How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2011-2022 Ram 1500 5.7L HEMI (Trim: Laramie Longhorn | Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step guide clarifying no timing belt, with tools, parts, safety tips, and timing checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2019, 2020, 2022
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2011-2022 Ram 1500 5.7L HEMI (Trim: Laramie Longhorn | Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step guide clarifying no timing belt, with tools, parts, safety tips, and timing checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2019, 2020, 2022
🔧 1500 - Timing Drive Inspection
Your 1500 with the 5.7L HEMI does not use a timing belt. It uses an internal timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and is not a normal maintenance replacement item like a belt.
If you are hearing rattling, have cam/crank correlation codes, misfires, or oil-pressure-related valve timing issues, the correct repair is timing chain/tensioner/guide diagnosis and possible timing chain replacement.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ This is an advanced engine repair. Incorrect cam/crank timing can cause severe engine damage.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, cooling fan, or front engine accessories.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before draining coolant or removing front engine components.
- ⚠️ Support the truck securely if raised. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt and old gasket material out of the engine. Small debris can damage bearings and oil passages.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 16mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 24mm socket
- 5/8-inch spark plug socket
- 6-inch extension
- 12-inch extension
- Serpentine belt tool
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer installer (specialty)
- Crankshaft holding tool (specialty)
- Fan clutch wrench set (specialty)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Drain pan
- Funnel
- Cooling system vacuum fill tool (specialty)
- OBD-II scan tool
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Camshaft sprocket - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft sprocket - Qty: 1
- Timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gaskets - Qty: 2
- Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
- Engine oil 5W-20 synthetic - Qty: 7 quarts
- OAT coolant premix - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- RTV engine sealant - Qty: 1 tube
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your 1500 on level ground, shift to Park, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully. Coolant can cause burns when hot.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Take pictures before removing hoses, wiring connectors, and brackets. This helps during reassembly.
- A harmonic balancer is the heavy pulley on the front of the crankshaft. It must be pulled off with the correct puller, not pried off.
- A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact force. This is important on engine parts.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Scan for Codes and Confirm the Repair
- Use an OBD-II scan tool to check for trouble codes before taking anything apart.
- Look especially for camshaft/crankshaft correlation codes, misfire codes, or oil control solenoid codes.
- Clear codes only after writing them down.
- Pro tip: Diagnose first, replace second.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery post.
Step 3: Raise and Secure the Front if Needed
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the approved front lift point.
- Set the truck onto jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Keep wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
Step 4: Drain Coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Open the drain carefully by hand or with pliers if needed.
- Remove the coolant reservoir cap slowly after pressure is gone.
- Store old coolant safely. It is toxic to people and animals.
Step 5: Remove Intake Ducting and Engine Covers
- Use an 8mm socket to loosen the intake tube clamps.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic retainers.
- Lift the engine cover straight up by hand.
Step 6: Remove the Cooling Fan and Shroud
- Use a fan clutch wrench set to loosen the mechanical fan clutch.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove fan shroud fasteners.
- Lift the fan and shroud upward together if access allows.
- Pro tip: Protect the radiator fins.
Step 7: Remove the Serpentine Belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
- Take a photo of the belt routing before removal.
Step 8: Remove Front Accessories and Brackets
- Use 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets to remove front accessory brackets blocking the timing cover.
- Move wiring harnesses aside carefully by hand.
- Do not pull on wires. Release connectors by pressing their lock tabs.
Step 9: Remove the Water Pump
- Use a 10mm socket and 13mm socket to remove the water pump bolts.
- Pull the water pump straight forward.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to clean the gasket surface.
- Do not gouge the aluminum surface.
Step 10: Remove the Harmonic Balancer
- Use a crankshaft holding tool to keep the crankshaft from turning.
- Use a 24mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller to pull the balancer straight off the crankshaft.
- Do not pry behind the balancer. Prying can damage the timing cover.
Step 11: Remove Valve Covers for Timing Verification
- Use a 5/8-inch spark plug socket if spark plugs need to be removed for easier engine turning.
- Use 8mm and 10mm sockets to remove ignition coil and valve cover fasteners.
- Lift the valve covers off carefully.
- Keep dirt out of the cylinder head openings.
Step 12: Remove the Timing Cover
- Use 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets to remove all timing cover bolts.
- Note bolt locations because lengths can vary.
- Gently break the seal with a plastic gasket scraper.
- Remove the timing cover from the engine.
Step 13: Set Engine to Top Dead Center
- Use a 24mm socket on the crankshaft bolt area to rotate the engine clockwise by hand.
- Top dead center means cylinder #1 is at the top of its compression stroke.
- Align the factory timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket.
- Do not rotate the engine backward.
Step 14: Remove the Old Timing Chain Components
- Use a 10mm socket to remove timing guide and tensioner fasteners.
- Use a 15mm socket or specified socket size to remove cam sprocket fastener if required by the kit.
- Remove the timing chain, tensioner, guides, and sprockets as a matched set.
- Keep the crankshaft and camshaft from moving once the chain is removed.
Step 15: Install the New Timing Chain Kit
- Use your hands to place the new crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket in position.
- Install the timing chain with the colored chain links aligned to the factory timing marks.
- Use a 10mm socket to install the new guides and tensioner.
- Torque guide and tensioner bolts to the specification included with the timing kit or current service data.
- Do not guess torque on timing components.
Step 16: Verify Timing Alignment
- Use a 24mm socket to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns by hand.
- Stop if you feel hard resistance. Do not force it.
- Recheck that the timing marks return to the correct alignment.
- If marks are off, remove the chain and correct the alignment before continuing.
Step 17: Reinstall the Timing Cover
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to clean all sealing surfaces.
- Install a new front crankshaft seal into the timing cover.
- Apply RTV engine sealant only at the factory joint areas where the oil pan, block, and timing cover meet.
- Use 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets to install timing cover bolts by hand first.
- Tighten evenly with a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to current service-data specification.
Step 18: Reinstall the Harmonic Balancer
- Use a harmonic balancer installer to press the balancer onto the crankshaft.
- Do not hammer it on. Hammering can damage crankshaft thrust bearings.
- Use a crankshaft holding tool, 24mm socket, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft bolt to current service-data specification.
Step 19: Reinstall the Water Pump and Covers
- Install the new water pump gasket.
- Use a 10mm socket and 13mm socket to install the water pump bolts.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten bolts evenly to current service-data specification.
- Reinstall valve covers with new gaskets using 8mm and 10mm sockets.
Step 20: Reinstall Belt, Fan, and Intake
- Use a serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner and install the new serpentine belt.
- Check that every belt rib sits correctly in each pulley groove.
- Use a fan clutch wrench set to reinstall the fan clutch.
- Use an 8mm socket to tighten the intake tube clamps.
Step 21: Refill Coolant and Change Oil
- Use a cooling system vacuum fill tool if available to refill the cooling system and reduce air pockets.
- Use a funnel to add the correct OAT coolant premix.
- Replace the engine oil and filter because debris or coolant may have entered during the repair.
- Use the correct oil amount: 7 quarts of 5W-20 synthetic engine oil.
Step 22: Reconnect Battery and First Start
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Start the engine and listen carefully.
- Shut it off immediately if you hear knocking, scraping, or loud chain noise.
- Check for coolant, oil, and vacuum leaks.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Let the engine reach operating temperature while watching the temperature gauge.
- ✅ Use an OBD-II scan tool to check for new trouble codes.
- ✅ Recheck coolant level after the thermostat opens and the engine cools back down.
- ✅ Recheck oil level after the first warm-up cycle.
- ✅ Road test gently for 10-15 minutes, then inspect again for leaks.
- ✅ If cam/crank correlation codes return, stop driving and recheck mechanical timing.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)
You Save: $1,000-$2,350 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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