How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and coolant refill/bleeding tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and coolant refill/bleeding tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
š§ Grand Cherokee - Water Pump Replacement
The water pump circulates coolant through your A/C condenser, radiator, and engine. When it leaks or the bearing fails, you can overheat quicklyāso replacing it restores reliable cooling and prevents engine damage.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Never open the coolant cap on a hot engineāwait until fully cool.
- ā ļø Keep hands clear of the cooling fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
- ā ļø Support the SUV with jack stands if you go underneathānever rely on a jack.
- ā ļø Diesel cooling systems are sensitive to air pocketsārefill/bleed carefully to avoid overheating.
- ā ļø Battery disconnect is recommended to prevent the electric fan from running during the job.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 10-liter)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set
- Torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool
- Trim clip removal tool
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Gasket scraper
- Shop towels
- Brake cleaner spray
- No-spill coolant funnel kit (specialty)
- Cooling system vacuum fill tool (specialty)
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket / O-ring seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Mopar OAT, MS.90032 equivalent) - Qty: 2-3 gallons (premix) or equivalent mix volume
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 Replace if cracked or soaked
- Hose clamps - Qty: 1-2 If originals are weak
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally overnight).
- Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
- Place a drain pan under the radiator area.
- Take photos before removing connectors and hoses.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Raise the front safely with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the lower shield fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
Step 2: Drain the coolant
- Position the drain pan (at least 10-liter) under the radiator drain area.
- Open the radiator drain (or remove the lower radiator hose clamp) using flathead screwdriver or hose clamp pliers (specialty).
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap to vent, then let coolant drain fully.
Step 3: Remove the intake/upper covers for access
- Remove the engine cover by pulling upward firmly (itās press-fit).
- If any intake ducting blocks access, loosen clamps using an 8mm socket and move the ducting aside.
Step 4: Remove the cooling fan/shroud assembly (as needed for clearance)
- Unplug the fan electrical connector using a pick tool to lift the lock tab if needed.
- Remove shroud fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Lift the fan/shroud straight up and out carefully.
- If it snags, check for hidden clips.
Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt
- Note the belt routing (take a clear photo).
- Rotate the belt tensioner using a 15mm socket with a serpentine belt tool (specialty) (a long handle makes this much easier).
- Slide the belt off one pulley, then remove the belt fully.
Step 6: Disconnect hoses at the water pump
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move spring clamps back, or use a flathead screwdriver for worm clamps.
- Twist hoses gently to break them loose (donāt pry hard on plastic fittings).
- Expect some coolant spillākeep the drain pan positioned.
Step 7: Remove the water pump
- Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive extension set.
- Remove the pump from the front of the engine. If stuck, tap gently by handādo not gouge the mating surface.
- Clean the mating surface using a gasket scraper, then wipe with brake cleaner spray and shop towels.
Step 8: Install the new water pump
- Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new pump (confirm it sits flat and isnāt twisted).
- Position the pump and start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts evenly using a 13mm socket.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10-100 Nm range).
Step 9: Reconnect hoses and reinstall the serpentine belt
- Reconnect all hoses and reinstall clamps using hose clamp pliers (specialty) or flathead screwdriver.
- Route the belt correctly, then rotate the tensioner with a 15mm socket and serpentine belt tool (specialty) to slip the belt on.
- Visually confirm the belt is seated in every pulley groove.
Step 10: Reinstall the fan/shroud and splash shield
- Reinstall the fan/shroud and tighten fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) using a torque wrench (10-100 Nm range).
- Reconnect the fan electrical connector firmly.
- Reinstall the lower splash shield using 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
Step 11: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- If you have one, use a cooling system vacuum fill tool (specialty) to refillāthis helps prevent trapped air.
- If filling normally, use a no-spill coolant funnel kit (specialty) at the coolant reservoir.
- Fill with engine coolant (Mopar OAT, MS.90032 equivalent) to the correct level.
- Start the engine and let it idle while watching the temperature gauge.
- As it warms up, add coolant as the level drops. Turn the cabin heat to HOT to help purge air.
- Shut off, let it cool, then recheck and top off to the FULL COLD mark.
ā After Repair
- Start the engine and inspect for leaks around the water pump and hose connections.
- Verify the heater blows hot and the temperature gauge stays normal during a 10-15 minute test drive.
- After the first full cool-down, recheck coolant level and top off if needed.
- Check for any coolant smell or drips over the next 2-3 days.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ā¹18,000-ā¹35,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ā¹7,000-ā¹15,000 (parts only)
You Save: ā¹11,000-ā¹20,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ā¹800-ā¹2,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















