How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2011-2013 Toyota Highlander 2.7L (Trim: LE | Engine: Inline 4 2.7L | Body: Sport Utility)
Step-by-step guide explaining why there is no timing belt and how to service the chain for 2011, 2012, 2013
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2011-2013 Toyota Highlander 2.7L (Trim: LE | Engine: Inline 4 2.7L | Body: Sport Utility)
Step-by-step guide explaining why there is no timing belt and how to service the chain for 2011, 2012, 2013
🔧 Highlander - Timing Drive Inspection
Your Highlander’s 2.7L inline-4 engine uses a timing chain, not a timing belt. That means there is no timing belt service interval or belt to replace.
If you are hearing rattling on startup, have cam/crank timing codes, or suspect timing chain stretch, the repair is a much larger timing chain service involving the timing cover, chain, guides, tensioner, and precise engine timing setup.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not remove the timing cover unless you are prepared to correctly set engine mechanical timing.
- ⚠️ Incorrect timing chain installation can cause a no-start condition, poor running, or serious engine damage.
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount brackets.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or crank pulley area.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or working near the exhaust side of the engine.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Gasket scraper plastic
- Razor scraper
- Brake cleaner aerosol
- Shop towels
- Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
- Paint marker
- Feeler gauge set
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guide set - Qty: 1
- Timing cover gasket/seal kit - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
- RTV sealant suitable for engine timing cover - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant Toyota-compatible pink premix - Qty: 2 gallons
- Engine oil 0W-20 synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- ✅ Park your Highlander on level ground and let the engine cool completely.
- ✅ Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- ✅ Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- ✅ Raise the front with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- ✅ A timing chain keeps the crankshaft and camshafts synchronized so the valves open at the correct time.
- ✅ A harmonic balancer puller is a tool used to safely pull the crank pulley off the crankshaft without prying.
- ✅ An engine support bar holds the engine from above when an engine mount must be removed.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Verify This Is Not a Belt Job
- Use a flashlight if available and look at the front of the engine. Your Highlander has a sealed metal timing cover, not an external timing belt cover.
- The 2.7L engine uses a timing chain inside the engine. There is no normal timing belt replacement procedure.
- If your goal was maintenance only, stop here. No timing belt replacement is needed.
- Do not replace parts unnecessarily.
Step 2: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant
- Place a drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the engine.
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the engine oil drain plug and drain the oil.
- Reinstall the drain plug using a 14mm socket. Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
- Drain coolant into the drain pan from the radiator drain point if accessible.
- Use nitrile gloves and safety glasses because coolant is toxic and slippery.
Step 3: Remove Lower Shields and Right Front Wheel Access
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove splash shield clips.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the lower shield bolts.
- If more crank pulley access is needed, remove the right front wheel using a 21mm socket.
- Reinstall wheel later with a 21mm socket. Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 4: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt
- Use a 14mm socket or wrench on the belt tensioner to relieve belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys by hand.
- Take a photo of the belt routing before removal.
- Photos prevent routing mistakes.
Step 5: Support the Engine
- Install the engine support bar specialty tool across the upper body structure.
- Attach the support chain to a proper engine lift point.
- Lightly tension the support bar. Do not lift the vehicle by the engine.
- This is needed before removing mount brackets near the timing cover.
Step 6: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool specialty tool to hold the pulley still.
- Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use the harmonic balancer puller specialty tool to remove the crankshaft pulley.
- Do not pry against the timing cover.
Step 7: Remove Valve Cover and Timing Cover Components
- Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts and harness brackets as needed.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the valve cover bolts.
- Lift the valve cover carefully. Use a plastic trim clip remover only if gentle help is needed.
- Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to remove timing cover bolts and brackets.
- Keep bolts organized by location because lengths vary.
Step 8: Set Engine to Top Dead Center
- Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt area to rotate the engine clockwise only.
- Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks exactly to their service positions.
- Use a paint marker to mark the old chain position against the cam and crank sprockets before removal.
- Top dead center means piston number one is at the top of its stroke.
- Turn clockwise only.
Step 9: Remove Timing Chain Tensioner, Guides, and Chain
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
- Use a 12mm socket to remove chain guide bolts as equipped.
- Remove the timing chain carefully without moving the camshaft or crankshaft sprockets.
- If either sprocket moves, stop and realign the timing marks before continuing.
Step 10: Install New Chain, Guides, and Tensioner
- Install the new timing chain with its colored links aligned to the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.
- Use a 12mm socket to install the new chain guides. Tighten guide bolts to the manufacturer specification if supplied with the kit.
- Use a 10mm socket to install the new timing chain tensioner.
- Release the tensioner only after the chain and guides are correctly positioned.
- Rotate the engine two full turns clockwise using a 22mm socket, then recheck timing marks.
Step 11: Clean and Reseal the Timing Cover
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old sealant from the timing cover and engine block.
- Use a razor scraper carefully only on stubborn metal surfaces.
- Clean sealing surfaces with brake cleaner aerosol and shop towels.
- Apply fresh RTV sealant suitable for engine timing cover in the same pattern as the original sealing bead.
- RTV is a liquid gasket maker that cures into a flexible seal.
Step 12: Reinstall Timing Cover and Valve Cover
- Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to reinstall timing cover bolts in their original locations.
- Tighten small timing cover bolts evenly. Use published kit instructions if torque specs are included.
- Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the valve cover bolts. Tighten evenly in small steps.
- Do not overtighten the valve cover bolts because the cover can crack or leak.
Step 13: Reinstall Crankshaft Pulley and Belt
- Install the crankshaft pulley by hand onto the crankshaft nose.
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool specialty tool to hold the pulley.
- Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the crank pulley bolt to the manufacturer specification.
- Use a 14mm socket or wrench on the belt tensioner and install the accessory drive belt according to your photo.
Step 14: Refill Oil and Coolant
- Install a new oil filter by hand, then snug it according to the filter instructions.
- Add 0W-20 synthetic engine oil.
- Add Toyota-compatible pink premix coolant to the radiator and reservoir.
- Use shop towels to wipe spills immediately.
Step 15: First Start and Leak Check
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and listen carefully for abnormal rattling or knocking.
- Check around the timing cover, valve cover, oil filter, drain plug, and coolant connections for leaks.
- If the engine runs rough or makes chain noise, shut it off immediately.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Let the engine reach operating temperature while watching the coolant level and temperature gauge.
- ✅ Top off coolant after air bubbles purge from the system.
- ✅ Recheck engine oil level after shutdown and a 5-minute wait.
- ✅ Road test gently for 10-15 minutes, then inspect again for oil or coolant leaks.
- ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for cam/crank correlation codes before driving farther.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,500-$2,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $850-$2,150 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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