How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide explaining timing belt vs chain service, tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide explaining timing belt vs chain service, tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Timing Drive Inspection
Your Escape’s 2.0L EcoBoost engine does not use a timing belt. It uses an internal timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and is not a normal maintenance replacement item like a belt.
If you are hearing chain rattle, have cam/crank timing codes, poor running, or a no-start condition, timing chain service is an advanced repair that requires special Ford timing tools and careful engine timing setup.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, crank pulley, or front engine cover.
- ⚠️ Support the engine correctly before removing any engine mount parts.
- ⚠️ Never rotate the crankshaft or camshafts freely once the timing components are removed.
- ⚠️ Incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before draining coolant or removing the front cover.
- ⚠️ This job involves RTV sealant. RTV is a liquid gasket maker that seals metal covers where no paper gasket is used.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- Metric socket set 7mm-21mm
- Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
- E-Torx socket set E8-E18
- Torx bit set T25-T55
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Crankshaft pulley puller (specialty)
- Ford 2.0L EcoBoost camshaft holding tool (specialty)
- Ford 2.0L EcoBoost crankshaft timing pin (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Trim clip removal tool
- Plastic scraper
- Drain pan 10-quart minimum
- Coolant funnel kit
- Shop light
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
- Front timing cover RTV sealant - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
- Engine mount bolts - Qty: 1 set
- Engine oil - Qty: 5.7 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Motorcraft orange-compatible coolant concentrate - Qty: 1 gallon
- Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground and let the engine cool fully.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Remove the right front wheel area splash shields for access.
- Use an engine support bar before loosening the passenger-side engine mount. An engine support bar holds the engine from above so it does not drop when a mount is removed.
- Important: The timing chain must be installed with the crankshaft and camshafts locked in the correct position.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm You Have a Timing Chain, Not a Belt
- Open the hood and locate the front engine cover on the passenger side of the engine.
- Your Escape has a sealed metal timing cover, not an exposed plastic timing belt cover.
- No routine timing belt replacement is required on this engine.
- If your goal is maintenance only, stop here. There is no timing belt service interval for your Escape.
Step 2: Disconnect Battery Power
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Move the negative cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back.
- Take a photo first.
Step 3: Raise and Support the Front
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the correct front jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
Step 4: Remove Right Front Wheel and Shields
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the right front wheel lug nuts.
- Remove the right front wheel.
- Use a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool to remove the splash shield fasteners.
- Set the shield and clips aside in order.
Step 5: Drain Engine Coolant and Engine Oil
- Place a drain pan 10-quart minimum under the radiator drain area.
- Open the coolant drain carefully and allow the coolant to drain.
- Move the drain pan 10-quart minimum under the oil drain plug.
- Use the correct metric socket from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm to remove the oil drain plug.
- Remove the oil filter using an appropriate oil filter wrench if needed.
Step 6: Remove Intake and Accessory Components
- Use a 7mm socket to loosen the intake tube clamps.
- Disconnect the intake tube and move it aside.
- Use the needed sockets from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm to remove brackets blocking the front cover.
- Label connectors and hoses with tape if needed.
- Photos prevent mistakes.
Step 7: Support the Engine
- Install the engine support bar across the upper body support points.
- Attach the support hook to the engine lifting point.
- Apply light tension only. Do not lift the vehicle with the engine support bar.
Step 8: Remove Passenger-Side Engine Mount
- Use the correct sockets from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm and E-Torx socket set E8-E18 to remove the passenger-side engine mount fasteners.
- Remove the mount and bracket as needed for access.
- Discard one-time-use engine mount bolts if supplied in your parts kit.
- During reassembly, tighten replacement mount bolts to Ford service specification from the service information supplied with the parts kit.
Step 9: Remove Accessory Drive Belt and Crank Pulley
- Use the correct wrench from your metric wrench set 8mm-19mm to rotate the belt tensioner.
- Slide the accessory belt off the pulleys.
- Use a crankshaft pulley holding tool and 18mm socket to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a crankshaft pulley puller to remove the pulley if it does not slide off by hand.
- Do not pry against the timing cover.
Step 10: Remove Valve Cover
- Disconnect ignition coil connectors by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts.
- Use the correct socket from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm to remove the valve cover bolts.
- Lift the valve cover straight up and remove the old gasket.
Step 11: Lock the Engine Timing
- Rotate the engine by hand using an 18mm socket on the crankshaft bolt location until cylinder 1 is at the correct timing position.
- Install the Ford 2.0L EcoBoost crankshaft timing pin.
- Install the Ford 2.0L EcoBoost camshaft holding tool on the camshafts.
- The camshaft holding tool keeps the camshafts from moving while the chain is removed.
- If the tools do not fit, do not force them. Recheck crankshaft position.
Step 12: Remove Front Timing Cover
- Use sockets from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm and Torx bit set T25-T55 to remove the timing cover bolts.
- Note bolt lengths and locations. Some bolts may be different lengths.
- Use a plastic scraper only at safe pry points to separate the cover.
- Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.
Step 13: Remove Timing Chain Components
- Confirm the Ford 2.0L EcoBoost camshaft holding tool and Ford 2.0L EcoBoost crankshaft timing pin are installed.
- Use the appropriate socket from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm to remove the timing chain tensioner.
- Remove the chain guides with the correct socket or Torx bit from your Torx bit set T25-T55.
- Remove the timing chain from the sprockets.
- Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after chain removal.
Step 14: Install New Timing Chain, Guides, and Tensioner
- Install the new guides using the correct socket from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm.
- Fit the new timing chain over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets with the timing marks aligned.
- Install the new tensioner using the correct socket from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm.
- Release the tensioner only after the chain is correctly seated.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten guide and tensioner bolts to the specification supplied with the timing kit or Ford service data.
Step 15: Verify Timing Before Closing the Engine
- Remove the timing tools only after the chain is tensioned.
- Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft clockwise by hand two full turns.
- Reinstall the Ford 2.0L EcoBoost crankshaft timing pin and Ford 2.0L EcoBoost camshaft holding tool.
- Both tools must fit correctly after rotation.
- If they do not fit, the timing is wrong. Do not start the engine.
Step 16: Clean and Reseal the Front Cover
- Use a plastic scraper to remove old RTV from the front cover and engine block.
- Wipe the sealing surfaces clean and dry.
- Install a new crankshaft front seal into the cover.
- Apply front timing cover RTV sealant in the correct bead pattern.
- Install the cover within the sealant working time listed on the RTV tube.
Step 17: Reinstall Front Cover, Valve Cover, and Pulley
- Use sockets from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm to install the front cover bolts by hand first.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the cover bolts evenly to Ford service specification.
- Install the valve cover with a new valve cover gasket set.
- Use an 8mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the valve cover bolts evenly.
- Install the crankshaft pulley with a new crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a crankshaft pulley holding tool, 18mm socket, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to Ford service specification.
Step 18: Reinstall Mount, Belt, Shields, and Wheel
- Use sockets from your metric socket set 7mm-21mm and E-Torx socket set E8-E18 to reinstall the engine mount and bracket.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten engine mount bolts to Ford service specification.
- Use the correct wrench from your metric wrench set 8mm-19mm to rotate the belt tensioner and reinstall the accessory belt.
- Use a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool to reinstall splash shields.
- Use a 21mm socket to reinstall the right front wheel.
- After lowering the vehicle, torque the wheel lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 19: Refill Fluids and Reconnect Battery
- Install a new oil filter by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten as directed on the filter.
- Refill the engine with 5.7 quarts of correct engine oil.
- Use a coolant funnel kit to refill the cooling system with orange-compatible coolant mixed with distilled water.
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
✅ After Repair
- Before starting, crank the engine briefly and listen for abnormal binding or metallic noise.
- Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for oil or coolant leaks.
- Let the engine reach operating temperature with the heater set to hot.
- Top off coolant after air bubbles purge from the system.
- Shut the engine off and recheck engine oil level after 5 minutes.
- If the check engine light comes on, scan for camshaft/crankshaft correlation codes before driving.
- Road test gently for 10-15 minutes, then inspect again for leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)
You Save: $1,000-$2,350 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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