How to Replace Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2015 Honda Civic
Step-by-step coolant hose swap with required tools/parts, clamp tips, refill & bleeding steps, and leak checks for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Replace Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2015 Honda Civic
Step-by-step coolant hose swap with required tools/parts, clamp tips, refill & bleeding steps, and leak checks for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Civic - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll remove the old hose, clean the fittings, install a new hose with new clamps, then refill and “bleed” (remove air from) the cooling system.
Assumption: This covers both the upper and lower radiator hoses on your Civic.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never work under a car held only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; keep it away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ If the cooling fan turns on, it can start suddenly; keep hands/tools clear.
- Disconnecting the battery is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Slip-joint pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pick tool (small hook) (specialty)
- Shop rags
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 4
- Honda Type 2 coolant (premixed 50/50) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (best: sit overnight).
- Set the heater to HOT later during bleeding; this helps purge air from the heater core (the small radiator inside the dash).
- Lay out rags and a drain pan; coolant will spill when the hose comes off.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front (for easier access)
- Use a floor jack to lift the front jack point, then support with jack stands.
- Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove any 10mm bolts.
- Reinstall later: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) for 10mm splash shield bolts.
Step 3: Drain enough coolant to get below hose level
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain (petcock) area.
- Slowly loosen the radiator cap to the first stop to relieve any leftover pressure, then remove it fully by hand.
- Open the radiator drain carefully (usually hand-turn). Use a flathead screwdriver only if needed.
- Drain about 1-2 quarts (enough that the radiator level drops below the hose you’re changing), then close the drain snugly by hand. Don’t overtighten plastic drains.
Step 4: Remove the old hose clamp(s)
- If you have spring clamps (factory style), use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the tabs and slide the clamp back on the hose.
- If you have worm-gear clamps (screw type), loosen using a flathead screwdriver.
- A clamp is the metal band that squeezes the hose.
Step 5: Break the hose loose (don’t just yank)
- Twist the hose by hand to break the seal first.
- If it’s stuck, work a pick tool (small hook) gently between hose and fitting to release it. Do not gouge the radiator neck.
- Pull the hose off and aim it into the drain pan; more coolant will come out.
Step 6: Clean and inspect the fittings
- Use shop rags to wipe the radiator neck and engine/water outlet neck clean.
- Use a flashlight to check for cracks on the radiator neck (plastic) and corrosion on the metal neck.
- If the radiator neck is cracked, stop and don’t drive; it needs repair/replacement.
Step 7: Install the new hose and clamps
- Slide new clamps onto the new hose before installing (use hose clamp pliers or slip-joint pliers as needed).
- Push the hose fully onto the fitting until it bottoms out (fully seated).
- Position the clamp behind the raised “bead” on the fitting (this bead helps keep the hose from slipping off).
- For spring clamps, use hose clamp pliers to move the clamp into position.
- For worm clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug; do not crush the hose.
Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield
- Reinstall clips using a trim clip removal tool (or by hand) and bolts using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
- Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) for 10mm splash shield bolts.
Step 9: Refill coolant
- Insert a funnel into the radiator fill neck and add Honda Type 2 coolant (premixed 50/50).
- Fill the radiator to the neck, then fill the reservoir to the MAX line.
- Wipe spills using shop rags.
Step 10: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Leave the radiator cap off for now.
- Start the engine and set the HVAC to full HOT (fan medium). This opens coolant flow through the heater core.
- Watch coolant level at the radiator neck; add coolant as it drops using the funnel.
- Gently squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times (with gloves) to help move trapped air.
- Let the engine warm up until the radiator fan cycles on and then off at least once.
- When bubbling slows and level stabilizes, install the radiator cap by hand (fully seated).
- Shut the engine off and let it cool completely, then recheck the reservoir and top off to MAX if needed.
Step 11: Check for leaks
- With the engine running, use a flashlight to inspect both ends of the replaced hose for seepage.
- If you see a drip, shut off engine and reposition/tighten the clamp slightly.
✅ After Repair
- Take a 10-15 minute test drive while watching the temperature gauge.
- Park, let the engine cool, and recheck coolant level in the reservoir; top off to MAX with Honda Type 2 coolant.
- Recheck for leaks the next morning (cold engine) around the hose connections and under the car.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (parts stores often accept used fluids).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $30-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $170-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















