How to Replace Wheel Bearings on a 2014 Chevrolet Equinox
Step-by-step hub assembly replacement with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and parts for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Wheel Bearings on a 2014 Chevrolet Equinox
Step-by-step hub assembly replacement with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and parts for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Wheel Bearings - Replacement
On your Equinox, the wheel bearing is part of the hub assembly, so the repair is usually a bolt-in replacement rather than a pressed-in bearing job. This means you remove the wheel, brake parts, and hub bolts, then install the new hub assembly and torque everything correctly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the vehicle securely on jack stands; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Chock the opposite wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
- If you have an electronic parking brake, make sure it is fully released before removing rear brake parts.
- Brake dust can be harmful; do not blow it off with compressed air.
- Use caution around the axle nut and brake components; both can be very tight.
- No battery disconnect is normally required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 24mm socket
- 35mm axle nut socket
- Ratchet
- Socket extension set
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hammer
- Rubber mallet
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
- Bungee cord or mechanic's wire
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front wheel hub and bearing assembly - Qty: 2 if replacing both front sides
- Rear wheel hub and bearing assembly - Qty: 2 if replacing both rear sides
- Front axle nut - Qty: 1 per side
- Rear axle nut - Qty: 1 per side
- ABS wheel speed sensor seal or hub seal - Qty: 1 per side if included separately
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
- If replacing a front hub, loosen the axle nut before raising the vehicle; it is very tight.
- If replacing a rear hub, remove the rear brake caliper and rotor first for access.
- Spray rusted bolts early.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the wheel and axle nut
- Use a 21mm socket to loosen the lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
- If doing the front, use a 35mm axle nut socket and a breaker bar to loosen the axle nut while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Do not remove the axle nut yet.
Step 2: Raise and secure the vehicle
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the vehicle at the proper jacking point.
- Set the vehicle on jack stands and verify it is stable.
- Remove the wheel with a 21mm socket.
Step 3: Remove the brake components
- Use an 18mm socket or 21mm socket to remove the brake caliper bolts, depending on position.
- Lift the caliper off and hang it with bungee cord or mechanic's wire.
- Remove the caliper bracket if needed using the same socket size.
- Remove the rotor by hand; if stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet.
Step 4: Disconnect the hub wiring
- Follow the ABS sensor wire from the hub and unplug it from the wheel speed sensor connector.
- Release any clips with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Do not pull on the wire itself.
Step 5: Remove the hub assembly
- Use an 18mm socket to remove the hub mounting bolts from the back of the knuckle.
- Spray penetrating oil on the bolts first if they are rusted.
- Tap the hub loose from the knuckle with a hammer if it is seized.
- If doing the front, remove the axle nut fully with the 35mm axle nut socket, then push the axle inward slightly.
- A few sharp hits usually break rust free.
Step 6: Clean the mounting surface
- Use a wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the knuckle mounting surface.
- Make sure the surface is smooth and flat so the new hub seats correctly.
Step 7: Install the new hub assembly
- Position the new hub on the knuckle and start the mounting bolts by hand.
- Use an 18mm socket to tighten the hub bolts evenly.
- Torque hub bolts to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
- If doing the front, slide the axle fully into the new hub before final tightening.
Step 8: Reinstall the axle nut and brake parts
- Install a new axle nut with the 35mm axle nut socket.
- Torque front axle nut to 300 Nm (221 ft-lbs).
- Torque rear axle nut to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper using the correct socket size.
- Torque caliper bracket bolts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
- Torque caliper guide bolts to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the wheel
- Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle and use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Spin the wheel by hand and listen for rubbing or grinding.
- Start the vehicle and test for ABS warning lights.
- Road test at low speed first, then confirm the noise is gone.
- If the ABS light stays on, scan for wheel speed sensor faults.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 50-100 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$900 per side (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$280 per side (parts only)
You Save: $330-$620 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours per side.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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