How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2015 Chevrolet Equinox
Step-by-step cooling system repair with tools, parts, torque specs, and bleeding tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2015 Chevrolet Equinox
Step-by-step cooling system repair with tools, parts, torque specs, and bleeding tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Thermostat - Replacement
Your Equinox uses a thermostat assembly in the cooling system to control engine temperature. If it sticks open or closed, you can get poor heat, overheating, or a check engine light. This job is straightforward for a beginner, but you must work cleanly and safely because the cooling system is pressurized and hot.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
- Never remove the radiator cap on a hot engine.
- Use gloves and safety glasses because coolant can burn skin and eyes.
- Catch and dispose of coolant properly; pets are attracted to its sweet smell.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable if you will be working near the radiator fan or connectors.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Metric socket set
- 1/4-inch ratchet
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- Extension bar
- 10mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Pliers
- Drain pan
- Coolant funnel
- Torque wrench
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Jack and jack stands
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat assembly - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing gasket or seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Dex-Cool compatible) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Coolant hose clamp - Qty: 1, if damaged
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine go cold.
- Put a drain pan under the radiator area.
- If needed, raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the cooling system
- Open the radiator drain or lower hose connection and drain enough coolant to get below the thermostat level.
- Use a drain pan to catch the coolant.
- Keep coolant off belts and wiring.
Step 2: Remove intake ducting or access parts
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 10mm socket to remove any air ducting or covers blocking access to the thermostat housing.
- Move parts aside carefully so you do not crack plastic clips or hoses.
Step 3: Disconnect the thermostat housing area
- Use pliers to release the hose clamp from the thermostat housing.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the housing.
- Expect some leftover coolant to spill.
Step 4: Remove the thermostat housing
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Lift the housing off the engine.
- Remove the old thermostat and seal.
- Note how the thermostat sits before removing it.
Step 5: Clean the mounting surface
- Use a clean rag to wipe the mating surface on the engine.
- Do not scratch the aluminum surface.
- Make sure the old gasket material is fully removed.
Step 6: Install the new thermostat
- Install the new thermostat and new seal in the same orientation as the old one.
- Set the housing in place by hand first.
- Use a 10mm socket to install the bolts finger-tight.
- Torque to 10 N·m (89 in-lbs).
Step 7: Reconnect the hose and removed parts
- Push the hose back onto the housing.
- Use pliers to reposition the clamp.
- Reinstall any intake ducting or covers with the flat-blade screwdriver or 10mm socket.
Step 8: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Pour in the correct Dex-Cool coolant mix using a coolant funnel.
- Fill to the proper level.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater on high.
- Watch the coolant level and add as needed while air bleeds out.
- Top off the reservoir after the engine reaches operating temperature and cools again.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks at the thermostat housing and hose connections.
- Verify the temperature gauge reaches normal.
- Make sure the heater blows hot air.
- Recheck coolant level after a complete cool-down cycle.
- Scan for cooling system codes if the check engine light was on before the repair.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$510 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















