How to Replace Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2019 Chevrolet Traverse
Step-by-step DIY coolant hose replacement with tools, parts list, clamp torque specs, and air-bleeding tips for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
How to Replace Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2019 Chevrolet Traverse
Step-by-step DIY coolant hose replacement with tools, parts list, clamp torque specs, and air-bleeding tips for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
🔧 Traverse - Radiator Hose Replacement
On your Traverse, replacing a radiator hose means safely draining some coolant, removing the old hose and clamps, and installing a new hose without introducing leaks or air pockets. The key is working only when the engine is fully cool and refilling with the correct coolant afterward.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work on a cold engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Never remove the coolant reservoir cap when hot or pressurized.
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; keep away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ If you remove any electrical connectors, keep them dry and seated fully on reassembly.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 2
- Wheel chocks - Qty: 2
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Funnel
- Shop rags
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4" drive)
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Pick tool
- Razor blade scraper
- Torque wrench (inch-pound)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) - Qty: As needed
- Distilled water - Qty: As needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally 3+ hours).
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap to confirm there’s no pressure, then reinstall it lightly until you’re ready to drain.
- Decide which hose you’re replacing: the upper hose goes from the top of the radiator to the engine; the lower hose goes from the bottom of the radiator to the engine.
- Tip: Take a quick photo of clamp positions.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front and access the lower area (for lower hose)
- Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front lift point.
- Support the vehicle with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- If equipped, remove the lower splash shield fasteners using a 10mm socket and trim clip remover.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant to drop the level below the hose
- Place a drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator area.
- Slowly remove the coolant reservoir cap by hand (engine cold only).
- If your radiator has a drain cock you can access, open it carefully and let coolant drain into the pan.
- If there’s no easy drain access, you can drain by loosening the radiator-end clamp on the lower hose and letting coolant flow into the pan (control flow with the hose position).
- Have shop rags ready for spills.
Step 3: Identify your clamp type and loosen it
- A spring clamp is a squeeze-type clamp; use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress it and slide it back on the hose.
- A worm-gear clamp is a screw-type clamp; loosen it with a 7mm socket or 8mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet.
Step 4: Remove the old hose (upper or lower)
- Move both clamps away from the hose ends using hose clamp pliers (specialty) or a 7mm socket/8mm socket.
- Twist the hose to break it free. If it’s stuck, carefully work the edge loose with a pick tool.
- Pull the hose off the radiator fitting first, then off the engine fitting.
- Use the drain pan (at least 3-gallon) to catch any remaining coolant in the hose.
- Tip: Don’t pry hard on plastic fittings.
Step 5: Clean and inspect the fittings
- Wipe the radiator neck and engine neck with shop rags.
- If old rubber is stuck on the fitting, gently clean it using a razor blade scraper (light pressure only).
- Inspect the radiator neck and engine fitting for cracks, heavy corrosion, or pitting.
Step 6: Install the new hose and position clamps
- Slide the clamps onto the new hose before installing it.
- Push the hose fully onto the radiator fitting until it bottoms out.
- Push the hose fully onto the engine fitting until it bottoms out.
- Reposition the clamps back to the original clamp locations (usually just behind the raised bead on the fitting).
- If using worm-gear clamps, tighten with a 7mm socket or 8mm socket and torque wrench (inch-pound): Torque to 35-45 in-lbs (do not over-tighten).
Step 7: Reinstall shields and lower the vehicle (if removed)
- Reinstall the lower splash shield using a 10mm socket and trim clip remover.
- Raise slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), and lower the vehicle.
Step 8: Refill coolant and purge air
- Use a funnel to fill the coolant reservoir with Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) to the proper level mark.
- Start the engine and set the HVAC to HOT with the fan on medium.
- Let the engine idle and watch the temperature gauge. As it warms up, coolant level may drop; add more as needed with the engine idling.
- When the upper hose gets hot, the thermostat has opened and coolant is circulating; continue to monitor and top off.
- Shut the engine off, let it cool completely, then recheck and adjust the level to the correct mark.
- Tip: Small bubbles are normal during first warm-up.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks with the engine idling: look at both hose ends and under the vehicle.
- Take a short test drive (10–15 minutes), then recheck for leaks and recheck coolant level after a full cool-down.
- If you smell coolant or see dried crust at a clamp, retighten (worm-gear) or reposition (spring clamp).
- Dispose of old coolant properly at a local recycling/auto parts facility.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















