How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2018-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Standard Cab Pickup)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2018-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Standard Cab Pickup)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 F-150 - Starter Motor Replacement
Replacing the starter motor on your F-150 involves disconnecting the battery, safely raising the truck, removing the starter wiring, and swapping the starter from the passenger-side lower engine area. The starter is a high-current electrical part, so battery disconnection is required before touching any starter cables.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working on the starter. The large starter cable can spark heavily if grounded.
- ⚠️ Always support your F-150 with jack stands. Never crawl under a truck held only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before reaching near the starter area.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses because dirt and rust can fall while working underneath.
- ⚠️ Keep loose clothing, jewelry, and tools away from battery terminals and starter wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 3/8-inch drive swivel adapter
- Torque wrench 10-80 ft-lb range
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip remover
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if corroded or damaged
- Battery terminal protector spray - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your F-150 on a flat, solid surface.
- Shift the transmission to Park and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool fully before working underneath.
- A swivel adapter lets a socket angle slightly so you can reach tight bolts.
- A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness without guessing.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Open the hood and locate the battery.
- Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Remove the negative cable from the battery post and move it aside so it cannot touch the post again.
- Negative cable comes off first.
Step 2: Raise the Front of the Truck
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your F-150 at the front crossmember.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front frame rails.
- Slowly lower the truck onto the jack stands.
- Keep the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Gently push the truck by hand to make sure it is stable before crawling underneath.
Step 3: Remove the Lower Shield If Equipped
- Use a work light to inspect the lower passenger side of the engine area.
- If a splash shield blocks access, use a trim clip remover to remove plastic push clips.
- Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any small shield bolts.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.
Step 4: Locate the Starter Motor
- Slide under the passenger side with a work light.
- Find the starter mounted low where the engine meets the transmission housing.
- The starter is a round electric motor with one large battery cable and one smaller control wire attached.
Step 5: Disconnect the Starter Wiring
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently move the rubber protective boot off the large starter terminal.
- Use a 13mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the nut from the large battery cable terminal.
- Pull the large cable off the starter stud and move it aside.
- Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the nut from the smaller control wire if it uses a nut.
- If the small wire uses a push connector, press the locking tab by hand and pull the connector straight off.
- Do not pull on the wire itself. Pull only on the connector or terminal end.
- Take a photo before removal.
Step 6: Remove the Starter Mounting Bolts
- Support the starter with one hand so it does not drop when the bolts are removed.
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the lower starter mounting bolt.
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive swivel adapter, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the upper starter mounting bolt.
- Remove both bolts fully.
- Lower the starter out carefully.
Step 7: Compare the Old and New Starter
- Place the old and new starter motors side by side.
- Confirm the mounting holes, electrical terminals, and nose shape match.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver only if needed to carefully transfer a rubber protective boot.
- Do not install the new starter if the terminal layout or mounting shape is different.
Step 8: Install the New Starter
- Raise the new starter into position by hand.
- Thread both starter mounting bolts in by hand first.
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive swivel adapter to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a torque wrench 10-80 ft-lb range with a 13mm socket to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
- Start bolts by hand first.
Step 9: Reconnect the Starter Wiring
- Install the large battery cable onto the large starter terminal.
- Use a 13mm socket with the torque wrench 10-80 ft-lb range to tighten the large cable nut to Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- Install the small control wire onto its terminal.
- If it uses a nut, use a 10mm socket with the torque wrench 10-80 ft-lb range to tighten it to Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).
- If it uses a push connector, press it on until it clicks.
- Push the rubber boot back over the large terminal by hand.
- Check that the wires are not touching exhaust parts or sharp edges.
Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Shield If Removed
- Hold the splash shield in place by hand.
- Use a trim clip remover to help align the plastic push clips, then push the clips in by hand.
- Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall shield bolts.
- Tighten shield bolts snug only. Plastic shields can crack if overtightened.
Step 11: Lower the Truck
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower the truck slowly to the ground with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
Step 12: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the clamp until it cannot rotate by hand.
- Spray the terminal lightly with battery terminal protector spray.
✅ After Repair
- Start your F-150 and listen for smooth cranking.
- If you hear only one click, recheck the large starter cable and battery terminals.
- If you hear grinding, shut the engine off immediately and recheck starter mounting.
- Confirm no battery warning light stays on after startup.
- Reset clock, radio presets, and one-touch window operation if needed after the battery disconnect.
- After a short drive, recheck underneath for loose shields or wiring near the exhaust.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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