🔧 Tucson - Timing Component Replacement

Your Tucson does not use a timing belt. The 2.0L gasoline engine uses a timing chain, which is inside the engine and is not a routine maintenance item like a belt.

This repair covers timing chain replacement. It is only normally done if there is chain stretch, timing-related fault codes, rattle on startup, guide failure, or internal engine repair.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ This is an advanced internal engine repair. Incorrect timing can cause engine damage.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting to prevent accidental cranking.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the right-side engine mount.
• ⚠️ Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts independently after the chain is removed.
• ⚠️ Work only on a completely cool engine to avoid burns from coolant, oil, and exhaust parts.
• ⚠️ Keep the work area very clean. Dirt inside the engine can cause serious damage.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Metric socket set 8mm-22mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 22mm socket
• Socket extensions 3-inch and 6-inch
• Serpentine belt tool
• Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Plastic trim clip remover
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Gasket scraper plastic
• Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
• Funnel
• Paint marker
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain - Qty: 1
• Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
• Timing chain guide set - Qty: 1
• Front timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts - Qty: 1 set
• Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
• RTV engine sealant - Qty: 1 tube
• Engine oil 5W-20 synthetic blend or full synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Coolant concentrate or premixed compatible coolant - Qty: As needed
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are blocks that stop the vehicle from rolling.
• Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system or removing covers.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and jack stands rated 3-ton minimum if raising the front of the vehicle.
• Take photos before removing hoses, brackets, and connectors. This helps during reassembly.
• Mark bolts by location. Hyundai uses different bolt lengths on the timing cover.
• Assumption: This procedure is for the 2.0L gasoline timing chain system, not a timing belt.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect Battery and Remove Upper Covers

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal and move the cable aside.
• Pull the plastic engine cover upward by hand to release it from its rubber mounts.
• Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves before working around oil and coolant.
• Take photos before unplugging connectors.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tucson at the front lift point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove the right front splash shield clips.

Step 3: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant

• Place a drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the engine oil drain plug.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil.
• Reinstall the drain plug with a 17mm socket and torque to 39-44 Nm (29-32 ft-lbs).
• Move the drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the radiator drain area and drain the coolant as needed.
• Use shop towels to clean spills right away.

Step 4: Remove the Serpentine Belt

• Use a serpentine belt tool to rotate the belt tensioner and release belt tension. A tensioner is a spring-loaded pulley that keeps the belt tight.
• Slide the belt off the pulleys by hand.
• Inspect the belt path before removal or take a photo.
• Replace the belt if cracked, glazed, noisy, or oil-soaked.

Step 5: Support the Engine

• Install an engine support bar across the upper engine bay. An engine support bar holds the engine from above when a mount is removed.
• Lightly tension the support bar until the engine weight is supported.
• Do not lift the engine hard. Just support it.

Step 6: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the right-side engine mount fasteners.
• Remove the mount and bracket from the timing cover area.
• Keep the bolts organized by location.
• During reassembly, install new mount bolts and torque mount-to-body bolts to 59-73 Nm (44-54 ft-lbs).
• During reassembly, torque mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 78-98 Nm (58-72 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Remove the Valve Cover

• Unplug ignition coil connectors by hand and move the harness aside.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts, then pull the coils straight up.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove valve cover bolts.
• Lift the valve cover off carefully. If stuck, use a plastic trim clip remover to gently work the edge loose.
• Do not pry against the aluminum sealing surfaces with metal tools.
• During reassembly, torque valve cover bolts to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).

Step 8: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley

• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
• Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the crankshaft pulley. A harmonic balancer puller safely pulls the crank pulley without damaging it.
• Discard the crankshaft pulley bolt if it is a torque-to-yield style replacement bolt supplied in the kit.
• During reassembly, use the new bolt and follow the bolt instructions supplied with the part kit if provided.

Step 9: Remove the Front Timing Cover

• Use 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to remove the timing cover bolts.
• Note bolt length and location. Some bolts are longer than others.
• Use a plastic gasket scraper to carefully separate the cover from the engine.
• Do not gouge the aluminum engine block or cover.
• Clean old RTV sealant with a plastic gasket scraper and shop towels.

Step 10: Set Engine to Top Dead Center

• Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt location to rotate the engine clockwise only.
• Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks to the factory timing positions.
• Top Dead Center means cylinder number 1 is at the top of its compression stroke.
• Use a paint marker to mark the current chain-to-sprocket positions before removal.
• Clockwise only prevents chain slack errors.

Step 11: Remove Timing Chain Tensioner and Guides

• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
• Remove the chain guides using the matching 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• A guide is a plastic-faced rail that keeps the chain running straight.
• Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after the tensioner and chain are loose.

Step 12: Remove the Timing Chain

• Lift the timing chain off the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket by hand.
• Compare the old chain to the new chain on a clean work surface.
• Make sure the new timing chain has the same number of links and marked links.

Step 13: Install the New Timing Chain

• Place the new chain over the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprockets by hand.
• Align the colored chain links with the timing marks on the sprockets.
• Use the paint marker only as a helper mark, not as a replacement for factory timing marks.
• Confirm the chain is tight on the non-tensioner side before installing the tensioner.

Step 14: Install New Guides and Tensioner

• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to install the new timing chain guides.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to torque guide bolts to 10-12 Nm (89-106 in-lbs).
• Install the new timing chain tensioner with a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to torque tensioner bolts to 10-12 Nm (89-106 in-lbs).
• Release the tensioner pin only after the chain and guides are correctly installed.

Step 15: Verify Timing by Hand

• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the engine clockwise two full turns.
• Stop if you feel a hard lock. Do not force it.
• Recheck that the timing marks return to the correct positions.
• If timing marks do not line up correctly, remove the tensioner and reset the chain.

Step 16: Reseal and Install the Timing Cover

• Use a plastic gasket scraper and shop towels to clean the timing cover and engine sealing surfaces.
• Apply RTV engine sealant in the original bead pattern around the cover.
• Install a new crankshaft front oil seal into the cover if not preinstalled.
• Set the timing cover in place without smearing the sealant.
• Use a 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to install cover bolts finger-tight first.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to torque small timing cover bolts to 9-11 Nm (80-97 in-lbs).
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to torque larger timing cover bolts to 18-25 Nm (13-18 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Reinstall Crankshaft Pulley

• Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft by hand.
• Install the new crankshaft pulley bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt.
• If your replacement bolt includes a specific angle-tighten instruction, follow the bolt kit instructions exactly.

Step 18: Reinstall Valve Cover and Engine Mount

• Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover by hand.
• Use a 10mm socket to install the valve cover bolts.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench and torque valve cover bolts to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
• Reinstall ignition coils with a 10mm socket and torque coil bolts to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to reinstall the right engine mount and bracket.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and torque mount-to-body bolts to 59-73 Nm (44-54 ft-lbs).
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and torque mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 78-98 Nm (58-72 ft-lbs).

Step 19: Install Serpentine Belt and Splash Shield

• Route the new serpentine belt over the pulleys using your photo or belt routing diagram.
• Use the serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt onto the final pulley.
• Confirm the belt ribs sit fully in every pulley groove.
• Use a plastic trim clip remover by hand to reinstall the right splash shield clips.

Step 20: Refill Oil and Coolant

• Install a new oil filter by hand until snug, then tighten according to the filter instructions.
• Use a funnel to add the correct amount of 5W-20 engine oil.
• Use a funnel to refill the cooling system with compatible coolant.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.

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✅ After Repair

• Before starting, crank the engine briefly and listen for abnormal knocking or binding.
• Start the engine and let it idle. It may rattle briefly while oil pressure builds, but it should quiet quickly.
• Check for oil leaks around the valve cover, timing cover, oil filter, and drain plug.
• Check for coolant leaks and monitor coolant level as air bleeds out.
• Watch the temperature gauge during warm-up. Shut the engine off if it overheats.
• After the first test drive, recheck oil level, coolant level, and all visible sealing areas.
• If the check engine light comes on, scan for timing or cam/crank correlation codes before driving further.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $1,000-$1,750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.

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