How to Service the Timing Chain on a 2013-2014 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step guide explaining why it has no timing belt, with tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013, 2014
How to Service the Timing Chain on a 2013-2014 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step guide explaining why it has no timing belt, with tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013, 2014
🔧 Forester - Timing System Replacement
Your Forester’s 2.5L naturally aspirated engine uses an internal timing chain, not a rubber timing belt. There is no normal timing belt replacement service on your Forester.
If you are trying to fix timing noise, cam/crank correlation codes, chain stretch, oil leaks at the timing cover, or failed guides, the correct repair is timing chain service. This is a major engine-front repair that requires careful timing alignment.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not attempt this repair unless you are comfortable removing engine covers, sealing aluminum engine parts, and setting cam/crank timing.
- ⚠️ Incorrect timing can cause engine damage or a no-start condition.
- ⚠️ Work with the engine completely cool to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing front engine components.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle securely if raising it. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep RTV sealant out of oil passages. Excess sealant can block lubrication and damage the engine.
- ⚠️ Mark timing positions before removal, but do not rely on paint marks alone. Use the factory timing marks.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- Socket extension set
- Crankshaft pulley holder (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Plastic scraper
- Razor scraper
- Drain pan
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Fender cover
- Shop towels
- Paint marker
- Flashlight
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guide set - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Front timing cover sealant - Qty: 1
- Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
- Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
- Engine oil - Qty: 5.1 quarts
- Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant - Qty: As needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Forester on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Take photos of belt routing, hose routing, and wiring clips before removal.
- A timing chain synchronizes the crankshaft and camshafts so the valves open at the correct time.
- A tensioner uses spring and oil pressure to keep the chain tight.
- A guide is a plastic-faced rail that the chain rides against.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Move the cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Forester at the approved front jacking point.
- Place jack stands under the front support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Keep the floor jack lightly positioned as a backup.
Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove the lower engine cover clips.
- Use a 12mm socket for any splash shield bolts.
- Set the shield and clips aside in order.
Step 4: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant
- Place a drain pan under the oil drain plug.
- Use a 17mm socket to remove the oil drain plug.
- Drain the engine oil completely.
- Reinstall the oil drain plug and Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
- Move the drain pan under the radiator drain area and drain enough coolant to keep it below the timing cover level.
Step 5: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt
- Use a 14mm socket or serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner to release belt pressure.
- Slide the belt off one upper pulley and remove it from the engine bay.
- Take a routing photo first.
Step 6: Remove Obstructing Front Components
- Use 10mm and 12mm sockets to remove front brackets, harness retainers, and covers that block timing cover access.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover for wire clips so they do not break.
- Label connectors with tape if needed.
Step 7: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Install the crankshaft pulley holder onto the crank pulley.
- Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Remove the bolt and washer.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller if the pulley will not slide off by hand.
- Do not pry against the timing cover.
Step 8: Remove the Front Timing Cover
- Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to remove the timing cover bolts.
- Note bolt locations because lengths vary.
- Use a plastic scraper to separate the cover at the factory pry points.
- Do not drive a screwdriver between the aluminum sealing surfaces.
Step 9: Set Cylinder 1 at Top Dead Center
- Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt temporarily threaded into the crankshaft.
- Rotate the engine clockwise only until the factory timing marks align.
- Top Dead Center means piston 1 is at the top of its stroke and the timing marks are aligned for service.
- Use a paint marker to add reference marks after the factory marks are aligned.
Step 10: Remove the Chain Tensioner
- Use a 10mm or 12mm socket, depending on fastener size, to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
- Remove the tensioner slowly so chain slack does not shift suddenly.
- Keep the chain supported by hand while removing guides.
Step 11: Remove Timing Chain Guides
- Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to remove the chain guide bolts.
- Remove the guides one at a time.
- Watch for broken plastic guide pieces inside the timing area.
Step 12: Remove the Timing Chain
- Carefully lift the timing chain off the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket.
- Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after the chain is removed.
- If anything moves, stop and realign using the factory marks before installation.
Step 13: Install the New Timing Chain
- Align the colored chain links with the factory timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.
- Use the flashlight to confirm each timing mark is exact.
- The chain must sit fully on each sprocket tooth.
Step 14: Install New Guides and Tensioner
- Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to install the new timing chain guides.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten guide bolts to the specification supplied with the service kit if included.
- Install the new timing chain tensioner with a 10mm or 12mm socket.
- Pull the tensioner locking pin only after the chain, guides, and marks are correctly positioned.
Step 15: Verify Timing by Hand
- Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt.
- Rotate the engine clockwise by hand two full crankshaft revolutions.
- Stop immediately if you feel hard contact.
- Recheck the timing marks after rotation.
- Colored chain links may not line up again right away; factory sprocket timing marks must be correct.
Step 16: Clean the Sealing Surfaces
- Use a plastic scraper to remove old sealant from the engine and timing cover.
- Use a razor scraper only on stubborn spots and keep it flat to avoid gouging aluminum.
- Wipe the surfaces clean with shop towels.
- Do not leave loose sealant inside the engine.
Step 17: Install the Front Crankshaft Seal
- Use a seal driver or a flat, matching-size driver to press the new crankshaft seal squarely into the timing cover.
- Lightly oil the inner lip of the seal with clean engine oil.
- Do not fold the seal lip during installation.
Step 18: Reinstall the Timing Cover
- Apply front timing cover sealant in the factory bead pattern.
- Carefully place the timing cover onto the engine without smearing the sealant.
- Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to install the bolts by hand first.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten bolts evenly in stages.
- Follow the sealant cure time before adding oil if specified by the sealant manufacturer.
Step 19: Reinstall the Crankshaft Pulley
- Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft by hand.
- Install the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer.
- Use the crankshaft pulley holder to prevent rotation.
- Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to factory specification.
Step 20: Reinstall the Accessory Belt
- Route the accessory drive belt using your photo.
- Use a 14mm socket or serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner.
- Slip the belt over the final pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
- Use the flashlight to confirm all belt ribs are seated correctly.
Step 21: Reinstall Covers and Brackets
- Use 10mm and 12mm sockets to reinstall any removed covers and brackets.
- Use the plastic trim clip remover to reinstall splash shield clips without bending them.
- Confirm wiring harnesses are clipped back in their original positions.
Step 22: Refill Oil and Coolant
- Install a new oil filter by hand until snug, then tighten according to the filter instructions.
- Add the correct amount of engine oil.
- Refill coolant as needed.
- Use shop towels to clean spills before startup.
Step 23: Reconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Make sure the clamp is tight and does not twist by hand.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Crank the engine only after all tools are removed from the engine bay.
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle while checking for oil or coolant leaks.
- ✅ Listen for rattling from the timing cover area. Shut off the engine if loud chain noise occurs.
- ✅ Watch the accessory belt for smooth tracking.
- ✅ Let the engine reach operating temperature, then top off coolant as needed.
- ✅ Recheck engine oil level after the engine sits for several minutes.
- ✅ If the check engine light comes on with cam/crank timing codes, stop driving and recheck mechanical timing.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,600-$2,800 parts + labor
DIY Cost: $250-$650 parts only
You Save: $1,000-$2,150 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.














