🔧 Tucson - Timing Belt Replacement

Your Tucson uses a timing chain on the 2.0L gasoline engine, not a timing belt. That means there is no routine timing belt replacement service; the chain is designed to last much longer and is usually serviced only if it becomes noisy, stretched, or causes timing-related fault codes.

This guide covers timing chain replacement, which is a much larger job than a belt replacement and requires careful engine timing setup.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-9 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts with the timing chain removed unless the service procedure specifically says to do so.
• ⚠️ Incorrect timing can cause poor running, no-start, or internal engine damage.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the right-side engine mount.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or working near the exhaust side of the engine.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands any time the vehicle is lifted. Never rely on a jack alone.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 3/8-inch torque wrench
• 1/2-inch torque wrench
• Socket extension set
• Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Trim clip removal tool
• Plastic scraper
• Gasket scraper
• Drain pan 10-quart minimum
• Paint marker
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain - Qty: 1
• Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
• Timing chain guide set - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
• Timing cover gasket/sealant set - Qty: 1
• Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
• Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant - Qty: As needed
• Engine oil - Qty: As needed if contaminated or due
• Oil filter - Qty: 1 if oil is changed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Let the engine cool completely before draining coolant.
• Use an engine support bar before removing the passenger-side engine mount.
• A timing chain tensioner keeps the chain tight using spring and oil pressure. Replace it whenever the chain is replaced.
• Timing marks are factory reference marks that keep the crankshaft and camshafts synchronized.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tucson.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal.
• Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• Tip: Tuck it safely away.

Step 3: Remove the Right Front Wheel and Splash Shield

• Use a 21mm socket if available, or the factory lug wrench, to remove the right front wheel.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the right inner splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket for any splash shield bolts.

Step 4: Drain the Coolant

• Place a 10-quart drain pan under the radiator drain area.
• Open the radiator drain carefully by hand or with pliers if needed.
• Remove the radiator cap only after the engine is cool.

Step 5: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt

• Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner to release belt tension.
• Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
• A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin wrench used to reach and move the spring-loaded belt tensioner.
• Tip: Take a belt routing photo.

Step 6: Support the Engine

• Install an engine support bar across the strut towers.
• Attach the support hook to the engine lifting point.
• Apply light upward tension only. Do not lift the vehicle by the engine.
• An engine support bar holds the engine in place when a mount is removed.

Step 7: Remove the Passenger-Side Engine Mount

• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the passenger-side engine mount fasteners.
• Remove the mount and bracket as needed for timing cover access.
• Keep bolts organized by location.
• During reassembly, tighten engine mount fasteners to factory specification. If exact bolt size/spec varies, do not guess.

Step 8: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley

• Install the crankshaft pulley holding tool to keep the pulley from turning.
• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
• Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the pulley if it does not slide off by hand.
• A harmonic balancer puller is a tool that removes the crank pulley evenly without prying against the engine cover.

Step 9: Remove the Valve Cover

• Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil fasteners and valve cover bolts.
• Disconnect wiring clips gently by hand or with a trim clip removal tool.
• Lift the valve cover off carefully.
• Remove the old valve cover gasket by hand.

Step 10: Remove the Timing Chain Cover

• Use 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket as needed to remove timing cover bolts.
• Use a plastic scraper to gently separate the cover at the sealant seam.
• Do not pry on machined sealing surfaces.
• Tip: Label bolt locations carefully.

Step 11: Set Engine to Top Dead Center

• Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine clockwise only.
• Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks to their factory reference positions.
• Use a paint marker to mark the chain-to-sprocket positions before removal.
• Top Dead Center means cylinder 1 is at the top of its compression stroke.

Step 12: Remove the Timing Chain Tensioner and Guides

• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
• Remove the fixed and pivoting chain guides with the correct 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Keep light hand pressure on the chain so it does not jump unexpectedly.

Step 13: Remove the Timing Chain

• Lift the timing chain off the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket by hand.
• Do not rotate the camshafts or crankshaft after the chain is removed.
• If anything moves, stop and realign timing marks before continuing.

Step 14: Install the New Timing Chain

• Match the colored chain links to the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks.
• Install the new timing chain by hand, keeping the slack on the tensioner side.
• Use the paint marker only as an extra visual aid. Factory timing marks are the final reference.

Step 15: Install New Guides and Tensioner

• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to install the new chain guides.
• Use a 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten guide bolts to factory specification for the exact fastener size.
• Install the new tensioner with a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Pull the tensioner pin only after the chain and guides are correctly installed.

Step 16: Verify Timing by Hand

• Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine clockwise two full turns.
• Stop if you feel hard resistance.
• Recheck that the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks return to the correct positions.
• Tip: Smooth rotation is critical.

Step 17: Clean and Reseal the Timing Cover

• Use a plastic scraper and gasket scraper to clean old sealant from the timing cover and engine block.
• Wipe the surfaces clean with shop towels.
• Install the new crankshaft front oil seal into the timing cover.
• Apply the correct engine-safe RTV sealant from the timing cover gasket/sealant set.

Step 18: Reinstall the Timing Cover

• Position the timing cover carefully without smearing the sealant.
• Use 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to install the bolts by hand first.
• Use a 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten timing cover bolts evenly in stages to factory specification.

Step 19: Reinstall the Valve Cover

• Install the new valve cover gasket into the cover groove by hand.
• Use a 10mm socket to install the valve cover bolts.
• Use a 3/8-inch torque wrench and tighten valve cover bolts evenly to factory specification.

Step 20: Reinstall the Crankshaft Pulley

• Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft by hand.
• Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to hold the pulley.
• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to factory specification.
• Do not use an impact gun for final tightening.

Step 21: Reinstall the Engine Mount

• Position the passenger-side engine mount and bracket.
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to install the fasteners by hand first.
• Use a 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten mount fasteners to factory specification.
• Remove the engine support bar only after the mount is fully tightened.

Step 22: Reinstall the Accessory Drive Belt

• Route the new belt around the pulleys using your photo as a guide.
• Use the serpentine belt tool to move the tensioner.
• Slide the belt fully into each pulley groove.

Step 23: Reinstall Splash Shield and Wheel

• Use a trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to install splash shield bolts.
• Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts with the factory lug wrench.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Use a lug wrench or torque wrench to tighten lug nuts evenly in a star pattern.

Step 24: Refill Coolant and Reconnect Battery

• Refill the cooling system with the correct engine coolant.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Check that all tools are removed from the engine bay.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen closely for rattling, scraping, or knocking noises.
• If the engine cranks unevenly or will not start, stop immediately and recheck mechanical timing.
• Let the engine reach operating temperature while checking for coolant and oil leaks.
• Top off coolant after the thermostat opens and air leaves the system.
• Road test gently for 10-15 minutes, then recheck fluid levels.
• If the check engine light comes on, scan for cam/crank correlation codes before driving further.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 USD equivalent, depending on labor rate and parts quality

DIY Cost: $250-$600 USD equivalent for parts and sealants

You Save: $650-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 5-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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