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2013 Jeep Wrangler
2013 Jeep Wrangler
Rubicon V6 3.6L
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
  • Jeep Wrangler
  • 2013
  • How to Replace Timing Chains on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L V6 (Trim: Sahara | Engine: V6 3.6L)
JEEP 3.6 HOW TO INSTALL TIMING CHAINS AND GEARS

JEEP 3.6 HOW TO INSTALL TIMING CHAINS AND GEARS

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3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Ratchet
8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
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Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Timing Chains on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L V6 (Trim: Sahara | Engine: V6 3.6L)

Step-by-step Pentastar timing chain diagnosis and repair with tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013

How to Replace Timing Chains on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L V6 (Trim: Sahara | Engine: V6 3.6L)

Step-by-step Pentastar timing chain diagnosis and repair with tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Wrangler - Timing Drive Inspection

Your Wrangler does not use a timing belt. The 3.6L V6 uses internal timing chains, which are designed to last much longer than a belt and are not a normal maintenance replacement item.

If you are hearing chain rattle, have cam/crank correlation codes, misfires, or oil sludge concerns, the correct repair is timing chain diagnosis and possible timing chain/guide/tensioner replacement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 10-16 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ This is an advanced internal engine repair. Incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing engine components.
  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near coolant, exhaust, or the front cover.
  • ⚠️ Keep dirt and debris out of the open engine. Cleanliness is critical.
  • ⚠️ The 3.6L timing system requires camshaft holding/alignment tools. Do not attempt this with paint marks only.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • Metric socket set 8mm-21mm
  • Metric wrench set 8mm-21mm
  • Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
  • Torque wrench 20-250 in-lbs
  • Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
  • Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
  • Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
  • 3.6L Pentastar camshaft holding tool set (specialty)
  • 3.6L Pentastar timing chain wedge tool (specialty)
  • Plastic trim removal tool
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
  • Gasket scraper plastic
  • Brake cleaner
  • Shop towels
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
  • Timing chain tensioners - Qty: 1 set
  • Front timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
  • Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
  • Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
  • RTV engine sealant - Qty: 1 tube
  • Engine oil 5W-20 synthetic blend or full synthetic - Qty: 6 quarts
  • Oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Engine coolant HOAT-compatible - Qty: as needed
  • Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Wrangler on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine sit until it is fully cool.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Take photos before removing hoses, connectors, and brackets. This helps during reassembly.
  • A timing chain links the crankshaft and camshafts so the valves open at the correct time.
  • A tensioner uses spring and oil pressure to keep the timing chain tight.
  • A camshaft holding tool locks the camshafts in the correct position during service.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Verify This Is Not a Timing Belt Job

  • Open the hood and confirm the front of the engine has a sealed metal timing cover, not a plastic belt cover.
  • Your Wrangler uses timing chains inside the engine, so there is no external timing belt to replace.
  • If the engine runs normally and has no timing-related noise or fault codes, no timing belt maintenance is required.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal.
  • Move the negative cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back.
  • Tip: Wrap the cable end with a towel.

Step 3: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the approved front axle lift point.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under solid axle support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 4: Drain Coolant and Engine Oil

  • Place a drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the radiator drain area.
  • Open the radiator drain carefully and catch the coolant.
  • Use a 13mm socket to remove the engine oil drain plug.
  • Reinstall the oil drain plug after draining and torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove Intake Ducting and Engine Covers

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake hose clamps.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove intake box or resonator fasteners as needed.
  • Lift off the engine cover by hand.
  • Tip: Label connectors with tape.

Step 6: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt

  • Use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet on the belt tensioner.
  • Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
  • Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it from the engine bay.
  • Draw a belt routing sketch before removal if the underhood label is missing.

Step 7: Remove Front Engine Accessories as Needed

  • Use 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets to remove brackets and accessories blocking the timing cover.
  • Do not disconnect A/C refrigerant lines. Move the compressor aside only if needed and support it safely.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to release hose clamps where required.

Step 8: Remove Valve Covers

  • Unplug ignition coil connectors by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove valve cover bolts.
  • Lift the valve covers off carefully without prying against sealing surfaces.
  • During reassembly, valve cover bolts are tightened evenly to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 9: Remove the Harmonic Balancer

  • The harmonic balancer is the large crankshaft pulley at the front of the engine.
  • Use a crankshaft pulley holding tool to hold the balancer steady.
  • Use a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive and correct socket to loosen the crankshaft bolt.
  • Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the balancer straight off the crankshaft.

Step 10: Remove the Front Timing Cover

  • Use 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets to remove the timing cover bolts.
  • Note bolt locations because lengths can vary.
  • Use a plastic gasket scraper to gently separate the cover.
  • Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.

Step 11: Set Engine Timing Position

  • Use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet on the crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine by hand clockwise only.
  • Bring the engine to the correct timing service position before chain removal.
  • Install the 3.6L Pentastar camshaft holding tool set to lock the camshafts.
  • Install the 3.6L Pentastar timing chain wedge tool where required to prevent chain movement.
  • Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts independently once the chains are removed.

Step 12: Remove Timing Chain Tensioners, Guides, and Chains

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove timing chain guide bolts.
  • Use the correct metric socket to remove tensioner bolts.
  • Remove the timing chains only after the camshaft holding tools are installed.
  • Keep old parts arranged in order so you can compare them with the new parts.

Step 13: Install New Timing Chains, Guides, and Tensioners

  • Use the timing marks on the new chains and sprockets exactly as supplied with the timing kit.
  • Install new guides using a 10mm socket.
  • Install new tensioners using the correct metric socket.
  • Tighten timing guide and tensioner fasteners to the specification supplied with the timing kit if it differs from service data.
  • Do not pull tensioner release pins until all timing marks are verified.

Step 14: Verify Timing Before Closing the Engine

  • Remove holding tools only after the chains, guides, and tensioners are secured.
  • Use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to rotate the crankshaft clockwise by hand two full revolutions.
  • If the engine stops suddenly, do not force it. Recheck timing alignment.
  • Reinstall the holding tools and confirm the timing marks return to the correct positions.

Step 15: Clean and Reinstall the Timing Cover

  • Use a plastic gasket scraper and brake cleaner to clean sealing surfaces.
  • Install a new crankshaft front seal into the timing cover.
  • Apply RTV engine sealant only at the required joints and corners.
  • Use 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets to install the timing cover bolts by hand first.
  • Tighten bolts evenly in stages. Small cover bolts are commonly tightened to about 12 Nm (106 in-lbs); verify exact bolt-size torque for your fastener locations.

Step 16: Reinstall Harmonic Balancer and Accessories

  • Slide the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft by hand as straight as possible.
  • Use the proper installer if resistance is high. Do not hammer it on.
  • Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool and torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs for final tightening if the service procedure requires staged torque.
  • Reinstall accessories and brackets using 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets.

Step 17: Reinstall Valve Covers

  • Install new valve cover gaskets into the covers.
  • Set the valve covers in place by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket to start all bolts by hand.
  • Use a torque wrench 20-250 in-lbs and tighten evenly to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 18: Install New Accessory Belt

  • Route the new belt around the pulleys according to the underhood belt diagram.
  • Use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner.
  • Slip the belt over the final pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
  • Check that the belt ribs sit fully in each pulley groove.

Step 19: Refill Oil and Coolant

  • Install a new oil filter by hand, then tighten according to the filter instructions.
  • Add engine oil 5W-20 through the oil fill cap.
  • Refill the cooling system with HOAT-compatible coolant.
  • Use shop towels to clean any spilled oil or coolant.

Step 20: Reconnect Battery and Initial Start

  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Listen for abnormal rattling, knocking, or belt noise.
  • Shut the engine off immediately if it runs rough or makes loud mechanical noise.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check for oil leaks around the timing cover, valve covers, oil filter, and drain plug.
  • ✅ Check for coolant leaks after the engine reaches operating temperature.
  • ✅ Monitor coolant level after the first full heat cycle and top off as needed.
  • ✅ Road-test gently for 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks.
  • ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for cam/crank correlation codes before driving further.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,200+ parts + labor

DIY Cost: $350-$900 parts only

You Save: $1,200-$2,300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 10-16 hours.


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