How to Replace the Thermostat Housing on a 2016 Hyundai Tucson (Cooling System Repair)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleed steps, and safety tips for 2016
How to Replace the Thermostat Housing on a 2016 Hyundai Tucson (Cooling System Repair)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleed steps, and safety tips for 2016
🔧 Tucson - Thermostat Replacement
The thermostat controls coolant flow to keep your engine at the correct temperature. If it’s stuck open you may get low heat and poor fuel economy; if it’s stuck closed the engine can overheat. On your Tucson, the thermostat is serviced at the thermostat housing and requires draining and refilling coolant.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
Assumption: This is the 1.6T thermostat/housing service at the engine-side coolant outlet.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work only on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- Keep hands clear of the cooling fan; it can turn on automatically.
- Use jack stands if you raise the front; never rely on a jack alone.
- Clean spills immediately; coolant is toxic to people and pets.
- Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be working close to the radiator fan wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" extension
- Torque wrench (in-lb or Nm scale)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat (with housing, if equipped) - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing gasket/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Hyundai/Kia P-OAT compatible, premixed 50/50) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Replacement hose clamps - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (upper radiator hose should feel cool).
- If raising the front, use a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper lift points.
- Set the HVAC to full HOT during bleeding later (this opens the heater circuit for better air removal).
- If you choose to disconnect the battery, use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a floor jack and jack stands to safely raise and support the front if needed.
- Use a trim clip remover and 10mm socket to remove clips/bolts from the lower splash shield.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in a tray.
Step 2: Drain coolant to below thermostat level
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Use a flathead screwdriver (or by hand, depending on style) to open the radiator drain cock slowly.
- Drain enough coolant so the level is below the thermostat housing (usually 1-2 liters).
- Close the drain cock securely when done.
Step 3: Gain access to the thermostat housing
- Open the hood and remove any ducting that blocks access.
- Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen hose clamps on intake ducting, then lift the ducting out.
- Tip: Take a quick photo before removing hoses.
Step 4: Disconnect coolant hose(s) from the thermostat housing
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress and slide the clamp back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off.
- If it’s stubborn, use a pick tool carefully to loosen the hose edge without gouging the plastic/metal neck.
- Catch any remaining coolant with the drain pan and shop towels.
Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing
- Unplug any nearby electrical connector(s) that prevent access (press the lock tab by hand; use a pick tool gently if needed).
- Use a 10mm socket (and extension if needed) to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Remove the housing and thermostat assembly.
- Note: More coolant will spill when the housing opens—keep the drain pan positioned.
Step 6: Clean the sealing surfaces
- Use shop towels to wipe the mating surface on the engine and the housing.
- Remove old gasket/O-ring material completely.
- Do not scratch aluminum surfaces; avoid aggressive scraping.
Step 7: Install the new thermostat and gasket/O-ring
- Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new thermostat/housing as designed.
- Position the thermostat/housing on the engine correctly (align bolt holes evenly).
- Hand-thread the bolts first to avoid cross-threading.
Step 8: Tighten the thermostat housing bolts
- Use a 10mm socket to snug bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Use a torque wrench to finish tightening: Torque to OEM specification.
- Tip: Overtightening can crack housings.
Step 9: Reconnect hose(s) and connectors
- Push the hose(s) fully onto the thermostat neck(s).
- Use hose clamp pliers to position clamps back in the original locations.
- Reconnect any electrical connector(s) until they click.
Step 10: Refill coolant
- Use a funnel to fill the coolant reservoir (and radiator fill point if accessible) with Hyundai/Kia P-OAT compatible premixed 50/50 coolant.
- Fill to the MAX line on the reservoir.
Step 11: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Set HVAC to full HOT with the fan on low.
- Watch the temperature gauge; it should rise normally and stabilize.
- As the engine warms, add coolant with the funnel as the level drops.
- When you feel steady heat from the vents and the upper radiator hose gets hot, the thermostat has opened.
- Let it idle a few more minutes, then shut off and allow it to cool fully.
Step 12: Reinstall the splash shield and intake ducting
- Reinstall ducting and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
- Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Once fully cool, recheck the reservoir level and top off to MAX using the correct coolant.
- Inspect for leaks around the thermostat housing and hose connections with a flashlight.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks and verify the heater blows hot.
- Over the next 2-3 drives, recheck coolant level each morning (engine cold) and top off as needed.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (most parts stores accept waste fluids).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$840 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















