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2018 Ford F-150
2011 - 2023 Ford F-150
V6 3.5L
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  • Guides
  • Ford F-150
  • 2018
  • How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2011-2023 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 (Engine: V6 3.5L)
2017-2021 F150 Thermostat Replacement.

2017-2021 F150 Thermostat Replacement.

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8mm
8mm
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or (5/16")
10mm
10mm
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or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
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3/8
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How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2011-2023 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step coolant thermostat guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and bleeding tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2011-2023 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step coolant thermostat guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and bleeding tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

Orion
Orion

๐Ÿ”ง F-150 - Thermostat Replacement

Replacing the thermostat on your F-150 means draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing at the front of the engine, installing the new thermostat and seal, then refilling and bleeding the cooling system. A stuck thermostat can cause overheating, slow warm-up, poor heater performance, or temperature swings.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


โš ๏ธ Safety & Precautions

  • โš ๏ธ Only work on the cooling system when the engine is fully cold; hot coolant can spray out and cause severe burns.
  • ๐Ÿงค Wear safety glasses and gloves because coolant is slippery, toxic, and irritating to skin and eyes.
  • ๐Ÿพ Keep coolant away from children and pets; even small amounts can be dangerous if swallowed.
  • ๐Ÿ”‹ Battery disconnect is not normally required for this thermostat replacement.
  • โ™ป๏ธ Catch all drained coolant in a clean drain pan and recycle or dispose of it properly according to local rules.

๐Ÿ”ง Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3-inch socket extension
  • Torque wrench reading inch-pounds
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Drain pan rated 2-gallon minimum
  • Plastic trim clip tool
  • Funnel with narrow spout
  • Shop towels
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

๐Ÿ”ฉ Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine coolant thermostat - Qty: 1
  • Thermostat seal or O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Motorcraft Orange-compatible engine coolant concentrate - Qty: 1 gallon
  • Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

๐Ÿ“‹ Before You Begin

  • ๐Ÿš— Park your F-150 on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • โ„๏ธ Let the engine sit until completely cold, preferably overnight.
  • ๐ŸงŠ Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap only after the engine is cold to release any remaining pressure.
  • ๐Ÿงฐ A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact tightness so small aluminum parts are not cracked.
  • ๐Ÿงช Use the same coolant type already in the truck; do not mix coolant types if the system has been changed before.
  • ๐Ÿ“Œ Assumption: your F-150 still uses the factory-style 5.0L thermostat housing and coolant layout.

๐Ÿ”จ Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Air Intake Duct

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket to loosen the hose clamps on the air intake tube.
  • Disconnect any small breather hose attached to the intake duct by hand.
  • Lift the intake duct out of the way to give yourself room at the front of the engine.
  • Take a photo before removing parts.

Step 2: Relieve Cooling System Pressure

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Make sure the engine is cold.
  • Slowly turn the coolant reservoir cap counterclockwise by hand.
  • If you hear pressure escaping, stop and wait until the sound ends before removing the cap fully.

Step 3: Drain Some Coolant

  • Place a drain pan rated 2-gallon minimum under the radiator drain area.
  • Use your hand or flat-blade screwdriver as needed to open the radiator drain petcock if accessible.
  • Drain about 1 gallon of coolant, or enough so the coolant level drops below the thermostat housing.
  • If the drain petcock is difficult to access, use hose clamp pliers to loosen the lower radiator hose clamp slightly and drain carefully from the hose connection.
  • Close the radiator drain petcock by hand once enough coolant has drained.

Step 4: Locate the Thermostat Housing

  • Follow the upper radiator hose to where it connects to the front of the 5.0L engine.
  • The thermostat sits inside the housing at this hose connection.
  • Use shop towels around the housing area to catch coolant drips.

Step 5: Move the Upper Radiator Hose Aside

  • Use hose clamp pliers to compress the spring clamp on the upper radiator hose.
  • Slide the clamp back onto the hose.
  • Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose.
  • Pull the hose off the thermostat housing.
  • If stuck, use a plastic trim clip tool carefully between the hose and housing; do not cut or gouge the hose.

Step 6: Remove the Thermostat Housing

  • Use a 10mm socket, 3-inch socket extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
  • Pull the housing straight away from the engine.
  • Expect a small amount of coolant to spill into the drain pan rated 2-gallon minimum.
  • Set the housing on a clean towel.

Step 7: Remove the Old Thermostat and Seal

  • Pull the thermostat out by hand.
  • Remove the old seal or O-ring by hand or with a plastic trim clip tool.
  • Note the thermostat direction before removal; the spring side faces into the engine.
  • Spring side goes toward engine.

Step 8: Clean the Sealing Surfaces

  • Use shop towels to wipe the thermostat housing and engine sealing surfaces clean.
  • Do not scrape aggressively; the housing and engine surface can be damaged.
  • Make sure no old seal pieces remain.
  • The sealing surface is the flat area where the gasket or O-ring prevents leaks.

Step 9: Install the New Thermostat

  • Install the new engine coolant thermostat with the spring side facing into the engine.
  • Install the new thermostat seal or O-ring in the correct groove.
  • Make sure the thermostat sits flat and does not pinch the seal.

Step 10: Reinstall the Thermostat Housing

  • Set the thermostat housing back in place by hand.
  • Start all housing bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 3-inch socket extension, and torque wrench reading inch-pounds to tighten the bolts evenly.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Do not overtighten; the housing can crack.

Step 11: Reinstall the Upper Radiator Hose

  • Push the upper radiator hose fully onto the thermostat housing by hand.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to move the spring clamp back to its original position.
  • Make sure the clamp sits behind the raised bead on the housing neck.

Step 12: Reinstall the Air Intake Duct

  • Set the air intake duct back in place.
  • Reconnect any breather hose by hand.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket to tighten the intake hose clamps snugly.

Step 13: Refill the Coolant

  • Use a funnel with narrow spout to refill the coolant reservoir.
  • Add a 50/50 mix of Motorcraft Orange-compatible engine coolant concentrate and distilled water, unless using pre-mixed coolant.
  • Fill to the cold fill line on the coolant reservoir.
  • Install the coolant reservoir cap by hand.

Step 14: Bleed Air from the Cooling System

  • Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to full hot and fan on low.
  • Watch the temperature gauge while the engine warms up.
  • After the thermostat opens, the upper radiator hose will become hot and coolant level may drop.
  • Shut the engine off and let it cool fully.
  • Use the funnel with narrow spout to top off the reservoir to the cold fill line.

โœ… After Repair

  • โœ… Check around the thermostat housing and upper radiator hose for leaks while the engine idles.
  • ๐ŸŒก๏ธ Confirm the temperature gauge reaches normal range and stays steady.
  • ๐Ÿ”ฅ Confirm the cabin heater blows hot air at idle.
  • ๐ŸงŠ After the engine cools completely, recheck the coolant level and top off if needed.
  • ๐Ÿš— Test drive your F-150 for 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks.
  • โ™ป๏ธ Store old coolant in a sealed container and take it to a recycling or hazardous waste facility.

๐Ÿ’ฐ DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 parts + labor

DIY Cost: $45-$120 parts only

You Save: $175-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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