How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2015-2019 Chevrolet Colorado 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step guide with timing tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2015-2019 Chevrolet Colorado 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step guide with timing tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Colorado - Timing Drive Inspection
Your Colorado does not use a timing belt. The 2.5L inline-4 engine uses an internal timing chain, which is designed to last much longer than a belt and is lubricated by engine oil.
Because this is a timing chain system, there is no normal “timing belt replacement” service. Timing chain replacement is only done if there is a confirmed fault such as chain stretch, guide failure, tensioner failure, engine rattle, or timing-related trouble codes.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ This repair can cause serious engine damage if camshaft or crankshaft timing is set incorrectly.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator, or front engine harness.
- ⚠️ Support your Colorado safely if lifting it. Never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before removing coolant hoses or front engine covers.
- ⚠️ The timing chain is inside the engine. Dirt or dropped hardware can damage internal parts.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 24mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- Serpentine belt tool
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Crankshaft holding tool (specialty)
- Camshaft alignment tool (specialty)
- Crankshaft alignment pin (specialty)
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Pick tool set
- Gasket scraper
- Drain pan 10-quart minimum
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
- Front timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
- Engine oil 5W-30 full synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant Dex-Cool compatible - Qty: As needed
- RTV engine sealant - Qty: 1 tube
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Colorado on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧊 Let the engine cool completely before starting.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
- 📌 A timing chain keeps the crankshaft and camshafts synchronized so the valves and pistons move at the correct time.
- 📌 A harmonic balancer puller is a tool that removes the front crankshaft pulley without damaging it.
- 📌 Camshaft and crankshaft alignment tools lock the engine in the correct timed position during repair.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Verify This Repair Is Needed
- Use a scan tool if available to check for timing-related codes such as camshaft/crankshaft correlation faults.
- Listen for a cold-start rattle from the front of the engine using safety glasses and gloves.
- If there are no timing faults, no chain noise, and no drivability symptoms, replacement is usually not needed.
- Do not replace a good chain.
Step 2: Raise and Secure the Front
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Colorado at the proper front lift point.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame support points.
- Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
- Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
Step 3: Remove the Engine Appearance Cover and Intake Duct
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any fasteners holding the engine cover if equipped.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake duct clamps.
- Remove the duct and set it aside.
Step 4: Drain Fluids
- Place a 10-quart drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Use gloves and open the coolant drain carefully if coolant hoses or the front cover area must be removed.
- Use a 15mm socket to remove the oil drain plug if you are changing oil during the repair.
- Reinstall the oil drain plug and torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the Serpentine Belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner slowly to release belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
- Take a belt routing photo first.
Step 6: Remove Front Accessories as Needed
- Use 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets to remove brackets and accessories blocking the front timing cover.
- Move wiring harnesses aside gently using a plastic trim clip remover.
- Do not pull on wires. Release clips first with a pick tool if needed.
Step 7: Remove the Valve Cover
- Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil fasteners and valve cover bolts.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to release harness clips from the cover.
- Lift the valve cover straight up.
- Remove the old valve cover gasket by hand or with a pick tool.
Step 8: Set Cylinder 1 at Top Dead Center
- Use a 24mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Rotate the engine clockwise only until cylinder 1 is at top dead center.
- Top dead center means piston 1 is at the very top of its travel on the compression stroke.
- Install the crankshaft alignment pin and camshaft alignment tool according to the tool markings.
- Timing marks must line up exactly.
Step 9: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Use a crankshaft holding tool to keep the crankshaft from turning.
- Use a 24mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Remove the bolt and discard it if the replacement kit includes a new torque-to-yield bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the crankshaft pulley.
Step 10: Remove the Front Timing Cover
- Use 10mm and 13mm sockets to remove all front timing cover bolts.
- Use a pick tool to check for hidden bolts around brackets and lower cover areas.
- Gently separate the cover using a gasket scraper at safe pry points only.
- Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.
Step 11: Remove the Timing Chain Tensioner and Guides
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
- Use a 10mm or 13mm socket to remove the timing chain guide bolts.
- Remove the guides and tensioner.
- Keep the camshaft alignment tool installed so timing does not move.
Step 12: Remove the Timing Chain
- Use your hands to slide the timing chain off the sprockets.
- If the chain is tight, recheck that the tensioner is fully removed.
- Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after the chain is removed.
Step 13: Install the New Timing Chain
- Use the colored chain links to match the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.
- Install the new chain by hand over the sprockets.
- Use the camshaft alignment tool and crankshaft alignment pin to confirm everything remains locked in position.
- One tooth off is too much.
Step 14: Install New Guides and Tensioner
- Use a 10mm socket to install the new timing chain guides.
- Use a torque wrench and torque guide bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) unless the kit instructions specify otherwise.
- Use a 10mm socket to install the new timing chain tensioner.
- Use a torque wrench and torque tensioner bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Release the tensioner pin only after the chain and guides are correctly installed.
Step 15: Rotate the Engine by Hand
- Remove the camshaft alignment tool and crankshaft alignment pin.
- Use a 24mm socket and breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
- Reinstall the alignment tools to verify timing still lines up.
- If the tools do not fit, stop and correct the timing before reassembly.
Step 16: Clean and Reseal the Front Cover
- Use a gasket scraper to remove old sealant from the cover and engine block.
- Wipe sealing surfaces clean with a lint-free rag.
- Apply RTV engine sealant to the specified front cover sealing areas.
- Install a new crankshaft front seal into the timing cover if not pre-installed.
Step 17: Reinstall the Front Timing Cover
- Place the timing cover straight onto the engine without smearing the sealant.
- Use a 10mm socket to start all cover bolts by hand.
- Use a torque wrench and torque small timing cover bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Use a torque wrench and torque larger timing cover bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) where applicable.
Step 18: Reinstall the Crankshaft Pulley
- Use your hands to align the crankshaft pulley on the crankshaft nose.
- Use a 24mm socket to install the new crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use the crankshaft holding tool and torque wrench to tighten the bolt.
- Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs), then tighten an additional 100 degrees if using a torque-to-yield replacement bolt.
Step 19: Reinstall the Valve Cover
- Install the new valve cover gasket by hand into the valve cover groove.
- Use a 10mm socket to install the valve cover bolts.
- Use a torque wrench and torque valve cover bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect ignition coils and harness clips by hand.
Step 20: Reinstall Accessories, Belt, and Intake
- Use 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets to reinstall removed brackets and accessories.
- Use the serpentine belt tool to rotate the belt tensioner.
- Route the belt over the pulleys exactly as photographed.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to tighten intake duct clamps.
Step 21: Refill Oil and Coolant
- Install a new oil filter by hand, then tighten until snug according to the filter instructions.
- Add 5W-30 full synthetic engine oil.
- Refill with Dex-Cool compatible coolant if coolant was drained.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Before starting, crank the engine briefly and listen for abnormal clanking or binding.
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. It may rattle for a second while oil pressure fills the tensioner.
- ✅ Check carefully for oil and coolant leaks around the front cover, valve cover, and crankshaft seal.
- ✅ Let the engine reach operating temperature, then shut it off and recheck fluid levels after cooling.
- ✅ If a scan tool is available, clear any stored timing-related codes and recheck for pending codes after a road test.
- ✅ Road test gently for 10-15 minutes, then inspect again for leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $1,000-$1,750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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