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2018 Ford F-150
2018 - 2020 Ford F-150
King Ranch V8 5.0L Crew Cab Pickup
Compatible with more variants.

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  • Ford F-150
  • 2018
  • How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2018-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Standard Cab Pickup)
2018 Ford F 150 Starter Replacement

2018 Ford F 150 Starter Replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
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How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2018-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Standard Cab Pickup)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2018-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Standard Cab Pickup)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 F-150 - Starter Motor Replacement

Replacing the starter motor on your F-150 involves disconnecting the battery, safely raising the truck, removing the starter wiring, and swapping the starter from the passenger-side lower engine area. The starter is a high-current electrical part, so battery disconnection is required before touching any starter cables.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working on the starter. The large starter cable can spark heavily if grounded.
  • ⚠️ Always support your F-150 with jack stands. Never crawl under a truck held only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before reaching near the starter area.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses because dirt and rust can fall while working underneath.
  • ⚠️ Keep loose clothing, jewelry, and tools away from battery terminals and starter wiring.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
  • 3/8-inch drive swivel adapter
  • Torque wrench 10-80 ft-lb range
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim clip remover
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Work light

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Starter motor - Qty: 1
  • Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if corroded or damaged
  • Battery terminal protector spray - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your F-150 on a flat, solid surface.
  • Shift the transmission to Park and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool fully before working underneath.
  • A swivel adapter lets a socket angle slightly so you can reach tight bolts.
  • A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness without guessing.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

  • Open the hood and locate the battery.
  • Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Remove the negative cable from the battery post and move it aside so it cannot touch the post again.
  • Negative cable comes off first.

Step 2: Raise the Front of the Truck

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your F-150 at the front crossmember.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front frame rails.
  • Slowly lower the truck onto the jack stands.
  • Keep the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Gently push the truck by hand to make sure it is stable before crawling underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Shield If Equipped

  • Use a work light to inspect the lower passenger side of the engine area.
  • If a splash shield blocks access, use a trim clip remover to remove plastic push clips.
  • Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any small shield bolts.
  • Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.

Step 4: Locate the Starter Motor

  • Slide under the passenger side with a work light.
  • Find the starter mounted low where the engine meets the transmission housing.
  • The starter is a round electric motor with one large battery cable and one smaller control wire attached.

Step 5: Disconnect the Starter Wiring

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently move the rubber protective boot off the large starter terminal.
  • Use a 13mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the nut from the large battery cable terminal.
  • Pull the large cable off the starter stud and move it aside.
  • Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the nut from the smaller control wire if it uses a nut.
  • If the small wire uses a push connector, press the locking tab by hand and pull the connector straight off.
  • Do not pull on the wire itself. Pull only on the connector or terminal end.
  • Take a photo before removal.

Step 6: Remove the Starter Mounting Bolts

  • Support the starter with one hand so it does not drop when the bolts are removed.
  • Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the lower starter mounting bolt.
  • Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive swivel adapter, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the upper starter mounting bolt.
  • Remove both bolts fully.
  • Lower the starter out carefully.

Step 7: Compare the Old and New Starter

  • Place the old and new starter motors side by side.
  • Confirm the mounting holes, electrical terminals, and nose shape match.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver only if needed to carefully transfer a rubber protective boot.
  • Do not install the new starter if the terminal layout or mounting shape is different.

Step 8: Install the New Starter

  • Raise the new starter into position by hand.
  • Thread both starter mounting bolts in by hand first.
  • Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive swivel adapter to snug the bolts evenly.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-80 ft-lb range with a 13mm socket to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • Start bolts by hand first.

Step 9: Reconnect the Starter Wiring

  • Install the large battery cable onto the large starter terminal.
  • Use a 13mm socket with the torque wrench 10-80 ft-lb range to tighten the large cable nut to Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
  • Install the small control wire onto its terminal.
  • If it uses a nut, use a 10mm socket with the torque wrench 10-80 ft-lb range to tighten it to Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).
  • If it uses a push connector, press it on until it clicks.
  • Push the rubber boot back over the large terminal by hand.
  • Check that the wires are not touching exhaust parts or sharp edges.

Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Shield If Removed

  • Hold the splash shield in place by hand.
  • Use a trim clip remover to help align the plastic push clips, then push the clips in by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall shield bolts.
  • Tighten shield bolts snug only. Plastic shields can crack if overtightened.

Step 11: Lower the Truck

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower the truck slowly to the ground with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.

Step 12: Reconnect the Battery

  • Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
  • Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the clamp until it cannot rotate by hand.
  • Spray the terminal lightly with battery terminal protector spray.

✅ After Repair

  • Start your F-150 and listen for smooth cranking.
  • If you hear only one click, recheck the large starter cable and battery terminals.
  • If you hear grinding, shut the engine off immediately and recheck starter mounting.
  • Confirm no battery warning light stays on after startup.
  • Reset clock, radio presets, and one-touch window operation if needed after the battery disconnect.
  • After a short drive, recheck underneath for loose shields or wiring near the exhaust.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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