How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Thermostat - Replacement
The thermostat on your Sierra controls how quickly engine coolant flows through the engine. Replacing it restores proper warm-up and helps fix overcooling, overheating, or temperature fluctuation issues.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Engine must be completely cool before opening the cooling system.
- Coolant can cause serious burns. Open the pressure cap slowly only when cold.
- Keep coolant away from pets and children.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the fan or accessory wiring.
- Use jack stands if you raise the truck. Never rely on a jack alone.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Short extension
- Torque wrench
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Drain pan
- Funnel
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Pick tool
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Jack stands
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat assembly - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing gasket or seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
- If your truck has a skid plate or splash shield in the way, remove it first.
- Have the new coolant ready in the correct mix ratio.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve cooling system pressure
- With the engine cold, slowly remove the coolant reservoir cap.
- Place a drain pan under the radiator area.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant
- Use a drain pan and open the radiator drain if accessible, or remove the lower hose clamp with hose clamp pliers.
- Drain enough coolant so the level drops below the thermostat housing.
- Catch and reuse clean coolant only if it is fresh.
Step 3: Remove intake ducting
- Use an 8mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to remove the air intake duct and any airbox fasteners blocking access.
- Move the duct aside to reach the thermostat housing.
Step 4: Remove the thermostat housing
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Lift the housing away carefully and let any remaining coolant drain into the pan.
- If the housing sticks, gently work it loose with a flat-blade screwdriver. Do not gouge the sealing surface.
Step 5: Remove the old thermostat
- Pull the thermostat out of the housing or engine side, depending on how it is seated.
- Remove the old gasket or seal.
- Clean both mating surfaces with a shop towel and a plastic scraper if needed.
Step 6: Install the new thermostat
- Install the new thermostat in the same direction as the original.
- Install the new gasket or seal.
- Match the old part before installing.
Step 7: Reinstall the housing
- Set the housing in place by hand and start all bolts by hand first.
- Use a torque wrench and 10mm socket to tighten the bolts evenly.
- Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reinstall the intake ducting
- Reinstall the air intake duct and tighten the clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket.
- Make sure all hoses and connectors are fully seated.
Step 9: Refill the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill with the correct coolant mix.
- Fill the reservoir to the proper mark.
- Leave the cap off for the initial bleed if air removal is needed.
Step 10: Bleed air and verify operation
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Set the heater to full hot.
- Watch the coolant level and add as needed.
- Once the engine reaches operating temperature, check for leaks at the thermostat housing and hoses.
✅ After Repair
- Check the coolant level again after the engine cools completely.
- Inspect for leaks after a short road test.
- Verify the temperature gauge reaches normal and stays steady.
- Recheck hose clamps and housing bolts if needed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $240-$460 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















