How to Replace Wheel Bearings on a 2017 Toyota Corolla
Step-by-step hub and bearing replacement with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Wheel Bearings on a 2017 Toyota Corolla
Step-by-step hub and bearing replacement with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Wheel Bearing - Replacement
On your Corolla, the front and rear wheel bearings are serviced as hub/bearing assemblies, not as loose bearings. That means the job is usually a remove-and-replace assembly swap, but front and rear procedures differ, so both paths are listed below.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the vehicle securely with jack stands before removing any wheel or hub parts.
- Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- If equipped, deactivate the parking brake only as needed for rear service.
- Use caution near brake components; do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
- If a wheel speed sensor is removed, avoid damaging the sensor tip or wiring.
- Battery disconnect is not normally required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Breaker bar
- Ratchet
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Punch set
- Hammer
- Hub puller (specialty)
- Bearing press kit (specialty)
- Rubber mallet
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front wheel bearing and hub assembly - Qty: 2 if replacing both fronts
- Rear wheel bearing and hub assembly - Qty: 2 if replacing both rears
- New axle nut - Qty: 1 per side serviced
- New hub bolts - Qty: 1 set per side serviced
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake unless you are servicing the rear hub and need it released.
- Loosen the lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
- If the wheel speed sensor wiring is clipped to the knuckle or trailing arm, unclip it carefully first.
- Rust can make hub removal much harder.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the wheel
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts, then lift the car with a floor jack and secure it on jack stands.
- Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
Step 2: Remove brake components
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the brake caliper bolts.
- Hang the caliper with a hook or support it so the hose is not stretched.
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the caliper bracket if needed for access.
- Remove the rotor. If stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet.
Step 3: Disconnect wheel speed sensor wiring
- Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to free the sensor wire from the knuckle or trailing arm.
- Unplug the sensor connector if it blocks hub removal.
Step 4A: Front hub removal
- Use a 30mm or 32mm axle socket if your axle nut style requires it, then remove the axle nut.
- Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts from the back side.
- Use a hub puller (specialty) or tap the hub out with a hammer if it is seized.
- Torque on reassembly: axle nut to 216 Nm (159 ft-lbs).
Step 4B: Rear hub removal
- Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket to remove the rear hub bolts from the back side.
- Pull the hub assembly straight off the knuckle.
- If stuck, use penetrating oil and a rubber mallet; avoid striking the wheel speed sensor area.
- Torque on reassembly: hub bolts to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Install the new hub bearing assembly
- Clean the mounting surface with brake cleaner.
- Install the new hub assembly by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the hub bolts evenly.
- On the front, reinstall the axle nut and torque it to 216 Nm (159 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Reinstall brakes and wheel
- Reinstall the rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket.
- Torque caliper bracket bolts: 79 Nm (58 ft-lbs).
- Torque caliper slide pin bolts: 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Repeat on the other side if needed
- For best results, replace wheel bearings in pairs on the same axle.
- Matching both sides helps keep noise away.
✅ After Repair
- Pump the brake pedal before moving the car.
- Start the vehicle and check for ABS or traction warning lights.
- Road test at low speed first, then listen for noise changes through turns.
- If an ABS light stays on, scan for wheel speed sensor faults.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $400-$900 per side (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $90-$220 per side (parts only)
You Save: $310-$680 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















