How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2018 Kia Optima (Coolant Drain & Refill Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and thermostat housing torque specs (9.8 Nm) for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2018 Kia Optima (Coolant Drain & Refill Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and thermostat housing torque specs (9.8 Nm) for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Optima - Thermostat Replacement
On your Optima, the thermostat sits in the coolant outlet/inlet housing where the radiator hose meets the engine. Replacing it restores proper coolant flow so the engine warms up normally and doesn’t overheat.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work on a fully cold engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; use a catch pan and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnecting the battery is not required, but keep tools clear of the radiator fan (it can come on unexpectedly).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Shop rags
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" extension
- Torque wrench (5–60 Nm range)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat O-ring / gasket - Qty: 1
- Hyundai/Kia long-life coolant (P-OAT) - Qty: 2 gallons (premix)
- Replacement hose clamp - Qty: 1 (optional)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (preferably 2+ hours).
- Set the cabin heat to HOT during the bleed step later (this helps purge air).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front and remove the lower splash shield
- Use floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front safely and place the car on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the lower engine cover/splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
Step 2: Relieve cooling system pressure
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand. If you hear pressure, stop and wait until it’s fully released.
- Cold engine only.
Step 3: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator drain area.
- Open the radiator drain cock using a flat-blade screwdriver (some drain cocks are hand-turn; use the screwdriver only if needed).
- Let coolant drain fully, then close the drain cock snugly.
Step 4: Locate the thermostat housing
- From the front of the engine bay, follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine—this connection is the thermostat housing area.
- If access is tight, remove the intake snorkel/duct clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver and move the ducting aside.
Step 5: Remove the lower radiator hose from the housing
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
- Twist and pull the hose off the housing. Catch any remaining coolant with the drain pan.
- Twist first to break the seal.
Step 6: Remove the thermostat housing
- Remove the housing bolts using a 10mm socket (some fasteners in this area may be 12mm socket depending on the housing/bracket).
- Pull the housing straight off. Keep track of the thermostat orientation before removing it.
- Clean the mating surfaces using shop rags. Do not gouge aluminum surfaces.
Step 7: Install the new thermostat and seal
- Install the new thermostat in the same orientation as removed.
- Install the new thermostat O-ring / gasket. Make sure it sits flat and is not pinched.
- Reinstall the housing and hand-thread bolts first.
- Tighten housing bolts evenly using a torque wrench: Torque to 9.8 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the hose and reassemble access parts
- Reinstall the lower radiator hose and position the clamp using hose clamp pliers.
- Reinstall any intake ducting removed using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
- Lower the car using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 9: Refill and bleed air from the cooling system
- Fill the reservoir with Hyundai/Kia long-life coolant (P-OAT) using a funnel until it reaches the MAX line.
- Start the engine and set the heater to HOT with the fan on low.
- Let the engine idle and warm up until the radiator fan cycles at least once.
- Shut the engine off, let it cool, then top off coolant to the MAX line as needed.
- Check the thermostat housing and hose connection for leaks using safety glasses and a flashlight (use your phone light if needed).
✅ After Repair
- Take a 10–15 minute test drive while watching the temperature gauge.
- After the engine cools completely, recheck the reservoir level and top off to MAX if needed.
- Inspect for dried coolant tracks around the housing and hose clamp the next day.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $310-$560 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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