How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2014-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L V8 (Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step coolant drain, thermostat install, bleeding tips, tools, parts, and torque specs for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2014-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L V8 (Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step coolant drain, thermostat install, bleeding tips, tools, parts, and torque specs for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Thermostat Replacement
Replacing the thermostat on your Grand Cherokee means draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing at the front of the 5.7L V8, installing a new thermostat and seal, then refilling and bleeding the cooling system. The thermostat controls engine temperature, so a stuck-open or stuck-closed thermostat can cause overheating, poor heater performance, or check-engine codes.
Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only on a completely cool engine; hot coolant can cause serious burns.
- ⚠️ Do not remove the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap while the system is hot or pressurized.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant away from pets and children; it is toxic and often tastes sweet.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands if lifting the front of your Grand Cherokee; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for this repair, but keep tools away from the battery positive terminal.
- ⚠️ Dispose of used coolant properly at a recycling or hazardous-waste facility.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
- Plastic scraper
- Shop towels
- Funnel
- Coolant hydrometer or refractometer
- Torque wrench inch-pound range
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Mopar-compatible OAT coolant concentrate or premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon if using concentrate
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- ❄️ Let the engine cool for at least 2-3 hours before opening the cooling system.
- 🧤 Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves before handling coolant.
- 🪣 Place a drain pan under the front passenger-side lower radiator area before draining coolant.
- 📌 A thermostat is a spring-loaded valve that opens and closes to control coolant flow through the engine.
- 📌 A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured amount so the housing seals without cracking.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Let the Cooling System Cool
- Use your hand near, not on, the upper radiator hose to check for heat.
- Do not open the coolant reservoir cap until the hose and reservoir feel cool.
- Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves before touching any coolant parts.
- Cold engine only.
Step 2: Raise the Front If More Access Is Needed
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front lift point if extra room is needed.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Skip lifting if you can safely reach the radiator drain and lower front area from above or below.
Step 3: Remove the Engine Cover
- Use both hands to pull the plastic engine cover straight upward from the rubber mounts.
- Set the engine cover aside where it will not get stepped on.
Step 4: Relieve Any Remaining Pressure
- Use a shop towel over the coolant reservoir cap.
- Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise by hand until any pressure releases.
- Remove the cap fully only after no hissing is heard.
Step 5: Drain Some Coolant
- Place a drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the radiator drain area.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to open the radiator drain petcock if accessible.
- Drain about 1 gallon of coolant, or enough so the level is below the thermostat housing.
- If the drain petcock is hard to access, use hose clamp pliers to loosen the lower radiator hose clamp carefully and drain from the hose connection.
- Close the drain petcock with the flat-blade screwdriver after draining.
- Do not overtighten plastic drains.
Step 6: Locate the Thermostat Housing
- Find the upper radiator hose where it connects to the front of the engine.
- The thermostat sits inside the metal housing at that hose connection.
- Use shop towels around the housing to catch leftover coolant.
Step 7: Remove the Radiator Hose from the Housing
- Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the upper radiator hose clamp.
- Slide the clamp back onto the hose, away from the housing neck.
- Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver carefully at the hose edge only if stuck.
- Pull the hose off the thermostat housing and aim it into the drain pan.
- Do not gouge the hose.
Step 8: Remove the Thermostat Housing Bolts
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Support the housing with your free hand as the last bolt comes out.
- Pull the housing straight away from the engine.
- Note the thermostat direction before removing it; the spring side faces the engine.
Step 9: Remove the Old Thermostat and Seal
- Pull the old thermostat out by hand.
- Remove the old thermostat housing seal/O-ring by hand or with a plastic scraper.
- Use shop towels to clean coolant from the opening.
- Do not let old gasket pieces fall into the engine opening.
Step 10: Clean the Sealing Surfaces
- Use a plastic scraper to clean the housing and engine sealing surfaces.
- Wipe both surfaces dry with shop towels.
- Do not use a metal scraper because it can scratch the aluminum and cause leaks.
- Clean surfaces prevent leaks.
Step 11: Install the New Thermostat
- Install the new engine thermostat into the housing or engine opening in the same orientation as removed.
- Make sure the spring side faces into the engine.
- Install the new thermostat housing seal/O-ring fully into its groove by hand.
- If the thermostat has a small bleed jiggle valve, position it at the top.
Step 12: Reinstall the Thermostat Housing
- Hold the housing square against the engine by hand.
- Start both bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use an inch-pound torque wrench with a 13mm socket to tighten the housing bolts evenly.
- Torque to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs)
Step 13: Reconnect the Radiator Hose
- Push the upper radiator hose fully onto the thermostat housing neck by hand.
- Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamp back to its original position.
- Make sure the clamp sits behind the raised bead on the housing neck.
Step 14: Refill the Cooling System
- Use a funnel in the coolant reservoir opening.
- Add Mopar-compatible OAT coolant premix slowly until the reservoir reaches the COLD fill mark.
- If using concentrate, mix it 50/50 with distilled water before adding.
- Use a coolant hydrometer or refractometer to verify proper freeze protection if mixing coolant yourself.
- Reinstall the coolant reservoir cap by hand.
Step 15: Warm the Engine and Bleed Air
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to full hot and fan on low.
- Watch the temperature gauge while the engine warms up.
- Use safety glasses and inspect around the thermostat housing for leaks.
- Once the upper radiator hose gets hot, the thermostat has opened.
- Shut the engine off and let it cool completely.
Step 16: Recheck Coolant Level
- After the engine cools, remove the coolant reservoir cap by hand.
- Use a funnel to top off the coolant to the COLD fill mark if needed.
- Reinstall the cap by hand.
- Push the engine cover back onto its rubber mounts by hand.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Check for coolant leaks around the thermostat housing, hose connection, and radiator drain.
- ✅ Test drive your Grand Cherokee for 10-15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge.
- ✅ Let the engine cool fully, then recheck the coolant level one more time.
- ✅ Verify the cabin heater blows hot air at idle and while driving.
- ✅ If the temperature rises above normal, stop driving and recheck coolant level after the engine cools.
- ✅ Dispose of used coolant at a proper recycling or hazardous-waste location near Panipat.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 USD equivalent (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 USD equivalent (parts only)
You Save: $180-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Thermostat Replacement
Replacing the thermostat on your Grand Cherokee involves draining part of the coolant, removing the thermostat housing on the front of the 5.7L V8, installing a new thermostat and seal, then refilling and checking the cooling system. A thermostat is a temperature-controlled valve that helps the engine warm up and stay at the correct operating temperature.
Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only on a fully cold engine; hot coolant can spray out and burn you badly.
- ⚠️ Never remove the coolant reservoir cap while the engine is hot or pressurized.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; keep it away from children, pets, and open containers.
- ⚠️ If you raise the vehicle, support it with jack stands; never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for this thermostat replacement.
- ⚠️ Use only coolant compatible with Jeep/Mopar OAT coolant systems; mixing the wrong coolant can cause sludge and overheating.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 13mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- Inch-pound torque wrench
- Hose clamp pliers
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Plastic scraper
- Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Coolant hydrometer or refractometer
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Mopar-compatible OAT coolant premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon if using coolant concentrate
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- ❄️ Let the engine cool for at least 2-3 hours before opening the cooling system.
- 🧤 Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves before handling coolant.
- 🪣 Place a drain pan under the front passenger-side lower radiator area before draining coolant.
- 📌 A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a specific tightness so parts seal correctly without cracking.
- 📌 An O-ring is a round rubber seal that prevents coolant from leaking around the thermostat housing.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Make Sure the Engine Is Cold
- Use your hand near the upper radiator hose to check for heat without touching hot parts.
- If the hose or coolant reservoir feels warm, wait longer before starting.
- Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves before opening the cooling system.
- Cold engine only.
Step 2: Raise the Front If Needed
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front only if you need better access to the radiator drain.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
- If you can reach everything safely from above, you can skip lifting.
Step 3: Remove the Engine Cover
- Use both hands to pull the plastic engine cover straight upward from its rubber mounting grommets.
- Set the cover aside in a safe place.
Step 4: Remove the Coolant Reservoir Cap
- Use a shop towel over the coolant reservoir cap.
- Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise by hand to release any tiny amount of leftover pressure.
- Remove the cap fully once there is no hissing sound.
Step 5: Drain Enough Coolant
- Place a drain pan 2-gallon minimum below the radiator drain area.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to open the radiator drain petcock if it is accessible.
- Drain about 1 gallon of coolant, or enough to lower the level below the thermostat housing.
- If the radiator drain is not accessible, use hose clamp pliers to loosen the lower radiator hose clamp carefully and drain from the hose connection.
- Close the drain petcock with the flat-blade screwdriver after draining.
- Plastic drains crack easily.
Step 6: Find the Thermostat Housing
- Follow the upper radiator hose to where it connects to the front of the engine.
- The thermostat is inside the housing at that connection.
- Use shop towels around the housing to catch small coolant spills.
Step 7: Disconnect the Upper Radiator Hose
- Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamp on the upper radiator hose.
- Slide the clamp backward onto the hose, away from the thermostat housing.
- Twist the hose gently by hand to loosen it from the housing neck.
- If it is stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver carefully at the hose edge to help break the seal.
- Pull the hose off the thermostat housing and aim any coolant into the drain pan.
- Do not puncture the hose.
Step 8: Remove the Thermostat Housing
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Hold the housing with your free hand while removing the last bolt.
- Pull the housing straight away from the engine.
- Note the thermostat position before removal; the spring side faces the engine.
Step 9: Remove the Old Thermostat and Seal
- Pull the old thermostat out by hand.
- Remove the old thermostat housing seal/O-ring by hand.
- Use a plastic scraper only if the seal is stuck.
- Use shop towels to keep debris and coolant from falling into the engine opening.
Step 10: Clean the Sealing Surfaces
- Use a plastic scraper to gently clean the thermostat housing and engine sealing surfaces.
- Use shop towels to wipe both surfaces clean and dry.
- Do not use a metal scraper because scratches can cause coolant leaks.
- Clean and dry seals best.
Step 11: Install the New Thermostat
- Install the new engine thermostat in the same direction as the old one.
- Make sure the spring side faces into the engine.
- Install the new thermostat housing seal/O-ring into the groove by hand.
- If the thermostat has a small bleed valve, place it at the top.
Step 12: Reinstall the Thermostat Housing
- Hold the thermostat housing squarely against the engine by hand.
- Start both housing bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use an inch-pound torque wrench with a 13mm socket to tighten the housing bolts.
- Torque to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs)
Step 13: Reconnect the Upper Radiator Hose
- Push the upper radiator hose fully onto the thermostat housing neck by hand.
- Use hose clamp pliers to move the spring clamp back to its original position.
- Make sure the clamp sits behind the raised lip on the housing neck.
Step 14: Refill the Cooling System
- Place a funnel in the coolant reservoir opening.
- Add Mopar-compatible OAT coolant premix slowly until the reservoir reaches the COLD fill mark.
- If using concentrate, mix it 50/50 with distilled water before pouring it in.
- Use a coolant hydrometer or refractometer to check freeze protection if you mixed coolant yourself.
- Install the coolant reservoir cap by hand.
Step 15: Warm Up and Check for Leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Set the heater to full hot and the blower fan to low.
- Use safety glasses and inspect the thermostat housing, hose connection, and radiator drain for leaks.
- Watch the temperature gauge. Shut the engine off if it rises above normal.
- When the upper radiator hose gets hot, the thermostat has opened and coolant is flowing.
Step 16: Cool Down and Top Off
- Shut the engine off and let it cool completely.
- Use a shop towel to remove the coolant reservoir cap by hand.
- Use a funnel to add coolant to the COLD fill mark if the level dropped.
- Reinstall the cap by hand.
- Push the engine cover back onto its rubber mounts by hand.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Test drive your Grand Cherokee for 10-15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge.
- ✅ Confirm the cabin heater blows hot air at idle and while driving.
- ✅ Recheck for leaks after the test drive.
- ✅ Let the engine cool fully, then recheck the coolant level one final time.
- ✅ Dispose of old coolant at a proper recycling or hazardous-waste facility.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 USD equivalent (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 USD equivalent (parts only)
You Save: $180-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
