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2019 Ram 1500
2019 Ram 1500
V6 3.6L
Compatible with more variants.

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  • Ram 1500
  • 2019
  • How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2019 Ram 1500 3.6L eTorque (Engine: V8 5.7L)
How to Replace a Water Pump on a 2019 Ram 1500 5.7L HEMI (DIY start by step)

How to Replace a Water Pump on a 2019 Ram 1500 5.7L HEMI (DIY start by step)

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Tools & Fluids

8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2019 Ram 1500 3.6L eTorque (Engine: V8 5.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, coolant bleeding, and safety tips for 2019

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2019 Ram 1500 3.6L eTorque (Engine: V8 5.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, coolant bleeding, and safety tips for 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 1500 - Water Pump Replacement

This repair replaces the engine water pump, which circulates coolant through your 3.6L mild-hybrid engine to prevent overheating. On your 1500, the cooling system must be drained, the serpentine belt removed, and the water pump unbolted from the front of the engine.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system. Hot coolant can cause serious burns.
  • ⚠️ Your 1500 has a mild-hybrid eTorque system. Do not touch orange high-voltage cables or hybrid components.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the 12-volt battery negative cable before working near the belt-driven components.
  • ⚠️ Keep coolant away from pets and children. It is poisonous and tastes sweet.
  • ⚠️ Never run the engine with the serpentine belt removed.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive extension set
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
  • Torque wrench 5-80 ft-lb range
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Plastic trim clip remover
  • Gasket scraper plastic
  • Drain pan 3-gallon minimum
  • Coolant funnel kit spill-free (specialty)
  • Pliers
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine water pump with gasket - Qty: 1
  • Mopar OAT coolant concentrate or premix compatible coolant - Qty: 2-3 gallons
  • Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
  • Thermostat housing seal if disturbed - Qty: 1
  • Distilled water if using coolant concentrate - Qty: 2 gallons

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your 1500 on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • ❄️ Make sure the engine is stone cold before removing the coolant cap.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the negative 12-volt battery cable using a 10mm socket. The 12-volt battery powers normal vehicle electronics.
  • 📸 Take a photo of the serpentine belt routing before removal. This helps during reinstallation.
  • 🧰 A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin handle used to move the belt tensioner in tight spaces.
  • 🧼 A spill-free funnel locks onto the coolant fill neck and helps remove trapped air from the cooling system.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove Engine Cover and Intake Duct

  • Use both hands to lift the engine cover straight upward from its rubber mounts.
  • Use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake tube clamps.
  • Use pliers to release any small hose clamps attached to the intake duct.
  • Remove the intake duct and set it aside.
  • Take photos before unplugging anything.

Step 2: Disconnect the 12-Volt Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery cable clamp.
  • Move the negative cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back.
  • Do not disconnect or touch orange hybrid wiring.

Step 3: Drain the Coolant

  • Place a 3-gallon minimum drain pan under the radiator drain area.
  • Slowly remove the coolant pressure cap by hand only after the engine is cool.
  • Open the radiator drain petcock if accessible, or remove the lower radiator hose clamp using pliers.
  • Let the coolant drain fully into the pan.
  • Close the drain petcock or reinstall the lower hose after draining.

Step 4: Remove Splash Shield if Needed

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove lower shield bolts if the shield blocks access.
  • Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove plastic push clips without breaking them.
  • Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.

Step 5: Release Serpentine Belt Tension

  • Locate the belt tensioner on the front of the engine. The tensioner is the spring-loaded pulley that keeps the belt tight.
  • Use a serpentine belt tool or 1/2-inch drive breaker bar in the tensioner square drive.
  • Rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension.
  • Slide the belt off the water pump pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
  • Remove the belt from the engine bay.
  • Compare belt routing with your photo.

Step 6: Remove Water Pump Pulley Bolts

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
  • If the pulley spins, hold it steady by hand with gloves or use the belt wrapped around the pulley for grip.
  • Remove the pulley bolts and pulley.

Step 7: Remove Hoses from Water Pump

  • Use pliers to compress the spring clamps on the coolant hoses.
  • Slide the clamps back on the hoses.
  • Twist the hoses gently by hand to break them loose.
  • Pull the hoses off the water pump fittings.
  • Use shop towels to catch leftover coolant.

Step 8: Remove the Old Water Pump

  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive extension to remove the water pump mounting bolts.
  • Note bolt locations as you remove them. Some bolts may be different lengths.
  • Gently pull the water pump away from the timing cover.
  • Do not pry hard against aluminum surfaces.

Step 9: Clean the Mounting Surface

  • Use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old gasket material from the engine surface.
  • Wipe the area clean with shop towels.
  • Do not gouge or scratch the aluminum timing cover.
  • Make sure no debris falls into coolant passages.

Step 10: Install the New Water Pump

  • Place the new gasket onto the new water pump.
  • Position the water pump against the engine by hand.
  • Start all bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use a 10mm socket to snug the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten the water pump bolts to Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall Hoses and Pulley

  • Push the coolant hoses fully onto the new water pump fittings by hand.
  • Use pliers to move the spring clamps back to their original positions.
  • Install the water pump pulley by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket to snug the pulley bolts.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten the pulley bolts to Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Install the Serpentine Belt

  • Route the new serpentine belt around the pulleys using your photo as a guide.
  • Use the serpentine belt tool or 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner.
  • Slide the belt onto the final pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
  • Check that the belt ribs are seated correctly in every grooved pulley.
  • One rib off can shred the belt.

Step 13: Reinstall Intake Duct and Shield

  • Reinstall the lower splash shield if removed.
  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall shield bolts until snug.
  • Use a plastic trim clip remover or your fingers to reinstall push clips.
  • Reinstall the intake duct.
  • Use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to tighten the intake tube clamps.
  • Reconnect any hoses removed earlier using pliers if clamps are used.

Step 14: Refill the Cooling System

  • Install the spill-free coolant funnel at the coolant fill neck.
  • Fill with the correct Mopar OAT-compatible coolant. Use 50/50 premix, or mix concentrate with distilled water.
  • Fill slowly to reduce trapped air.
  • Squeeze the upper radiator hose by hand several times to help move air out.

Step 15: Reconnect Battery and Bleed Air

  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Start the engine and set the cabin heater to full hot.
  • Let the engine idle while watching the funnel coolant level.
  • Add coolant as the level drops.
  • Watch for bubbles in the funnel. Bubbles mean air is leaving the system.
  • When the thermostat opens, the upper radiator hose will get hot and coolant level may drop again.
  • Install the pressure cap once bubbling stops and the level is correct.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check around the water pump, hose connections, and lower radiator area for leaks.
  • 🌡️ Watch the temperature gauge during the first full warm-up. It should stay normal.
  • 🔥 Confirm the heater blows hot air. No heat can mean trapped air in the cooling system.
  • 🧪 After the engine cools completely, recheck coolant level and top off if needed.
  • 🔍 Recheck for leaks again after the first drive.
  • ♻️ Take old coolant to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used coolant.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$670 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.


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