How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2019 Ford Fusion 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide clarifying no timing belt, with tools, parts, safety tips, and specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2019 Ford Fusion 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide clarifying no timing belt, with tools, parts, safety tips, and specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Fusion - Timing Drive Inspection
Your Fusion’s 2.5L engine does not use a timing belt. It uses an internal timing chain, which is designed to last much longer than a belt and is not a normal maintenance replacement item.
If you are hearing rattling, have timing-related fault codes, or suspect chain stretch, the repair is an advanced internal engine job involving the timing cover, crankshaft pulley, cam timing components, and engine sealing surfaces.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, accessory drive, or engine wiring.
- ⚠️ Support the engine correctly before removing any engine mount parts. The engine can shift or drop if unsupported.
- ⚠️ Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts with the timing chain removed unless the service procedure specifically allows it.
- ⚠️ This is an internal engine timing repair. Incorrect timing can cause a no-start, poor running, or engine damage.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or removing the front cover.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- Ratchet set
- Socket extension set
- Serpentine belt tool
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Crankshaft pulley puller (specialty)
- Camshaft holding tool set (specialty)
- Crankshaft timing peg (specialty)
- Plastic scraper
- Gasket remover tool
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Drain pan
- Coolant funnel kit
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
A timing peg locks the crankshaft in the correct position.
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Front timing cover gasket/seal kit - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
- Engine mount bolts - Qty: as removed
- RTV engine sealant - Qty: 1 tube
- Engine oil - Qty: 5.7 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant - Qty: as needed
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Fusion on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
- Place a drain pan under the engine before draining coolant or oil.
- This job requires holding the crankshaft and camshafts in exact position. Do not attempt it without the listed timing tools.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Verify the Engine Uses a Timing Chain
- Your Fusion’s 2.5L engine uses a timing chain, not a timing belt.
- A timing chain is a metal chain inside the engine that keeps the crankshaft and camshafts synchronized.
- If your goal was routine timing belt maintenance, no timing belt service is required on this engine.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Move the negative cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
- Take a photo before removing connectors.
Step 3: Raise and Support the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Fusion at the correct front jacking point.
- Place jack stands under the proper support points before going underneath.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
Step 4: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant
- Place a drain pan under the engine oil drain plug.
- Use the correct-size socket from your ratchet set to remove the oil drain plug.
- Drain the engine oil, then reinstall the drain plug and torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
- Move the drain pan under the cooling system drain area and drain coolant as needed.
Step 5: Remove Engine Covers and Access Panels
- Use an 8mm socket and 10mm socket to remove lower splash shield fasteners.
- Remove any upper engine covers by hand or with a 10mm socket, depending on fastener style.
- Keep bolts grouped by location so reassembly is easier.
Step 6: Remove the Serpentine Belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool to rotate the belt tensioner and release belt tension.
- A serpentine belt tool is a long, flat wrench that reaches tight belt tensioners.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it from the engine bay.
- Draw the belt path before removal.
Step 7: Support the Engine
- Install an engine support bar across the upper body support points.
- An engine support bar holds the engine from above when a mount is removed.
- Apply light tension to support the engine, but do not lift it aggressively.
Step 8: Remove the Right-Side Engine Mount Area
- Use 15mm socket and 18mm socket to remove the right-side engine mount fasteners as needed for timing cover access.
- Keep track of bolt length and position.
- Do not remove the mount until the engine is safely supported.
Step 9: Remove the Valve Cover
- Disconnect ignition coil and sensor connectors by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove valve cover fasteners.
- Lift the valve cover straight up. Use a plastic scraper only if the gasket sticks.
- Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surface.
Step 10: Set the Engine to Timing Position
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Rotate the engine clockwise only until cylinder 1 is at top dead center.
- Top dead center means the piston is at the top of its travel on the compression stroke.
- Install the crankshaft timing peg and camshaft holding tool set according to the tool instructions.
Step 11: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Install the crankshaft pulley holding tool to keep the pulley from turning.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a crankshaft pulley puller to remove the pulley without prying.
- Discard the old crankshaft pulley bolt if it is torque-to-yield.
Step 12: Remove the Front Timing Cover
- Use 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and 13mm socket to remove the front timing cover bolts.
- Note bolt locations because lengths may vary.
- Use a plastic scraper and gasket remover tool to separate the cover gently.
- Do not bend the timing cover or damage the sealing surface.
Step 13: Remove the Timing Chain Components
- Confirm the camshaft holding tool set and crankshaft timing peg are still installed.
- Use a 10mm socket or 13mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner and guides.
- Remove the timing chain from the sprockets.
- Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after chain removal.
Step 14: Install the New Timing Chain
- Compare the new timing chain kit with the removed components.
- Align the marked chain links with the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.
- Install the new guides using a 10mm socket or 13mm socket.
- Install the new tensioner and release it only after all timing marks are aligned.
- Torque guide and tensioner fasteners to OEM specification for the exact component location.
Step 15: Rotate and Recheck Timing
- Remove the timing tools only as directed by the tool procedure.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the engine clockwise two full turns by hand.
- Reinstall the crankshaft timing peg and camshaft holding tool set to verify alignment.
- If the tools do not fit correctly, stop and reset the timing before reassembly.
Step 16: Clean and Reseal the Timing Cover
- Use a plastic scraper and shop towels to clean old sealant from the cover and engine block.
- Apply RTV engine sealant only in the factory sealing areas.
- Install the new crankshaft front seal into the timing cover if not preinstalled.
- Install the cover carefully without smearing the sealant.
Step 17: Reinstall the Front Cover and Pulley
- Use 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and 13mm socket to install timing cover bolts by hand first.
- Tighten timing cover bolts evenly in stages.
- Install the crankshaft pulley using the proper installer or hand-start method if specified by the pulley tool instructions.
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool, 21mm socket, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Torque crankshaft pulley bolt to OEM torque-plus-angle specification.
Step 18: Reinstall the Valve Cover
- Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover groove.
- Use a 10mm socket to install valve cover bolts by hand first.
- Tighten bolts evenly from the center outward.
- Torque valve cover bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 19: Reinstall Engine Mount and Belt
- Use 15mm socket and 18mm socket to reinstall the right-side engine mount parts.
- Torque engine mount fasteners to OEM specification for each bolt location.
- Use the serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner and install the new serpentine belt.
- Check that the belt ribs sit correctly in every pulley groove.
Step 20: Refill Fluids and Reconnect Battery
- Install a new oil filter by hand and refill the engine with 5.7 quarts of engine oil.
- Use a coolant funnel kit to refill coolant and reduce trapped air.
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Start the engine and check immediately for oil or coolant leaks.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Let the engine idle and listen for abnormal chain rattle, knocking, or scraping.
- ✅ Watch the oil pressure warning light. Shut the engine off if it stays on.
- ✅ Check for coolant leaks around the timing cover and hoses.
- ✅ Let the engine reach operating temperature, then top off coolant as needed.
- ✅ Road-test gently for 10-15 minutes, then recheck oil level and coolant level.
- ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes before driving farther.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,300-$2,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $1,050-$1,550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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