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2018 Honda CR-V
2017 - 2019 Honda CR-V
Inline 4 1.5L
Compatible with more variants.

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  • Honda CR-V
  • 2018
  • How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2017-2019 Honda CR-V 2.4L (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
2018 HONDA CR-V WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT

2018 HONDA CR-V WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT

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19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2017-2019 Honda CR-V 2.4L (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2017-2019 Honda CR-V 2.4L (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

๐Ÿ”ง CR-V - Water Pump Replacement

The water pump circulates coolant through your CR-Vโ€™s 2.4L engine. Replacement requires draining the coolant, removing the accessory drive belt and water-pump pulley, then installing the new pump and bleeding air from the cooling system.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


โš ๏ธ Safety & Precautions

  • โš ๏ธ Let the engine cool completely before opening the radiator cap. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
  • ๐Ÿงค Wear gloves and safety glasses. Honda coolant is poisonous and must be kept away from children and animals.
  • ๐Ÿš™ Support your CR-V with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
  • ๐Ÿ”‹ Battery disconnection is not required for this repair.
  • ๐Ÿงน Clean spilled coolant immediately and dispose of used coolant through an approved recycling facility.
  • โš™๏ธ Do not start the engine while the accessory drive belt is removed.

๐Ÿ”ง Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 19mm lug-nut socket
  • 10mm shallow socket
  • 12mm shallow socket
  • 19mm shallow socket
  • 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch-drive breaker bar
  • 3/8-inch-drive 3-inch extension
  • 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench (5-100 ft-lbs range)
  • Flat-blade trim-clip removal tool
  • Plastic gasket scraper
  • Nylon cleaning brush
  • Cooling-system funnel kit (specialty)
  • Large coolant drain pan (3-gallon minimum)
  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Shop towels

๐Ÿ”ฉ Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine water pump - Qty: 1
  • Water-pump gasket - Qty: 1
  • Honda-compatible Type 2 blue premixed coolant - Qty: 2 gallons
  • Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1 recommended

๐Ÿ“‹ Before You Begin

  • ๐Ÿ…ฟ๏ธ Park your CR-V on level ground, select Park, apply the parking brake, and switch off the engine.
  • ๐ŸงŠ Wait until the engine and radiator are completely cold.
  • ๐Ÿ›ž Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
  • ๐Ÿ“ฆ Compare the replacement pump and gasket with the original before installation.
  • ๐Ÿ’ง Use only Honda-compatible Type 2 blue coolant. It is already mixed 50/50 with distilled water; do not dilute it.
  • ๐Ÿ“ฑ No infotainment service mode, scan-tool command, battery registration, or programming is required.

๐Ÿ”จ Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front Corner

  • Use a 19mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch-drive breaker bar to loosen the right-front wheel nuts one-half turn.
  • Use the 2-ton floor jack at the designated front lifting point, then place a 2-ton jack stand beneath the right-front reinforced support point.
  • Remove the wheel with the 19mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet.
  • Gently shake the vehicle to verify that it is stable before working near the wheel opening.

Step 2: Remove the Right Splash Shield

  • Use the flat-blade trim-clip removal tool to release the plastic retainers from the right-front lower splash shield.
  • Use a 10mm socket, extension, and ratchet to remove any shield bolts.
  • Move the shield aside to expose the crankshaft pulley, accessory belt, and water-pump area.
  • A trim-clip tool lifts reusable plastic fasteners without damaging their heads.

Step 3: Drain the Engine Coolant

  • Remove the radiator cap by hand only after confirming that the upper radiator hose is cold and soft.
  • Position the 3-gallon drain pan beneath the radiator drain.
  • Open the plastic radiator drain plug by hand. Do not force it with pliers or a socket.
  • Allow the coolant to drain completely, then close the drain plug by hand until snug.
  • Do not overtighten the plastic drain plug.

Step 4: Loosen the Water-Pump Pulley Bolts

  • Locate the water-pump pulley on the passenger side of the engine.
  • While the belt still holds the pulley, use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to break the pulley bolts loose.
  • Loosen each bolt only about one turn. Do not remove them yet.
  • The installed belt keeps the pulley from spinning.

Step 5: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt

  • Note or photograph the belt routing before removal.
  • Place a 19mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive breaker bar on the automatic belt tensioner.
  • Rotate the tensioner against spring pressure, then slip the belt off the water-pump pulley.
  • Slowly release the tensioner. An automatic tensioner is the spring-loaded arm that maintains belt tension.
  • Remove the belt and inspect it for cracks, glazing, frayed edges, or coolant contamination. Replace it if any damage is present.

Step 6: Remove the Water-Pump Pulley

  • Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the previously loosened pulley bolts.
  • Support the pulley by hand as the final bolt is removed.
  • Slide the pulley straight off the water-pump hub and set it aside.

Step 7: Remove the Old Water Pump

  • Place the drain pan beneath the pump because additional coolant will escape.
  • Use the 10mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the water-pump mounting bolts.
  • Record each boltโ€™s location as it is removed because bolt lengths may differ.
  • Pull the pump straight away from the engine. Gently work it loose by hand if the gasket is stuck.
  • Do not pry against the aluminum sealing surface with a metal screwdriver.

Step 8: Clean and Inspect the Mounting Surface

  • Use the plastic gasket scraper and nylon cleaning brush to remove old gasket material.
  • Use shop towels to wipe the sealing surface clean and dry.
  • Keep debris out of the exposed coolant passage.
  • Inspect the surface for deep corrosion, cracks, or damage before continuing.
  • Do not apply silicone sealant unless the replacement pump manufacturer specifically requires it.

Step 9: Install the New Water Pump

  • Fit the new water-pump gasket in its correct position on the replacement pump.
  • Position the pump squarely against the engine without shifting or folding the gasket.
  • Install every mounting bolt by hand first, returning each bolt to its original location.
  • Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to tighten the bolts evenly in several passes.
  • Use the 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to tighten the water-pump mounting bolts to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the Pulley and Belt

  • Place the pulley on the new pump hub and start all pulley bolts by hand.
  • Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to tighten the bolts lightly and evenly.
  • Route the accessory belt around every pulley, leaving the easiest upper pulley until last.
  • Use the 19mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner, slip the belt into place, and slowly release the tensioner.
  • Verify that every belt rib is centered in its pulley groove.
  • Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to tighten the water-pump pulley bolts to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Refill and Bleed the Cooling System

  • Attach the cooling-system funnel kit to the radiator filler neck.
  • Slowly add Honda-compatible Type 2 blue premixed coolant until the radiator remains full.
  • Fill the coolant reservoir to the MAX line.
  • Set the cabin temperature to maximum heat and switch the blower to low.
  • Start the engine and let it idle with the funnel installed.
  • Add coolant as trapped air escapes and the level drops. Watch the temperature gauge continuously.
  • Briefly hold the engine near 1,500 rpm in short intervals until the radiator fan cycles at least twice and cabin heat remains consistently hot.
  • Stop the engine, allow it to cool completely, then top off the radiator and reservoir.
  • Remove the funnel and reinstall the radiator cap fully.

Step 12: Reassemble the Wheel Area

  • Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to reinstall the splash-shield bolts.
  • Use the flat-blade trim-clip removal tool by hand to reinstall the shield retainers.
  • Install the right-front wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use the floor jack to remove the jack stand, then lower your CR-V to the ground.
  • Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

โœ… After Repair

  • ๐Ÿ” Start the engine and inspect the pump gasket, radiator drain, and hose connections for leaks.
  • ๐ŸŒก๏ธ Confirm that the temperature gauge remains normal and that the heater produces steady hot air.
  • ๐Ÿ‘€ With the engine off, inspect the belt to confirm it remains centered on every pulley.
  • ๐ŸงŠ After the engine becomes completely cold, recheck the radiator and reservoir levels. Add compatible premixed coolant if needed.
  • ๐Ÿš— Take a short test drive, then inspect again for coolant leaks or abnormal belt noise.
  • โ™ป๏ธ Transfer used coolant into a sealed container and take it to an approved automotive-fluid recycling facility.

๐Ÿ’ฐ DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$860 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.


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