How to Replace the Timing Belt on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L EcoBoost (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide with timing tools, water pump replacement, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Timing Belt on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L EcoBoost (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide with timing tools, water pump replacement, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Escape - Timing Belt Replacement
Your Escape’s 1.6L EcoBoost uses a timing belt to keep the crankshaft and camshafts in perfect time. This is a precision repair: the engine must be locked with Ford-specific timing tools before the belt is removed, then hand-checked before the first start.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 5-8 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Incorrect timing can cause major engine damage because this is an interference engine.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
- ⚠️ Support the engine safely before removing the right-side engine mount.
- ⚠️ Never rotate the crankshaft or camshafts independently with the belt removed.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before draining coolant or working near the turbocharger area.
- ⚠️ Replace stretch bolts, also called torque-to-yield bolts, when specified because they are designed for one-time use.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 19mm socket
- Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 20-250 Nm
- Angle torque gauge (specialty)
- Ford 1.6L EcoBoost timing tool kit (specialty)
- Camshaft alignment plate (specialty)
- Crankshaft timing pin (specialty)
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Serpentine belt tool 15mm
- Torx T30 screwdriver
- Torx T40 socket
- E-Torx E10 socket
- E-Torx E12 socket
- Flat-blade trim tool
- Panel clip removal tool
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wood block 12-inch minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan 10-quart
- Paint marker
- Clean shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing belt kit - Qty: 1
- Timing belt tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing belt idler pulley - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
- Camshaft sprocket bolts - Qty: 2
- Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket or seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant meeting Ford specification - Qty: 2 gallons
- Right engine mount bolts - Qty: 1 set
- Timing cover seals or gaskets - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Let the engine cool fully before opening the cooling system.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Raise the front of your Escape and support it with jack stands.
- Do not start this job without the Ford 1.6L EcoBoost timing tool kit.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect Battery and Secure Vehicle
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery cable nut.
- Remove the cable from the battery post and keep it away from the terminal.
- Use wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
Step 2: Raise Front and Remove Right Wheel
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the front of your Escape.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
- Use a 19mm socket to remove the right front lug nuts.
- Remove the right front wheel.
- When reinstalling later, tighten lug nuts to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 3: Remove Right Splash Shield
- Use a panel clip removal tool to remove plastic push clips.
- A panel clip removal tool is a fork-shaped tool that lifts plastic clips without breaking them.
- Use a Torx T30 screwdriver to remove Torx screws from the splash shield.
- Remove the splash shield to access the crankshaft pulley area.
- Keep clips organized.
Step 4: Remove Engine Cover and Intake Ducting
- Pull the engine cover upward by hand to release it from the rubber mounts.
- Use a 7mm socket to loosen the intake duct clamps.
- Use a flat-blade trim tool to release any plastic retainers.
- Move the intake ducting out of the way for timing cover access.
Step 5: Drain Coolant Below Water Pump Level
- Place a 10-quart drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Open the drain carefully by hand if equipped.
- Drain enough coolant so the level is below the water pump.
- Close the drain after coolant flow slows.
Step 6: Remove Accessory Drive Belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool 15mm on the accessory belt tensioner.
- A tensioner is a spring-loaded pulley that keeps belt pressure correct.
- Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
- Slide the accessory drive belt off the pulleys.
- Use a paint marker to sketch belt routing if needed.
Step 7: Support the Engine
- Place a wood block 12-inch minimum on the floor jack saddle.
- Position the jack and wood block under the engine oil pan.
- Raise the jack only until it lightly supports the engine.
- Do not lift the vehicle by the oil pan.
Step 8: Remove Right Engine Mount
- Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, or E-Torx E12 socket to remove the right engine mount fasteners.
- An E-Torx socket fits external star-shaped bolt heads.
- Remove the right engine mount and bracket.
- Keep the engine supported with the jack.
- During installation, tighten mount fasteners to the new bolt instructions. Typical range is Torque to 80-115 Nm (59-85 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Remove Timing Belt Covers
- Use an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and Torx T30 screwdriver to remove the timing cover bolts.
- Use a flat-blade trim tool gently if the cover sticks.
- Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.
- Do not pry hard on plastic covers.
Step 10: Set Engine to Top Dead Center
- Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and the correct socket on the crankshaft bolt.
- Rotate the engine clockwise only.
- Top dead center means cylinder 1 is at the top of its travel.
- Install the crankshaft timing pin from the Ford 1.6L EcoBoost timing tool kit.
- Gently rotate the crankshaft clockwise until it rests against the pin.
Step 11: Lock Camshafts
- Use the camshaft alignment plate from the timing tool kit.
- The camshaft alignment plate holds both camshafts in the exact timed position.
- Install the plate into the rear camshaft slots.
- The plate should slide in smoothly.
- If it does not fit, rotate the crankshaft one full clockwise turn and recheck.
- Never force timing tools.
Step 12: Remove Crankshaft Pulley
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to keep the pulley from turning.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and discard it.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley.
Step 13: Remove Old Timing Belt
- Use the correct metric socket to loosen the timing belt tensioner fastener.
- Rotate the tensioner away from the belt using the tensioner tool from the timing kit if needed.
- Remove the belt from the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprockets, idler pulley, water pump, and tensioner.
- Do not rotate any sprocket after removing the belt.
Step 14: Replace Water Pump and Pulleys
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove the water pump bolts.
- Remove the old water pump and gasket.
- Use clean shop towels to clean the sealing surface.
- Install the new water pump and gasket.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten water pump bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Use the correct metric socket to install the new idler pulley and tensioner.
- Tighten the idler pulley fastener to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Install New Timing Belt
- Confirm the crankshaft timing pin is installed.
- Confirm the camshaft alignment plate is installed.
- Route the new timing belt around the crankshaft sprocket first.
- Continue around the idler pulley, camshaft sprockets, water pump, and tensioner.
- Keep the belt tight on the side opposite the tensioner.
Step 16: Set Timing Belt Tension
- Use the tensioner tool or correct Allen key from the timing kit to rotate the tensioner.
- Align the tensioner pointer with the reference mark.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the tensioner fastener to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
- Recheck pointer alignment after tightening.
Step 17: Verify Timing by Hand
- Remove the camshaft alignment plate and crankshaft timing pin.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
- Reinstall the crankshaft timing pin.
- Gently rotate the crankshaft clockwise until it contacts the pin.
- Reinstall the camshaft alignment plate.
- If the plate does not slide in smoothly, remove the belt and repeat the timing setup.
Step 18: Install Crankshaft Pulley
- Install the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft.
- Install a new crankshaft pulley bolt by hand.
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to hold the pulley.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and angle torque gauge to tighten the bolt to Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs) plus 90 degrees.
Step 19: Reinstall Covers and Engine Mount
- Use an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and Torx T30 screwdriver to reinstall the timing covers.
- Tighten timing cover bolts to Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
- Use the floor jack and wood block to align the engine mount holes.
- Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, or E-Torx E12 socket to reinstall the right engine mount.
- Tighten the mount fasteners to the new bolt instructions. Typical range is Torque to 80-115 Nm (59-85 ft-lbs).
Step 20: Reinstall Accessory Belt and Intake Ducting
- Use the serpentine belt tool 15mm to rotate the accessory belt tensioner.
- Install the new accessory drive belt over the pulleys.
- Release the tensioner slowly.
- Check that belt ribs sit correctly in all pulley grooves.
- Use a 7mm socket to reinstall intake ducting and tighten clamps.
Step 21: Reinstall Splash Shield and Wheel
- Use a Torx T30 screwdriver to reinstall splash shield screws.
- Use a panel clip removal tool to seat plastic push clips.
- Install the right front wheel.
- Use a 19mm socket to snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower your Escape with the floor jack.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 22: Refill Coolant and Reconnect Battery
- Fill the coolant reservoir with Ford-spec coolant.
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Tighten the battery terminal nut to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Confirm all timing tools are removed before starting the engine.
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle.
- ✅ Shut it off immediately if you hear knocking, popping, grinding, or belt slapping.
- ✅ Watch for coolant leaks around the water pump and hose connections.
- ✅ Turn the heater to hot and let the engine reach operating temperature.
- ✅ Let the engine cool, then recheck coolant level.
- ✅ Road-test gently for 10-15 minutes.
- ✅ Recheck for leaks, warning lights, and unusual noises.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,100-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)
You Save: $850-$1,250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 5-7 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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