How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Coolant Leak/Overheating Fix)
Step-by-step thermostat housing replacement with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleed steps, and torque specs
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Coolant Leak/Overheating Fix)
Step-by-step thermostat housing replacement with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleed steps, and torque specs
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Thermostat Replacement
The thermostat controls coolant flow to keep your Grand Cherokee at the correct operating temperature. If it sticks open you’ll get slow warm-up/poor heat, and if it sticks closed you can overheat—replacing it restores proper temperature control.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise the front; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—keep it off skin, away from pets, and dispose of it properly.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/clothes clear of the cooling fan area.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Funnel
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" extension
- 6" extension
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Trim clip tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat with housing seal - Qty: 1
- HOAT/OAT engine coolant compatible with your Grand Cherokee (50/50 premix) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Hose clamp (lower radiator hose, if original clamp is weak) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (at least 1-2 hours).
- Set the HVAC to full heat later during bleeding (helps move coolant through the heater core).
- If you raise the front, lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the approved lift points.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve pressure and prep for draining
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand only after the engine is fully cool.
- Place a drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator drain area.
Step 2: Drain coolant to below thermostat level
- If equipped with a lower splash shield, remove the fasteners using a trim clip tool and 8mm socket.
- Drain coolant from the radiator drain (petcock) into the drain pan.
- Tip: Drain slowly to reduce spills.
Step 3: Remove the air intake ducting (for access)
- Loosen the intake clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Remove any intake/engine cover fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Lift the intake ducting out and set it aside.
Step 4: Remove the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing
- Move the hose clamp back using hose clamp pliers.
- Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off.
- Catch any remaining coolant with the drain pan and use shop towels to wipe spills.
Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing
- Locate the thermostat housing at the front of the engine where the lower radiator hose connects.
- Remove the housing bolts using a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension.
- Pull the housing/thermostat assembly straight off.
- Remove the old seal/O-ring and clean the mating surface using shop towels (no gouging).
Step 6: Install the new thermostat and housing seal
- Install the new seal/O-ring on the new thermostat housing (or thermostat, depending on the part design).
- Position the new thermostat housing in place and hand-start all bolts.
- Tighten evenly using a torque wrench (a torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact setting so you don’t crack the housing).
- Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
Step 7: Reinstall the lower radiator hose and intake ducting
- Reinstall the lower radiator hose and position the clamp using hose clamp pliers.
- Reinstall the intake ducting and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall any covers/brackets using a 10mm socket.
Step 8: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill the coolant reservoir with the correct coolant mix.
- If your Grand Cherokee has a coolant bleed screw near the thermostat/water outlet, open it with an 8mm socket until coolant flows without bubbles, then close it.
- Start the engine and set HVAC to maximum heat; let it idle while you watch the temperature gauge.
- As the engine warms up, add coolant as needed using the funnel (do not overfill).
- When the radiator hose gets hot and you have steady heat from the vents, shut the engine off and let it cool, then recheck the level and top off.
✅ After Repair
- Check carefully for leaks around the thermostat housing and the lower hose connection with the engine running.
- Verify the temperature gauge rises normally and stays stable during a 10-15 minute drive.
- After a full cool-down, recheck coolant level and add if needed.
- If you get a check engine light or overheating, stop driving and recheck bleeding and hose clamp seating.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $170-$590 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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