How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2015 Ford Fusion
Step-by-step coolant hose replacement with tools/parts list, safety tips, refill & bleed instructions for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2015 Ford Fusion
Step-by-step coolant hose replacement with tools/parts list, safety tips, refill & bleed instructions for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Fusion - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. On your Fusion, there are typically two main radiator hoses: the upper (top of radiator to engine) and lower (bottom of radiator to engine/water pump area).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours
Assumption: Replacing engine-coolant radiator hose (not inverter coolant).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap when hot; wait until the system is fully cool.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; coolant is toxic and can burn skin.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before working underneath; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Hybrid precaution: stay clear of any orange cables; do not disturb them.
- ⚠️ Clean spills immediately; keep coolant away from kids and pets.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Pick tool
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 1/4-inch drive extension
- T25 Torx bit
- Shop rags
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
- Engine coolant (Motorcraft Orange OAT 50/50 or compatible) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧊 Park on level ground and let the engine cool completely (at least 2-3 hours).
- 🛑 Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🧼 Lay shop rags under the hose area; coolant will spill when the hose comes off.
- 🔑 Keep the key fob away from the car while working so it can’t power on unexpectedly.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front (for best access)
- Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front jack point.
- Place the car on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper support points.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips.
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove small bolts.
- If Torx screws are present, remove them with a T25 Torx bit.
Step 3: Relieve pressure and prepare to drain coolant
- Place a drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator area.
- Slowly loosen the coolant cap on the reservoir using your hand; stop if you hear pressure.
- If it hisses, tighten and wait longer.
Step 4: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level
- Keep the drain pan in place.
- If your radiator has a drain valve (petcock), open it carefully using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- If there’s no drain valve access, you can drain by loosening the lower radiator hose clamp (Step 6) and letting coolant drain into the pan.
Step 5: Identify which hose you’re replacing
- Upper radiator hose: runs from the top of the radiator to the engine area near the thermostat housing.
- Lower radiator hose: runs from the bottom of the radiator down to the engine/water pump area (best accessed from underneath).
- Do one hose at a time to avoid mix-ups.
Step 6: Release the hose clamps
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress and slide spring clamps back. A hose clamp pliers is a locking plier tool that squeezes spring clamps and holds them open.
- If you have worm-gear clamps (screw type), loosen them with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Position the clamp a few inches away from the hose end so it won’t interfere with removal.
Step 7: Remove the hose from the fitting
- Twist the hose by hand to break it free, then pull it off.
- If it’s stuck, use a pick tool to gently lift the hose edge and let air in (do not gouge the metal/plastic fitting).
- Catch draining coolant in the drain pan.
Step 8: Inspect and clean the fittings
- Wipe the radiator/engine fittings with shop rags.
- Make sure no old rubber is stuck to the fitting bead.
- Check for cracked plastic necks or heavy corrosion; don’t force a hose onto a damaged fitting.
Step 9: Install the new radiator hose
- Slide the clamps onto the new hose first (use hose clamp pliers (specialty) or your hands depending on clamp type).
- Push the hose fully onto the fitting until it seats against the stop/bead.
- Reposition the clamp over the fitting bead using hose clamp pliers (specialty) (spring clamp) or a flat-blade screwdriver (worm clamp).
Step 10: Reinstall the lower splash shield
- Reinstall screws/bolts using a T25 Torx bit and/or 8mm socket with a 1/4-inch drive ratchet.
- Reinstall clips using a trim clip removal tool to align them, then push them in by hand.
Step 11: Refill coolant
- Lower the car safely if you want easier filling (use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)).
- Use a funnel to fill the coolant reservoir with Engine coolant (Motorcraft Orange OAT 50/50 or compatible).
- If you’re mixing concentrate, use distilled water to make a 50/50 mix.
Step 12: Bleed air and verify circulation
- Start the car and set the climate control to heat (full hot) so coolant flows through the heater core.
- Let it idle and watch the coolant level; add coolant as the level drops using a funnel.
- Watch for leaks at both hose ends with a work light.
- When the engine warms up, you should feel the upper hose get hot as the thermostat opens.
- Shut off the car, let it cool, and recheck the level; top off as needed.
✅ After Repair
- 🔍 Inspect for leaks with the engine running and again after a full cool-down.
- 🌡️ Road test 10-15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge/overheat message.
- 🧴 Recheck coolant level the next morning (cold engine) and top off if needed.
- 🧹 Dispose of old coolant properly; do not pour it on the ground.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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