How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2016 Chevrolet Malibu 1.5L Turbo
Step-by-step instructions, required tools/parts, timing mark tips, and key torque spec notes for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2016 Chevrolet Malibu 1.5L Turbo
Step-by-step instructions, required tools/parts, timing mark tips, and key torque spec notes for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Malibu - Timing Chain Replacement
Your Malibu’s 1.5L turbo engine uses a timing chain, not a timing belt. Replacing the chain is a big job because the front cover has to come off and the engine must be supported while the right-side mount is removed.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours
Assumption: Stock 1.5L turbo (timing chain) layout.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cold engine; hot coolant and oil can burn.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental cranking.
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the right engine mount (the engine can drop).
- ⚠️ Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers clear when releasing the chain tensioner (spring-loaded).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Metric socket set 8mm-21mm
- Deep socket set 10mm-18mm
- Metric wrench set 10mm-18mm
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8" (10-100 Nm range)
- Torque wrench 1/2" (50-250 Nm range)
- Torque angle gauge (specialty)
- E-Torx socket set (E10-E18)
- Torx bit set (T20-T50)
- Flat trim clip tool
- Serpentine belt tool 3/8"
- Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Plastic razor scraper
- Brake cleaner spray
- Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
- Funnel
- Paint marker
- Camshaft holding/locking tool set (specialty)
- Crankshaft locking pin tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit (chain + guides + tensioner) - Qty: 1
- Front cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft balancer bolt (single-use) - Qty: 1
- GM-approved RTV sealant (timing cover/corner joints) - Qty: 1
- Engine oil (dexos, correct viscosity for your Malibu) - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Coolant (DEX-COOL compatible, pre-mix or concentrate) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket on the negative terminal and isolate the cable.
- Raise the right-front corner with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
- Place a drain pan under the radiator area and be ready for coolant and oil drips.
- Take photos as you go.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the right-front wheel and splash shields
- Use a lug wrench (or 19mm socket) to remove the wheel.
- Remove the inner fender liner/splash shield using a trim clip tool and 7mm/10mm socket (fasteners vary by location).
Step 2: Drain coolant (and plan for an oil change)
- Use pliers or a screwdriver (as applicable) and a drain pan to drain coolant from the radiator drain or lower hose.
- Plan to change the oil after reassembly (front cover work can contaminate oil with debris/solvent).
Step 3: Support the engine
- Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and lightly tension it to hold the engine.
- This prevents engine drop when the mount comes off.
Step 4: Remove the right engine mount
- Use a metric socket set and E-Torx sockets to remove the mount-to-body and mount-to-engine fasteners.
- Keep bolts grouped by location (some lengths differ).
- Torque to factory specification during reassembly (mount fasteners are critical).
Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool 3/8" to rotate the tensioner and slide the belt off.
- Use a paint marker to mark belt direction if you plan to reuse it (best practice is replace if worn).
Step 6: Remove the crankshaft balancer (harmonic balancer)
- Use a breaker bar 1/2" with the correct socket to loosen the crank bolt.
- Remove the balancer using a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty).
- Do not pry against the timing cover sealing surfaces.
Step 7: Remove components blocking the front cover
- Remove the upper engine cover and any intake ducting as needed using a socket set and screwdriver.
- Remove the valve cover using a socket set and/or Torx bits (fastener style varies by position).
- Torque to factory specification during reassembly (valve cover fasteners are low-torque; over-tightening can crack the cover).
Step 8: Set cylinder #1 to Top Dead Center (TDC) on compression
- Rotate the engine by hand using a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft (clockwise only).
- Align the timing marks per the chain/gears. Use a paint marker to add your own reference marks.
- Install the crankshaft locking pin tool (specialty) and camshaft holding/locking tools (specialty) if your kit includes them. A holding tool keeps the cams from snapping when tension is removed.
Step 9: Remove the front timing cover
- Remove front cover bolts using metric sockets and E-Torx sockets.
- Gently separate the cover. Use a plastic razor scraper only—no metal screwdriver prying on sealing faces.
- Clean sealing surfaces with brake cleaner spray and a plastic razor scraper until dry and smooth.
Step 10: Remove the timing chain, guides, and tensioner
- Remove the tensioner using the correct socket. The tensioner is spring-loaded (it pushes on the guide).
- Remove chain guides using a socket set.
- Slide the timing chain off the sprockets carefully.
Step 11: Install the new chain kit and verify timing marks
- Install new guides and tensioner from the timing chain kit using a torque wrench.
- Install the new chain with colored links aligned to the sprocket timing marks (common on timing sets).
- Release/activate the new tensioner per kit instructions (some use a retaining pin you pull).
- Rotate the engine by hand two full turns using a breaker bar, then re-check timing marks alignment.
- If marks don’t line up, stop and correct.
Step 12: Reinstall front cover with correct sealant application
- Install a new crankshaft front oil seal (often pressed into the cover) using a suitable driver from your puller kit or a seal installer.
- Apply GM-approved RTV sealant only at the specified joints (typically where the cover meets the oil pan and cylinder head corners).
- Install the cover and hand-start all bolts, then tighten evenly using a torque wrench.
- Torque to factory specification (front cover bolts are different sizes and have different specs).
Step 13: Reinstall crankshaft balancer and use a NEW crank bolt
- Install the balancer straight onto the crank snout (do not hammer it on).
- Install a new crankshaft balancer bolt (single-use) and tighten using a torque wrench 1/2" and torque angle gauge (specialty).
- Torque to factory specification (this is typically a torque-plus-angle “stretch bolt” procedure).
Step 14: Reassemble valve cover, mount, belt, shields, and wheel
- Install the valve cover with a new valve cover gasket using a torque wrench and tighten evenly.
- Reinstall the right engine mount using metric sockets and E-Torx sockets. Torque to factory specification.
- Reinstall the serpentine belt using the serpentine belt tool 3/8".
- Reinstall splash shields with a trim clip tool and 7mm/10mm socket.
- Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket. Torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Refill fluids and reconnect the battery
- Refill coolant using a funnel with DEX-COOL compatible coolant.
- Change oil and filter using the correct socket and oil filter wrench if needed.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for abnormal rattling at the front cover area.
- Check for oil leaks around the timing cover and crank seal.
- Bring the engine to operating temperature and confirm the heater blows hot (helps confirm coolant circulation).
- Recheck coolant level after the first full heat-soak and top off as needed.
- Any MIL light? Scan before driving far.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $950-$1,750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-10 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















