🔧 Fusion - Timing Belt Replacement

Your Fusion’s 1.5L EcoBoost engine uses a wet timing belt, which runs inside the engine oil behind the front engine cover. Replacing it is a major engine-timing repair that requires locking the crankshaft and camshafts in the correct position before the belt is removed.

Assumption: This is the U.S.-market 1.5L EcoBoost engine. This procedure also requires replacing related one-time-use seals and hardware.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after the timing belt is removed. Engine damage can occur.
• ⚠️ This engine is an interference design, meaning pistons and valves can collide if timing is wrong.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing the right-side engine mount.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator, or engine harness.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or working near the turbocharger and exhaust.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used engine oil and coolant safely according to local rules.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Metric socket set 7mm-21mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
• 1/4-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 20-200 Nm
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm
• Torque angle gauge (specialty)
• Ford 1.5L EcoBoost camshaft alignment tool set (specialty)
• Ford crankshaft timing peg (specialty)
• Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pick tool set
• Plastic scraper
• Drain pan 10-quart minimum
• Coolant funnel kit
• Oil filter wrench 74mm 14-flute
• Serpentine belt tool 15mm
• RTV applicator nozzle
• Shop towels
• Brake cleaner aerosol
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Wet timing belt kit - Qty: 1
• Timing belt tensioner - Qty: 1
• Timing belt idler pulley - Qty: 1
• Engine front cover sealant - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
• Camshaft sprocket bolts - Qty: 2
• Engine mount bolts - Qty: 1 set
• Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Engine oil separator gasket - Qty: 1
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Engine oil 5W-20 synthetic blend or full synthetic - Qty: 4.3 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Motorcraft orange-compatible coolant concentrate or premix - Qty: As needed
• Coolant drain plug seal - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Fusion on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• 🧊 Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Set it aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• 🧰 A camshaft alignment tool holds the camshafts still so valve timing stays correct.
• 🧰 A crankshaft timing peg is a special stop pin that positions the crankshaft exactly at the timing point.
• 🧰 A torque angle gauge measures extra bolt rotation after torque is applied.
• 📝 Take photos before unplugging hoses and connectors. This makes reassembly much easier.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Fusion at the front jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front pinch welds.
• Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the Engine Appearance Cover and Lower Shields

• Use your hands to lift the engine appearance cover straight up from its rubber mounts.
• Use a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool to remove the lower splash shield fasteners.
• Set the splash shield aside.
• Keep clips grouped by location.

Step 3: Drain the Engine Oil and Coolant

• Place a 10-quart drain pan under the oil pan.
• Use the correct-size socket from the metric socket set to remove the oil drain plug.
• Allow the oil to drain fully.
• Use a 74mm 14-flute oil filter wrench to remove the oil filter.
• Move the drain pan under the radiator drain area.
• Use pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver as needed to open the radiator drain and drain coolant.
• Reinstall the oil drain plug and tighten to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove the Right Front Wheel and Fender Liner

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the right front wheel lug nuts.
• Remove the lug nuts with the 21mm socket.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the rocker area as a backup safety cushion.
• Use a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool to remove the right front fender liner fasteners.

Step 5: Remove the Serpentine Belt

• Use a 15mm serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
• Rotate the tensioner slowly to release belt tension.
• Slide the serpentine belt off the pulleys and remove it.
• Draw the belt routing with a paint marker or take a photo before removal.

Step 6: Support the Engine

• Install an engine support bar across the upper strut towers.
• Attach the support hook to the engine lifting eye.
• Apply light upward tension only. Do not lift the vehicle.
• Place a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan only as a secondary support.

Step 7: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use 15mm and 18mm sockets from the metric socket set to remove the right engine mount fasteners.
• Remove the mount bracket from the body and engine side.
• Discard one-time-use mount bolts if supplied in your kit.
• During installation later, tighten engine mount-to-body bolts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• During installation later, tighten engine mount-to-engine bracket bolts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Remove Intake, Coils, and Valve Cover

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen intake tube clamps.
• Use an 8mm socket to remove intake duct fasteners.
• Unplug the ignition coils by pressing each connector tab by hand.
• Use an 8mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts.
• Use an 8mm socket to remove valve cover bolts.
• Lift the valve cover off carefully and remove the old gasket.
• Clean gasket surfaces with a plastic scraper and shop towels.

Step 9: Set the Engine to Timing Position

• Use a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt to rotate the engine clockwise only.
• Rotate until cylinder 1 is at top dead center, which means piston 1 is at the top of its stroke.
• Install the Ford crankshaft timing peg by hand into the timing peg port.
• Gently rotate the crankshaft clockwise until it contacts the peg.
• Install the Ford 1.5L EcoBoost camshaft alignment tool set onto the rear of the camshafts.
• The camshaft tool must sit flat. If it does not, rotate the engine one full turn clockwise and try again.

Step 10: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley

• Install the crankshaft pulley holding tool to keep the pulley from turning.
• Use a breaker bar and correct-size socket to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
• Remove and discard the crankshaft pulley bolt.
• Use a harmonic balancer puller if the pulley does not slide off by hand.
• Do not pry against the front engine cover.

Step 11: Remove the Front Engine Cover

• Use 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets to remove the front engine cover bolts.
• Note bolt locations because lengths can vary.
• Use a plastic scraper to gently separate the cover from the engine.
• Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.
• Remove old RTV sealant with a plastic scraper and brake cleaner aerosol.

Step 12: Remove the Old Wet Timing Belt

• Confirm the Ford crankshaft timing peg is installed.
• Confirm the Ford camshaft alignment tool is installed and seated flat.
• Use the proper socket from the metric socket set to loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt.
• Remove the tensioner and idler pulley.
• Slide the old timing belt off the sprockets.
• Do not rotate any sprocket with the belt removed.

Step 13: Install the New Timing Belt, Tensioner, and Idler

• Use shop towels to make sure sprockets are clean and dry.
• Install the new timing belt around the crankshaft sprocket first, then around the camshaft sprockets.
• Keep the belt tight on the non-tensioner side.
• Install the new idler pulley with the correct socket.
• Tighten the idler pulley bolt to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Install the new timing belt tensioner with the correct socket.
• Set the tensioner according to the marks on the tensioner body.
• Tighten the tensioner bolt to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Verify Engine Timing by Hand

• Remove the Ford camshaft alignment tool set.
• Remove the Ford crankshaft timing peg.
• Use a socket and breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
• Reinstall the crankshaft timing peg and camshaft alignment tool.
• Both tools must fit without forcing them.
• If the tools do not fit, stop and reset the timing before continuing.
• Never use the starter for this check.

Step 15: Reinstall the Front Engine Cover

• Use brake cleaner aerosol and shop towels to clean sealing surfaces.
• Apply a continuous bead of engine front cover sealant using an RTV applicator nozzle.
• Position the front cover carefully without smearing the sealant.
• Install bolts finger-tight first.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten small front cover bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten larger front cover bolts to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Install the Crankshaft Pulley

• Install the crankshaft pulley by hand, aligning it properly on the crankshaft nose.
• Install a new crankshaft pulley bolt by hand.
• Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to stop the pulley from rotating.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the new bolt to Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque angle gauge to rotate the bolt an additional 90 degrees.

Step 17: Reinstall the Valve Cover

• Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover groove.
• Use a small bead of RTV only at factory joint corners if required by the gasket kit instructions.
• Set the valve cover straight down onto the cylinder head.
• Install bolts finger-tight first.
• Use an 8mm socket and torque wrench to tighten valve cover bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Reinstall ignition coils with an 8mm socket and tighten to Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).
• Reconnect coil electrical connectors by hand until they click.

Step 18: Reinstall Engine Mount and Serpentine Belt

• Use 15mm and 18mm sockets to reinstall the right engine mount and bracket.
• Tighten engine mount bolts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Remove the engine support bar after the mount is fully tightened.
• Use the 15mm serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner.
• Install the new serpentine belt following your routing photo.
• Release the tensioner slowly and confirm the belt sits in every pulley groove.

Step 19: Reinstall Fender Liner, Wheel, and Lower Shield

• Use a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool to reinstall the right front fender liner.
• Install the wheel by hand-threading the lug nuts first.
• Use a 21mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten lug nuts to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
• Use a 7mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield.

Step 20: Refill Engine Oil and Coolant

• Use a clean funnel to add 4.3 quarts of 5W-20 engine oil.
• Install the new oil filter by hand, then tighten until the gasket contacts and turn another 3/4 turn.
• Use a coolant funnel kit to refill the cooling system with Ford-compatible coolant.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
• Tighten the battery terminal snugly. Do not overtighten.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Before starting, crank the engine for a few seconds while listening for abnormal noises. Stop immediately if anything sounds wrong.
• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. The first start may take slightly longer than normal.
• ✅ Check for oil leaks around the front cover, valve cover, oil filter, and drain plug.
• ✅ Check for coolant leaks as the engine warms up.
• ✅ Let the engine reach operating temperature, then allow it to cool and recheck coolant level.
• ✅ Confirm the serpentine belt tracks straight on all pulleys.
• ✅ Test drive gently for 10-15 minutes, then recheck oil and coolant levels.
• ✅ If the check engine light turns on or the engine runs rough, stop driving and scan for diagnostic trouble codes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,500-$2,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $1,150-$1,750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.

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