How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost (Trim: SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide with timing tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost (Trim: SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide with timing tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Timing Belt Replacement
Your Escape’s 2.0L gas engine does not have a timing belt. It uses a timing chain inside the engine, so there is no timing belt service interval to replace like on belt-driven engines.
If you are trying to fix timing noise, chain rattle, or cam/crank timing fault codes, the correct repair is timing chain replacement, not timing belt replacement.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ This is not a beginner-friendly maintenance job; incorrect timing can damage the engine.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, wiring, or timing components.
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the passenger-side engine mount.
- ⚠️ Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts separately after the timing chain is removed.
- ⚠️ Work only on a cold engine to avoid burns from hot coolant, oil, and metal parts.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- Metric wrench set 8mm-18mm
- Torx socket set T30-T55
- External Torx socket set E8-E18
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Serpentine belt tool
- Ford 2.0L EcoBoost timing tool kit (specialty)
- Camshaft alignment plate (specialty)
- Crankshaft timing pin (specialty)
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Razor scraper
- Oil drain pan 10-quart
- Coolant drain pan 10-quart
- Brake cleaner
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
- Timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
- Engine mount bolts - Qty: 1 set
- Engine oil 5W-30 full synthetic - Qty: 6 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Motorcraft-compatible coolant - Qty: As needed
- RTV silicone sealant engine-grade - Qty: 1 tube
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Escape on flat ground and set the parking brake.
- ❄️ Let the engine cool completely.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- 🧰 A timing tool kit locks the crankshaft and camshafts so the engine stays correctly timed.
- 📸 Take photos before removing hoses, brackets, and connectors. Photos help during reassembly.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the Passenger Side
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the passenger front side of your Escape.
- Place a jack stand rated 2-ton minimum under the proper support point.
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the passenger front wheel lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and place it flat under the vehicle as a backup safety measure.
Step 2: Remove the Splash Shield and Wheel Liner
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove the wheel liner clips.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove lower splash shield fasteners.
- Pull the liner back to access the crankshaft pulley area.
Step 3: Remove Intake Parts and Top Cover
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the engine cover fasteners if equipped.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake hose clamps.
- Disconnect intake sensor connectors by pressing the lock tab by hand.
- Remove the intake duct and set it aside.
Step 4: Remove the Serpentine Belt
- The serpentine belt is the outside belt that drives accessories like the alternator and A/C compressor.
- Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
- Draw the belt route first.
Step 5: Support the Engine
- Install an engine support bar across the upper engine bay support areas.
- Attach the support hook to the engine lifting point.
- Lightly tension the support bar until it holds the engine weight.
- Do not lift the engine; only support it.
Step 6: Remove the Passenger-Side Engine Mount
- Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to remove the passenger-side engine mount fasteners.
- Remove the mount and bracket from the timing cover area.
- Keep bolts grouped by location.
Step 7: Remove the Valve Cover
- Use an 8mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts.
- Disconnect the ignition coil connectors by hand.
- Pull the coils straight up and set them aside in order.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove the valve cover bolts.
- Lift off the valve cover carefully.
Step 8: Lock the Engine at Top Dead Center
- Top Dead Center means cylinder 1 is at the top of its stroke in the correct timing position.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Rotate the engine clockwise only.
- Install the crankshaft timing pin from the Ford 2.0L timing tool kit.
- Install the camshaft alignment plate at the rear of the camshafts.
Step 9: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to stop the pulley from turning.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Remove and discard the old crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller if the pulley does not slide off by hand.
Step 10: Remove the Timing Cover
- Place an oil drain pan 10-quart below the timing cover area.
- Use an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and 13mm socket to remove the timing cover bolts.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to gently break the RTV seal.
- Remove the timing cover without gouging the metal sealing surfaces.
Step 11: Remove the Old Timing Chain Parts
- Confirm the crankshaft timing pin and camshaft alignment plate are still installed.
- Use a 10mm socket or Torx socket set T30-T55 to remove the chain tensioner.
- Use a 10mm socket or Torx socket set T30-T55 to remove the timing chain guides.
- Remove the timing chain from the sprockets.
- Do not turn the engine with the chain removed.
Step 12: Install the New Timing Chain Kit
- Place the new timing chain over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.
- Match the colored chain links to the timing marks on the sprockets.
- Use a 10mm socket or Torx socket set T30-T55 to install the new chain guides.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the guide bolts to the timing kit specification.
- Install the new timing chain tensioner.
- Release the tensioner only after the chain is seated correctly.
- Check marks before releasing tensioner.
Step 13: Turn the Engine by Hand
- Remove the crankshaft timing pin and camshaft alignment plate.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
- Stop immediately if you feel hard resistance.
- Reinstall the timing tools to confirm the timing still lines up.
- If the tools do not fit, correct the timing before reassembly.
Step 14: Clean and Reseal the Timing Cover
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old RTV sealant.
- Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean the sealing surfaces.
- Use a razor scraper carefully on stubborn sealant only.
- Install the new crankshaft front seal.
- Apply RTV silicone sealant engine-grade to the timing cover sealing path.
Step 15: Reinstall the Timing Cover
- Carefully place the timing cover onto the engine without smearing RTV.
- Start all bolts by hand first.
- Use an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and 13mm socket to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the cover fasteners in sequence.
- Torque to OEM specification by bolt size and location.
Step 16: Reinstall the Crankshaft Pulley
- Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft.
- Install a new crankshaft pulley bolt by hand.
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to hold the pulley steady.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the new bolt.
- Torque to Ford crankshaft pulley bolt specification.
Step 17: Reinstall the Valve Cover
- Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover.
- Set the valve cover onto the cylinder head.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to start all bolts by hand.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the valve cover bolts evenly.
- Torque to OEM valve cover specification.
- Reinstall ignition coils with an 8mm socket.
Step 18: Reinstall Engine Mount and Belt
- Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to reinstall the passenger-side engine mount and bracket.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten mount bolts.
- Torque to OEM engine mount specification.
- Use a serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner.
- Route the serpentine belt correctly and release the tensioner slowly.
Step 19: Reassemble the Wheel Well and Wheel
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to reinstall wheel liner clips.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to reinstall splash shield bolts.
- Install the passenger front wheel.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten lug nuts.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 20: Reconnect Battery and Check Fluids
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Check engine oil level and top off with 5W-30 full synthetic.
- Check coolant level and top off with Motorcraft-compatible coolant.
- Look around the timing cover before starting the engine.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for abnormal chain noise.
- ✅ Check for oil leaks at the timing cover, valve cover, and crankshaft seal.
- ✅ Watch the temperature gauge and check coolant level after warm-up.
- ✅ Let the RTV cure according to the sealant label before hard driving.
- ✅ After a short test drive, recheck oil level, coolant level, and belt alignment.
- ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for camshaft/crankshaft timing codes before driving farther.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,500-$2,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$750 (parts only)
You Save: $1,200-$2,050 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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