How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2014-2020 Chevrolet Impala 3.6L V6 (Trim: LT | Engine: V6 3.6L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2014-2020 Chevrolet Impala 3.6L V6 (Trim: LT | Engine: V6 3.6L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Impala - Water Pump Replacement
The water pump on your Impala is mounted on the passenger side of the 3.6L engine and driven by the accessory belt. Replacement requires draining the coolant, removing the belt and pump pulley, installing a new gasket and pump, then carefully refilling the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
Assumption: This procedure applies to the stock U.S.-market 3.6L V6 cooling system.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧊 Work only when the engine is completely cold. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- 🛑 Never open the coolant surge-tank cap while the cooling system is hot or pressurized.
- 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses because coolant is poisonous and irritating.
- 🐾 Collect every coolant spill immediately. Coolant is highly toxic to people and animals.
- 🔋 Disconnecting the battery is recommended because your hands will be near the accessory belt and pulleys.
- 🚫 Do not start the engine until the belt is correctly routed and all tools are removed.
- ♻️ Store drained coolant in a sealed container and take it to an approved recycling facility.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 7mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3-inch socket extension
- 6-inch socket extension
- Inch-pound torque wrench rated 50-250 in-lbs
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose-clamp pliers
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Nylon cleaning brush
- Coolant drain pan rated 15-quart minimum
- Cooling-system fill funnel (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Mechanic's gloves
- Safety glasses
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket - Qty: 1
- DEX-COOL-compatible 50/50 premixed coolant - Qty: 2 gallons
- Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1 if worn, cracked, glazed, or coolant-soaked
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Impala on level ground, select Park, apply the parking brake, and allow the engine to become completely cold.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear wheels.
- 🔑 Remove the key or move the keyless-start transmitter away from the vehicle.
- 🔋 Open the trunk, lift the right-side trim access panel, and disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket. Keep the cable isolated from the terminal.
- 📸 Photograph the accessory-belt routing before removal. A routing label may also be located under the hood.
- 🧪 Use only orange DEX-COOL-compatible coolant. Do not mix it with conventional green coolant.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle
- Place a 2-ton floor jack beneath the designated front-center lifting point and raise the vehicle enough to reach the lower splash shield.
- Position 2-ton jack stands beneath both front reinforced support points, then slowly lower the vehicle onto them.
- Push the vehicle gently to verify that it is stable before working underneath.
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Use a 7mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to remove the lower splash-shield screws and retainers.
- Lower the shield and place the fasteners in a container.
Step 3: Drain the Engine Coolant
- Place a 15-quart drain pan beneath the radiator drain fitting.
- Slowly loosen the coolant surge-tank cap to release any remaining pressure, then remove it.
- Open the radiator drain fitting carefully with a flat-blade screwdriver if required by its fitted design. Do not force the plastic fitting.
- Allow the coolant to drain until the flow stops, then close the fitting gently. The fitting seals when seated and should not be overtightened.
- Keep the drain pan centered; coolant may splash.
Step 4: Remove the Air Intake Duct
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 7mm socket to loosen the clamps on the air-cleaner outlet duct.
- Disconnect the attached breather connection by releasing its locking tabs by hand.
- Lift the duct away to improve access to the passenger side of the engine.
- Cover the exposed throttle-body opening with a clean shop towel.
Step 5: Loosen the Water Pump Pulley Bolts
- Before removing the belt, use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the water-pump pulley bolts approximately one turn.
- Leave the bolts installed. Belt tension helps hold the pulley while they are loosened.
- If the pulley turns, hold another pulley bolt with a second 10mm socket while loosening the selected bolt.
Step 6: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt
- Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar into the square opening on the automatic belt tensioner.
- An automatic tensioner is the spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
- Rotate the tensioner slowly to release belt tension, then slide the belt off the water-pump pulley.
- Slowly return the tensioner to its resting position. Do not allow it to snap back.
- Remove the belt and compare its routing with your photograph.
Step 7: Remove the Water Pump Pulley
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened pulley bolts.
- Support the pulley with one hand while removing the final bolt.
- Remove the pulley from the water-pump hub and set it aside.
Step 8: Remove the Old Water Pump
- Place the drain pan below the pump because additional coolant will escape.
- Use a 10mm socket with the required extension to remove the water-pump mounting bolts.
- Record each bolt position if their lengths differ. Each bolt must return to its original location.
- Pull the pump straight away from the engine. Tap it gently by hand if the gasket is stuck.
- Do not drive a metal screwdriver between the pump and engine because it can damage the aluminum sealing surface.
Step 9: Clean and Inspect the Mounting Surface
- Use a plastic gasket scraper and nylon cleaning brush to remove all gasket residue.
- Wipe the surface with clean shop towels until it is dry and smooth.
- Keep debris out of the open coolant passages.
- Inspect the pulley for cracks, bent edges, or damaged bolt holes. Replace it if damaged.
- A clean sealing surface prevents repeat coolant leaks.
Step 10: Install the New Water Pump
- Fit the new gasket to the new pump in its correct orientation. Install it dry unless the gasket supplier specifically directs otherwise.
- Position the pump against the engine without sliding the gasket out of place.
- Install every mounting bolt by hand for several turns to prevent cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the bolts gradually in an alternating pattern.
- Use an inch-pound torque wrench for the final pass: Torque the water-pump mounting bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Do not overtighten the bolts because the engine-side threads are aluminum.
Step 11: Reinstall the Water Pump Pulley
- Place the pulley over the pump hub and align its bolt holes.
- Start all pulley bolts by hand, then snug them evenly with a 10mm socket.
- Use an inch-pound torque wrench: Torque the water-pump pulley bolts to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
Step 12: Install the Accessory Drive Belt
- Route the belt around the crankshaft, alternator, air-conditioning compressor, idlers, and water-pump pulley exactly as shown in your photograph or underhood diagram.
- Leave the easiest smooth pulley until last.
- Use the 1/2-inch breaker bar to rotate the tensioner, slip the belt over the final pulley, and slowly release the tensioner.
- Use a flashlight to verify that every belt rib is fully seated in every grooved pulley.
- One misplaced rib can quickly destroy the belt.
Step 13: Reinstall the Air Intake Duct
- Remove the shop towel from the throttle-body opening.
- Refit the air-cleaner outlet duct and fully connect its breather fitting by hand.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 7mm socket to tighten the duct clamps until secure without crushing the plastic duct.
Step 14: Refill the Cooling System
- Confirm that the radiator drain fitting is closed.
- Install a cooling-system fill funnel in the surge-tank opening.
- Slowly add DEX-COOL-compatible 50/50 premixed coolant until the level reaches the cold-fill mark.
- Pause several times to allow trapped air to rise through the funnel.
- Squeeze the upper radiator hose gently by hand several times, then restore the coolant to the cold-fill mark.
Step 15: Reconnect the Battery and Bleed Air
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect and securely tighten the negative battery cable.
- Make sure the drain pan and all tools are clear of the belt, then start the engine.
- Set the climate controls to maximum heat and low blower speed.
- Let the engine idle while watching the coolant level and water-pump area. Add 50/50 coolant as the level drops, but never reach near the moving belt.
- Once the upper radiator hose becomes hot and cabin heat is steady, briefly hold approximately 2,000 rpm for 30 seconds, then return to idle.
- Shut the engine off if the temperature warning appears, the gauge rises abnormally, or cabin heat suddenly turns cold.
- When bubbling stops, switch off the engine, remove the funnel carefully, set the coolant at the cold-fill mark, and install the surge-tank cap.
Step 16: Reinstall the Splash Shield and Lower the Vehicle
- Use a 7mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to reinstall all lower splash-shield screws and retainers.
- Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly and remove both jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle completely and remove the wheel chocks.
✅ After Repair
- 🔍 Run the engine and inspect around the water pump, drain fitting, hoses, and surge tank for leakage.
- 👀 Observe the accessory belt from a safe distance. It should run centrally without wandering or wobbling.
- 🌡️ Confirm that the engine reaches normal temperature without overheating and that the heater produces steady warm air.
- 🧊 Allow the engine to cool completely, then recheck the surge-tank level and add 50/50 DEX-COOL to the cold-fill mark if needed.
- 🛣️ Take a short 10-minute drive while monitoring the temperature gauge, then perform another leak inspection after the engine cools.
- 📅 Recheck the coolant level for the next two or three cold starts because small air pockets may continue to escape.
- ♻️ Transfer old coolant into sealed containers for approved recycling. Never pour it onto the ground or into a drain.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,050, approximately ₹54,000-₹87,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $130-$280, approximately ₹11,000-₹23,000 (parts only)
You Save: $370-$920, approximately ₹31,000-₹76,000 by doing it yourself!
Local labor and imported-part prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.
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