avoid gouging aluminum.
  • Wipe the surfaces clean with shop towels.
  • Do not leave loose sealant inside the engine.

Step 17: Install the Front Crankshaft Seal

  • Use a seal driver or a flat, matching-size driver to press the new crankshaft seal squarely into the timing cover.
  • Lightly oil the inner lip of the seal with clean engine oil.
  • Do not fold the seal lip during installation.

Step 18: Reinstall the Timing Cover

  • Apply front timing cover sealant in the factory bead pattern.
  • Carefully place the timing cover onto the engine without smearing the sealant.
  • Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to install the bolts by hand first.
  • Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten bolts evenly in stages.
  • Follow the sealant cure time before adding oil if specified by the sealant manufacturer.

Step 19: Reinstall the Crankshaft Pulley

  • Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft by hand.
  • Install the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer.
  • Use the crankshaft pulley holder to prevent rotation.
  • Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to factory specification.

Step 20: Reinstall the Accessory Belt

  • Route the accessory drive belt using your photo.
  • Use a 14mm socket or serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner.
  • Slip the belt over the final pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
  • Use the flashlight to confirm all belt ribs are seated correctly.

Step 21: Reinstall Covers and Brackets

  • Use 10mm and 12mm sockets to reinstall any removed covers and brackets.
  • Use the plastic trim clip remover to reinstall splash shield clips without bending them.
  • Confirm wiring harnesses are clipped back in their original positions.

Step 22: Refill Oil and Coolant

  • Install a new oil filter by hand until snug, then tighten according to the filter instructions.
  • Add the correct amount of engine oil.
  • Refill coolant as needed.
  • Use shop towels to clean spills before startup.

Step 23: Reconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery terminal.
  • Make sure the clamp is tight and does not twist by hand.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Crank the engine only after all tools are removed from the engine bay.
  • ✅ Start the engine and let it idle while checking for oil or coolant leaks.
  • ✅ Listen for rattling from the timing cover area. Shut off the engine if loud chain noise occurs.
  • ✅ Watch the accessory belt for smooth tracking.
  • ✅ Let the engine reach operating temperature, then top off coolant as needed.
  • ✅ Recheck engine oil level after the engine sits for several minutes.
  • ✅ If the check engine light comes on with cam/crank timing codes, stop driving and recheck mechanical timing.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,600-$2,800 parts + labor

DIY Cost: $250-$650 parts only

You Save: $1,000-$2,150 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.


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