How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse 3.6L V6
Step-by-step GM HFV6 timing setup with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque-spec guidance for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse 3.6L V6
Step-by-step GM HFV6 timing setup with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque-spec guidance for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Traverse - Timing Chain Replacement
Your Traverse’s 3.6L V6 uses a timing chain (not a timing belt). Replacing the timing chain set is a major job because you must open the front of the engine, set the engine to exact timing marks, and reseal the timing cover to prevent leaks.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-14 hours
Assumption: 2016 Traverse 3.6L uses the GM HFV6 timing chain system; verify torque specs with OEM service info for your exact engine RPO.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cold engine; hot coolant can burn.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ You must support the engine before removing the right-side engine mount.
- ⚠️ If timing is set wrong, the engine can be damaged on startup.
- ⚠️ Keep sealant out of the engine; excess RTV can clog oil passages.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
- Funnel
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 Nm range)
- Socket set (8mm-24mm)
- Torx socket set (E10-E14)
- Torx bit set (T30-T50)
- Extensions (3", 6", 12")
- Serpentine belt tool (15mm)
- Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer installer (specialty)
- Camshaft holding/locking tool set for GM 3.6L (specialty)
- Pry bar
- Trim clip remover
- Gasket scraper (plastic)
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit (primary chain, secondary chains, guides, tensioners) - Qty: 1
- Timing cover sealant (RTV, OEM-spec) - Qty: 1
- Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft balancer bolt (torque-to-yield) - Qty: 1
- Engine oil (dexos, correct viscosity) - Qty: 6 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (DEX-COOL compatible) - Qty: 2-3 gallons (mix as required)
- Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
- Water pump (recommended while accessible) - Qty: 1
- Thermostat gasket/O-ring (if disturbed) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- 🛠️ Plan for sealing time: RTV needs a short “skin time” before assembly (follow the sealant label).
- 📌 Learn two terms: TDC means “top dead center” (piston at the top), and TTY bolt means “torque-to-yield” (one-time-use stretch bolt).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the right front and remove the wheel/splash shield
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the right front wheel using a 19mm socket.
- Remove the right inner fender/splash shield fasteners using a trim clip remover and 7mm socket.
Step 2: Drain coolant and drain engine oil
- Place a drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the radiator drain; open it by hand or with pliers if needed.
- Drain the engine oil using a 15mm socket for the drain plug.
- Remove the oil filter by hand; keep the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under it.
Step 3: Remove the serpentine belt
- Rotate the tensioner with a serpentine belt tool (15mm) and slip the belt off.
- Tip: Take a photo of belt routing.
Step 4: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount
- Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and lightly tension it.
- Remove mount fasteners using socket set (8mm-24mm) and Torx socket set (E10-E14) as equipped.
- For reassembly, tighten mount hardware to Torque to OEM specification (varies by fastener type/location).
Step 5: Remove the crankshaft balancer (harmonic balancer)
- Remove the balancer bolt using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and correct socket from your socket set (8mm-24mm).
- Use a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) to pull the balancer straight off.
- Do not pry against the timing cover sealing surface; use the puller only.
Step 6: Remove the front timing cover
- Remove any obstructing brackets/pulleys using socket set (8mm-24mm) and Torx bit set (T30-T50).
- Remove timing cover bolts using socket set (8mm-24mm) and extensions (3", 6", 12").
- Carefully separate the cover using a pry bar only at designated pry points.
Step 7: Set cylinder #1 to TDC and lock the camshafts
- Rotate the engine by hand at the crank using a socket from your socket set (8mm-24mm) until timing marks align at TDC.
- Install the camshaft holding/locking tool set for GM 3.6L (specialty). This tool keeps cams from snapping out of position under valve spring pressure.
- Mark current chain-to-sprocket positions with a paint marker for a backup reference.
Step 8: Remove tensioners, guides, and timing chains
- Remove timing chain tensioners using socket set (8mm-24mm).
- Remove chain guides using socket set (8mm-24mm) and Torx bit set (T30-T50) as equipped.
- Remove the primary and secondary chains and keep track of which side they came from.
Step 9: Install new chains, guides, and tensioners (critical timing step)
- Install new guides using socket set (8mm-24mm); tighten to Torque to OEM specification.
- Install the new chains aligning the colored links to the sprocket timing marks (follow the kit/OEM diagram exactly).
- Install new tensioners using socket set (8mm-24mm); tighten to Torque to OEM specification.
- Release/arm the tensioners per kit instructions so they take up slack.
- Tip: If marks don’t line up, stop and reset.
Step 10: Verify timing by rotating the engine by hand
- Remove the cam holding tools only when instructed by the tool kit directions.
- Rotate the engine clockwise by hand two full turns using a socket from your socket set (8mm-24mm).
- Re-check timing marks alignment; if anything is off, do not proceed.
Step 11: Reseal and reinstall the timing cover
- Clean mating surfaces using a gasket scraper (plastic), brake cleaner spray, and shop towels.
- Install a new front crankshaft seal into the cover if not pre-installed (tap evenly by hand pressure; avoid distortion).
- Apply timing cover sealant (RTV, OEM-spec) in the OEM bead pattern, especially at seam joints.
- Install the timing cover and hand-start all bolts, then tighten evenly using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 Nm range) to Torque to OEM specification.
Step 12: Reinstall harmonic balancer with new bolt
- Press the balancer on using a harmonic balancer installer (specialty) (do not hammer it on).
- Install a new crankshaft balancer bolt (torque-to-yield) and tighten using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 Nm range).
- Typical GM HFV6 procedure is an initial torque plus angle turn; set to Torque to OEM specification for your exact engine.
Step 13: Reinstall engine mount, belt, shields, and wheel
- Reinstall the right engine mount using socket set (8mm-24mm) and tighten to Torque to OEM specification.
- Install the new belt using the serpentine belt tool (15mm).
- Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip remover and 7mm socket.
- Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket and tighten lug nuts to Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Refill fluids
- Install a new oil filter hand-tight, then add engine oil using a funnel.
- Refill coolant with DEX-COOL compatible coolant using a funnel.
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Start the engine and let it idle; listen for abnormal rattling (a brief initial tensioner fill can be normal, but loud/ongoing noise is not).
- 🛑 Check for oil leaks at the timing cover and crank seal area.
- 🌡️ Bring the engine to operating temperature and confirm the heater blows hot; top off coolant after it cools down.
- 🔎 Recheck engine oil level after the first short test drive.
- 🧰 If the check-engine light turns on, have codes scanned and address immediately before driving further.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1800-$3500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $1450-$2600 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-14 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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