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2018 Ford Focus
2013 - 2018 Ford Focus
Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
  • Ford Focus
  • 2018
  • How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2018 Ford Focus 2.0L (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
FORD FOCUS TIMING MARKS 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Timing Belt

FORD FOCUS TIMING MARKS 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Timing Belt

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8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
18mm
18mm
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How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2018 Ford Focus 2.0L (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step guide with timing tools, parts, safety tips, and torque checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2018 Ford Focus 2.0L (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step guide with timing tools, parts, safety tips, and torque checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

🔧 Focus - Timing Belt Replacement

Your Focus with the 2.0L naturally aspirated engine does not use a timing belt. It uses a timing chain, which is inside the engine and is not a normal maintenance replacement item like a belt.

If you are hearing timing-chain noise, have cam/crank correlation codes, poor running, or a no-start condition, the repair is a much more advanced timing chain service that requires precise engine timing setup.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Do not remove timing components unless the engine is properly locked at Top Dead Center. Top Dead Center means piston #1 is at the exact top of its compression stroke.
  • ⚠️ Incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage.
  • ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount parts.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator, or front engine wiring.
  • ⚠️ This engine uses sealants and torque-to-yield fasteners in some timing-area repairs. Torque-to-yield bolts are stretched during tightening and should not be reused when specified.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • Torque wrench, 10-150 ft-lb range
  • Angle gauge (specialty)
  • Ford 2.0L timing tool set (specialty)
  • Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
  • Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Gasket scraper, plastic
  • Drain pan, 2-gallon minimum
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
  • Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
  • Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
  • Timing cover sealant - Qty: 1
  • Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
  • Engine oil - Qty: 5 quarts
  • Oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Engine coolant - Qty: As needed if coolant is drained

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Focus on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool fully before opening the cooling system or working around the exhaust side of the engine.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Plan for the vehicle to be down for a full day or longer.
  • This is not a beginner-friendly maintenance job. If you meant the accessory belt, that is a separate, much easier repair.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Verify the Repair Needed

  • Use an OBD-II scan tool to check for camshaft/crankshaft timing codes before disassembly.
  • Listen for chain rattle at cold start. A short rattle can point to tensioner or guide wear.
  • If there are no symptoms or codes, do not replace the timing chain as routine maintenance.
  • Chains are not scheduled belt replacements.

Step 2: Raise and Secure the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Focus at the proper front jacking point.
  • Place jack stands under the approved support points.
  • Use wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Step 3: Remove Splash Shield and Right Front Wheel

  • Use a lug wrench or 19mm socket to loosen the right front wheel nuts before lifting if needed.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket to remove the lower splash shield fasteners.
  • Remove the right front wheel with a 19mm socket.
  • When reinstalling the wheel later, torque lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt

  • Use the correct belt tensioner tool or ratchet to rotate the belt tensioner.
  • Slide the accessory belt off the pulleys.
  • Draw a belt routing picture before removal if the label is missing.
  • Take a photo first.

Step 5: Support the Engine

  • Install an engine support bar across the upper body structure.
  • Attach the support chain to a safe engine lifting point.
  • Lightly tension the support bar before removing engine mount parts.
  • An engine support bar holds the engine from above when a mount is removed.

Step 6: Remove Right-Side Engine Mount Components

  • Use 15mm and 18mm sockets to remove the right engine mount fasteners as access requires.
  • Keep bolts organized by location.
  • Do not force the engine to hang from hoses, wiring, or exhaust parts.
  • Final mount torque varies by bolt position; use service-data torque values for the exact fastener during reassembly.

Step 7: Remove the Valve Cover

  • Use an 8mm or 10mm socket to remove ignition coil and valve cover fasteners as equipped.
  • Disconnect electrical connectors by pressing the locking tabs, not pulling the wires.
  • Lift the valve cover straight up to avoid damaging the sealing surface.
  • Clean the sealing area with a plastic gasket scraper only.

Step 8: Set Engine to Top Dead Center

  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine clockwise only.
  • Rotate until cylinder #1 is at Top Dead Center.
  • Install the Ford 2.0L timing tool set to lock the camshafts and crankshaft in position.
  • Do not rely on paint marks alone for final timing.

Step 9: Remove Crankshaft Pulley

  • Use a crankshaft pulley holding tool to hold the pulley steady.
  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  • Use a harmonic balancer puller if the pulley does not slide off by hand.
  • The harmonic balancer is the crank pulley that also helps smooth engine vibration.

Step 10: Remove Timing Cover

  • Use 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets to remove timing cover bolts.
  • Note bolt lengths and locations during removal.
  • Use a plastic gasket scraper to separate the cover gently.
  • Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surface.

Step 11: Remove Chain Tensioner, Guides, and Chain

  • Confirm the Ford timing tools are still fully seated.
  • Use the correct socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
  • Remove the fixed and movable chain guides with the correct socket.
  • Lift the timing chain off the sprockets without rotating the crankshaft or camshafts.

Step 12: Install New Timing Chain Components

  • Install the new timing chain over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets with the engine locked.
  • Use the timing marks on the chain and sprockets exactly as supplied with the timing kit.
  • Install new guides and the new tensioner using the proper socket.
  • Torque values are fastener-specific; use the timing kit instructions or Ford service data for each fastener.

Step 13: Release Tensioner and Verify Timing

  • Use pliers or the specified release pin method to release the new timing chain tensioner.
  • Remove the timing lock tools only after the chain is tensioned.
  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to rotate the engine clockwise two full turns by hand.
  • Reinstall the Ford timing tools to confirm the crankshaft and camshafts still align.
  • If the tools do not fit, stop and retime the engine.

Step 14: Reseal and Install Timing Cover

  • Use a plastic gasket scraper to clean the timing cover and engine sealing surfaces.
  • Apply timing cover sealant in the correct bead size and path.
  • Install the timing cover carefully without smearing the sealant.
  • Use 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets to tighten cover bolts in an even pattern.
  • Torque values vary by bolt size; use service-data torque values for each bolt location.

Step 15: Install Crankshaft Pulley and New Bolt

  • Install the crankshaft pulley fully onto the crankshaft.
  • Use a new crankshaft pulley bolt.
  • Use a crankshaft pulley holding tool, torque wrench, and angle gauge to tighten the bolt to Ford service-data specification.
  • Do not reuse a torque-to-yield crankshaft bolt if replacement is specified.

Step 16: Reinstall Valve Cover

  • Install the new valve cover gasket into the cover groove.
  • Use an 8mm or 10mm socket to install valve cover bolts by hand first.
  • Tighten evenly from the center outward.
  • Use service-data torque values for the valve cover bolts to avoid cracking the cover.

Step 17: Reinstall Engine Mount and Belt

  • Use 15mm and 18mm sockets to reinstall engine mount components.
  • Torque engine mount fasteners to Ford service-data specification for each fastener location.
  • Use the belt tensioner tool or ratchet to reinstall the accessory drive belt.
  • Confirm the belt ribs are seated correctly on every pulley.

Step 18: Reinstall Shield, Wheel, and Battery Cable

  • Use an 8mm socket and trim clip removal tool to reinstall the splash shield fasteners and clips.
  • Install the right front wheel with a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.

✅ After Repair

  • Check engine oil level and coolant level before starting.
  • Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for abnormal rattling, knocking, or grinding.
  • Watch for oil leaks around the valve cover, timing cover, and crankshaft seal.
  • Use an OBD-II scan tool to clear codes and check for returning cam/crank correlation codes.
  • Road test gently, then recheck for leaks after the engine cools.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,000+ (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $950-$1,400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.


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