How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hose on a 2016 Honda Civic
Step-by-step cooling system hose swap with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hose on a 2016 Honda Civic
Step-by-step cooling system hose swap with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
🔧 Civic - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose means removing the old hose and clamps, installing a new hose, and refilling/bleeding the cooling system so it doesn’t overheat. On your Civic, there are two main hoses: the upper radiator hose (radiator to engine) and the lower radiator hose (radiator to engine inlet/water pump area).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: Stock cooling system; steps cover upper and lower hose options.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before going underneath (never rely on a jack).
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—keep away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers/tools clear of the cooling fan; it can turn on by itself.
- Battery disconnect is not required, but keep tools away from the battery terminals.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Channel-lock pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool (specialty)
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- Torque wrench (5–80 Nm range)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
- Honda Type 2 coolant (premixed 50/50) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (radiator hose should feel cool to the touch).
- Set your climate controls to Heat = HOT (this helps purge air later).
- Place a drain pan under the radiator area before loosening anything.
- Tip: Take a photo of hose routing first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the radiator cap (only when cold)
- Place a shop rag over the radiator cap.
- Press down and turn the cap slowly to the first stop to release any leftover pressure, then remove it fully by hand.
Step 2: Lift the front (needed for lower hose access)
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the front center jack point.
- Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) at the factory support points.
- Keep wheel chocks in place.
Step 3: Remove the lower engine splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove any bolts.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in a small pile.
Step 4: Drain enough coolant so the hose won’t gush
- Place the drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator drain.
- Open the drain plug by hand; if tight, use a flathead screwdriver gently.
- Drain about 1/2 to 1 gallon (until the coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing), then close the drain plug by hand snug.
- Tip: Don’t overtighten plastic drains.
Step 5: Remove the hose clamps
- For spring clamps: squeeze and slide the clamp back using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
- For worm-gear clamps: loosen with a flathead screwdriver.
- Hose clamp pliers: pliers that lock and keep tension on the clamp.
Step 6: Break the hose free (without breaking fittings)
- Twist the hose back and forth by hand to break the seal.
- If it’s stuck, use a pick tool (specialty) to gently lift the hose edge to let air in.
- Pull the hose off once it’s loose. Use shop rags to catch drips.
- Tip: Don’t pry hard on plastic necks.
Step 7A: Upper radiator hose install (radiator to engine)
- Compare the new hose to the old one (shape/length) before installing.
- Slide new clamps onto the hose first (use hose clamp pliers (specialty)).
- Push the hose fully onto the radiator neck and engine outlet until it bottoms out.
- Position clamps behind the bead (raised ridge) on each neck, then release/tighten clamps.
Step 7B: Lower radiator hose install (radiator to lower engine inlet)
- From underneath, route the new hose the same way as the old hose (avoid rubbing or sharp bends).
- Slide new clamps onto the hose first (use hose clamp pliers (specialty)).
- Push the hose fully onto the radiator outlet and engine inlet.
- Position clamps behind the bead (raised ridge) and secure them.
Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield
- Reinstall bolts with a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Reinstall clips using a trim clip removal tool to align, then press clips in by hand.
Step 9: Refill coolant
- Lower the car from jack stands using the floor jack.
- Use a funnel to slowly fill the radiator with Honda Type 2 coolant (premixed 50/50).
- Fill the overflow reservoir to the MAX line.
Step 10: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off.
- Turn cabin heat to HOT and fan to low.
- As the engine warms up, watch for air bubbles and add coolant as the level drops (use funnel).
- If your engine has a coolant air bleed bolt near the thermostat housing: crack it open with a 10mm socket just until coolant flows steadily, then close it. Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
- When the radiator fan cycles on and off and bubbles stop, install the radiator cap by hand.
- Tip: Keep fingers away from the fan.
Step 11: Final leak check
- With the engine idling, inspect both hose ends for seepage using a bright light (use shop rags to wipe and re-check).
- Shut the engine off and recheck the reservoir level after it cools; top off to MAX if needed.
✅ After Repair
- Test drive 10–15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge.
- After a full cool-down, recheck the coolant reservoir and add Honda Type 2 coolant if it dropped.
- Look under the car the next morning for any drips.
- If you smell coolant or see steam, stop driving and recheck clamp positions.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $110-$510 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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