How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2015-2019 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost estimates for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2015-2019 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost estimates for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 F-150 - Timing Chain Service
Your F-150’s 5.0L V8 does not use a timing belt. It uses internal timing chains, which normally are not routine-maintenance items like a belt.
Replacement is only done when there is a confirmed issue such as chain rattle, worn guides, failed tensioners, cam/crank correlation codes, or internal timing damage.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 10-16 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before beginning.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or removing front-engine parts.
- ⚠️ Incorrect timing chain installation can cause severe engine damage.
- ⚠️ Do not crank the engine with timing components removed.
- ⚠️ Do not rotate camshafts or the crankshaft separately unless the timing procedure calls for it.
- ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands if raised. Never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- Metric socket extension set
- Metric wrench set
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/4-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Crankshaft holding tool (specialty)
- Camshaft holding tool set (specialty)
- Timing chain wedge tool (specialty)
- Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Plastic trim clip removal tool
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Drain pan 3-gallon minimum
- Cooling system vacuum fill tool (specialty)
- OBD-II scan tool
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Timing chain tensioners - Qty: 1 set
- Crankshaft sprocket - Qty: 1
- Camshaft phaser bolts - Qty: 4
- Front timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gaskets - Qty: 2
- Water pump gasket - Qty: 1
- Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
- Engine oil 5W-20 synthetic blend or full synthetic - Qty: 8 quarts
- Orange-compatible engine coolant - Qty: As needed
- RTV silicone sealant engine-safe - Qty: 1 tube
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your F-150 on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🧊 Let the engine cool completely.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- 📸 Take photos of hose routing, wiring connectors, and bracket positions before removal.
- 🏷️ Label connectors with tape if this is your first major engine repair.
- 🔧 A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact force so parts are not loose or over-tightened.
- 🔧 A harmonic balancer puller removes the crank pulley without prying or cracking parts.
- 🔧 A camshaft holding tool keeps the camshafts from moving while the chains are off.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Verify the Repair Need
- Use an OBD-II scan tool to check for camshaft/crankshaft timing codes.
- Look for symptoms such as cold-start chain rattle, rough idle, poor power, or timing correlation codes.
- If your F-150 is running normally, there is no timing belt to replace as routine maintenance.
- Chains are repaired only when faulty.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal nut.
- Remove the negative cable from the battery post.
- Position the cable where it cannot spring back and touch the post.
Step 3: Raise and Support the Front If Needed
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of the truck if extra access is needed.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front frame support points.
- Gently lower the truck onto the jack stands.
- Keep wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
Step 4: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant
- Place a drain pan 3-gallon minimum under the oil pan.
- Use the correct socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the engine oil drain plug.
- Let the oil drain completely.
- Reinstall the drain plug with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
- Move the drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Drain the coolant only after the engine is cold.
Step 5: Remove Air Intake Parts
- Use an 8mm socket to loosen the air intake tube clamps.
- Unplug the mass airflow sensor connector by pressing the lock tab.
- Lift the intake tube and air ducting out of the way.
Step 6: Remove Fan Shroud and Front Covers
- Use a plastic trim clip removal tool to remove the push clips.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove shroud fasteners.
- Unplug the cooling fan connector by pressing the release tab.
- Lift the fan shroud assembly straight up and out carefully.
Step 7: Remove the Serpentine Belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys.
- Take a photo of the belt path before fully removing it.
- Photos prevent routing mistakes.
Step 8: Remove Front Accessories and Brackets
- Use 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets to remove front-engine brackets blocking the timing cover.
- Move wiring harnesses aside gently by hand.
- Use the fuel line disconnect tool set only if a fuel line must be moved for valve cover access.
- Keep dirt out of any opened fuel connection.
Step 9: Remove Ignition Coils and Valve Covers
- Press each ignition coil connector tab and unplug the connectors by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts.
- Pull the ignition coils straight up.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove valve cover bolts.
- Lift both valve covers off carefully.
- Remove the old valve cover gaskets by hand.
Step 10: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Install the crankshaft holding tool to keep the crankshaft from turning.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and proper socket to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller to pull the crankshaft pulley straight off.
- Do not pry between the pulley and timing cover.
- Prying can crack aluminum parts.
Step 11: Remove the Timing Cover
- Use 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets to remove timing cover bolts.
- Lay bolts out in order so each one returns to its original location.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to carefully break the seal.
- Remove the timing cover from the front of the engine.
Step 12: Set Engine Timing Position
- Use a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft to rotate the engine clockwise by hand.
- Align the factory timing marks before removing chains.
- Install the camshaft holding tool set to lock the camshafts.
- Install the crankshaft holding tool as needed.
- Never use the starter motor here.
Step 13: Remove Timing Chain Tensioners and Guides
- Use a 10mm socket to remove timing chain tensioner bolts.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove timing chain guide bolts.
- Remove the guides and tensioners.
- Keep left-side and right-side parts separated.
Step 14: Remove Timing Chains
- Keep the camshaft holding tool installed.
- Slip each timing chain off the cam phasers and crank sprocket.
- If removing cam phaser bolts, use the correct socket while the camshafts are held with the camshaft holding tool.
- Do not let the camshafts snap rotate.
Step 15: Install New Timing Chains
- Install the new crankshaft sprocket if supplied in the timing chain kit.
- Place the colored timing chain links on the timing marks of the crank sprocket and cam phasers.
- Use a 10mm socket to install new timing chain guides.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Use a 10mm socket to install new timing chain tensioners.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 16: Release Tensioners and Recheck Timing
- Pull the tensioner retaining pins by hand.
- Use a socket and ratchet to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns by hand.
- Stop immediately if the engine locks or feels like it hits a hard stop.
- Recheck timing mark alignment.
- If marks are wrong, remove and reset the chains before reassembly.
Step 17: Clean Sealing Surfaces
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old gasket and RTV from the timing cover and engine block.
- Do not gouge the metal sealing surfaces.
- Wipe surfaces clean with a lint-free cloth.
- Install the new front crankshaft seal into the timing cover.
Step 18: Reinstall the Timing Cover
- Apply engine-safe RTV silicone sealant only at factory joint corners.
- Install the new front timing cover gasket set.
- Place the timing cover straight onto the engine.
- Use 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets to install bolts finger-tight first.
- Tighten cover bolts in a center-out pattern with a torque wrench.
- Torque small bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Torque larger bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 19: Reinstall the Crankshaft Pulley
- Lightly oil the front crankshaft seal lip with clean engine oil.
- Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft by hand.
- Use the crankshaft holding tool to keep the crankshaft still.
- Use the correct socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Torque using the Ford procedure supplied for the replacement crankshaft bolt.
Step 20: Reinstall Valve Covers and Ignition Coils
- Install new valve cover gaskets by hand.
- Place each valve cover onto the cylinder head.
- Use an 8mm socket to install valve cover bolts.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Install ignition coils with an 8mm socket.
- Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).
- Reconnect each ignition coil connector by hand until it clicks.
Step 21: Reinstall Accessories, Belt, and Fan Shroud
- Use 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets to reinstall removed brackets and accessories.
- Use the serpentine belt tool to route the serpentine belt over the pulleys.
- Confirm the belt ribs sit fully in each pulley groove.
- Use a 10mm socket and plastic trim clip removal tool to reinstall the fan shroud and clips.
- Reconnect the cooling fan electrical connector by hand.
Step 22: Refill Fluids
- Install a new engine oil filter by hand until snug.
- Add 5W-20 engine oil through the oil fill opening.
- Use a cooling system vacuum fill tool to refill the cooling system with orange-compatible coolant.
- If filling without a vacuum tool, fill slowly and allow air to bleed out as the engine warms.
Step 23: Reconnect Battery and Start Engine
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Watch for the oil pressure light to turn off quickly.
- Listen for abnormal chain noise.
- Check for oil and coolant leaks.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Use an OBD-II scan tool to clear stored timing-related codes.
- ✅ Let the engine reach normal operating temperature while checking for leaks.
- ✅ Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes, then recheck engine oil level.
- ✅ After the engine cools completely, recheck coolant level.
- ✅ Road test gently for 10-15 minutes.
- ✅ If timing codes return or the engine rattles, stop driving and recheck mechanical timing.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $2,200-$4,000+ (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts only)
You Save: $1,000-$2,800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 10-16 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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