How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2019 Toyota Camry
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and cooling system bleeding tips for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2019 Toyota Camry
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and cooling system bleeding tips for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Thermostat - Replacement
On your Camry, the thermostat is part of the engine cooling system and is replaced by draining coolant, removing the thermostat housing, and installing a new seal. This job is important because a stuck thermostat can cause overheating, poor heater performance, or slow warm-up.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- Do not open the radiator cap when the engine is hot.
- Coolant is toxic. Keep it away from pets and children.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair, but keep tools away from the cooling fan circuit.
- Use a drain pan and clean spills immediately to avoid slipping.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- Torque wrench
- Drain pan
- Funnel
- Coolant spill-free funnel (specialty)
- Flat trim tool
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Gasket scraper or plastic pick
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat gasket or seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Thermostat housing O-ring - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully before starting.
- Set the heater to full hot before draining coolant.
- Drain enough coolant so the level is below the thermostat housing.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Open the radiator drain cock or remove the lower hose as needed for controlled draining.
- Drain enough coolant so it sits below the thermostat housing.
- Save clean coolant only if it is fresh.
Step 2: Remove access parts
- Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove any engine cover or intake ducting blocking access to the thermostat housing.
- Move hoses or harness clips aside gently so you can reach the housing.
Step 3: Remove the thermostat housing
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Lift the housing off carefully and catch any remaining coolant with shop towels.
- Note the thermostat orientation before removal.
Step 4: Remove the old thermostat
- Remove the thermostat from the housing or engine-side seat, depending on how the unit is mounted.
- Use a gasket scraper or plastic pick to clean the sealing surface.
- Do not scratch the aluminum surface.
Step 5: Install the new thermostat
- Install the new thermostat in the same direction as the old one.
- Install the new thermostat gasket or seal and make sure it sits flat.
- Reinstall the housing by hand first so the bolts do not cross-thread.
Step 6: Torque the housing
- Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the housing bolts evenly.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) for the thermostat housing bolts.
- Snug evenly to avoid leaks.
Step 7: Reassemble removed parts
- Reinstall any intake ducting, covers, or brackets removed earlier using the 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
- Make sure every hose clamp and connector is back in place.
Step 8: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Use a funnel and coolant spill-free funnel (specialty) to refill with the correct engine coolant.
- Fill slowly to avoid trapping air.
- Start the engine with the radiator cap/funnel installed and set the heater to hot.
- Let the engine warm up until the thermostat opens and bubbles stop appearing.
Step 9: Final check
- Check the coolant level and top off as needed.
- Inspect the thermostat housing for leaks.
- Reinstall the radiator cap once air is purged and the coolant level is stable.
✅ After Repair
- Watch the temperature gauge on the first drive.
- Check for leaks again after the engine cools down.
- Recheck coolant level the next day and top off if needed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $280-$520 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)
You Save: $235-$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















