How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2017 Ford Escape
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2017 Ford Escape
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Starter Motor Replacement
Replacing the starter motor on your Escape means removing the faulty starter from the transmission side of the engine and installing a new one. The starter uses battery power to crank the engine, so a weak or failed starter can cause clicking, slow cranking, or a no-crank condition.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the starter wiring. The large starter cable is always battery-powered.
- ⚠️ Let the engine and exhaust cool fully before working underneath your Escape.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle held up by a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep the key out of the ignition while working.
- ⚠️ The starter is heavy for its size, so support it by hand when removing the last bolt.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 3/8-inch extension set
- 3/8-inch universal joint adapter
- 13mm wrench
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Torque wrench rated 10-100 Nm
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
- Battery terminal brush
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if damaged or corroded
- Electrical contact cleaner - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket. A negative battery cable is the black cable marked “-”.
- Wait at least 2 minutes after disconnecting the battery before working near the starter wiring.
- If your Escape has a radio preset or clock setting you want saved, note it before disconnecting the battery.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back.
- Use a battery terminal brush to clean the terminal if it has white or green corrosion.
- Power off first, always.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Put on safety glasses before working underneath.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove the lower shield fasteners.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic push clips. A trim clip tool is a small fork-shaped tool that lifts plastic clips without breaking them.
- Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
Step 4: Locate the Starter Motor
- From underneath, look toward the front/lower side of the engine where it meets the transmission bellhousing.
- The starter is a small cylindrical motor with one large battery cable and one smaller control wire attached.
- Use a work light if needed, but keep the light away from hot exhaust parts.
Step 5: Disconnect the Starter Wiring
- Use a 13mm socket or 13mm wrench to remove the nut holding the large battery cable to the starter terminal.
- Pull the large cable straight off the stud and move it aside.
- Use a 10mm socket or press the connector lock by hand to disconnect the smaller starter control wire, depending on connector style.
- Spray the terminals lightly with electrical contact cleaner if dirty.
- Take a photo before removal.
Step 6: Remove the Starter Mounting Bolts
- Support the starter with one hand before loosening the final bolt.
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 3/8-inch extension set to loosen the starter mounting bolts.
- If access is tight, use a 3/8-inch universal joint adapter. A universal joint adapter lets the socket turn at an angle.
- Remove both mounting bolts and keep them organized.
Step 7: Remove the Old Starter
- Carefully slide the starter away from the transmission bellhousing.
- Lower it out through the bottom of the engine bay.
- Compare the old starter to the new starter before installing. The mounting ears, electrical terminals, and gear nose must match.
Step 8: Install the New Starter
- Lift the new starter into position by hand.
- Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 3/8-inch extension set to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-100 Nm to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reconnect the Starter Wiring
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal area only. Dielectric grease helps keep moisture out of electrical connectors.
- Push the small control wire connector onto the starter until it clicks, or secure it with its nut if equipped.
- Install the large battery cable onto the starter terminal.
- Use a 13mm socket or 13mm wrench to tighten the large cable retaining nut to Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- Do not overtighten the terminal nut because the starter solenoid stud can crack.
Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- Position the splash shield back under the front of your Escape.
- Use a trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall any plastic clips.
- Use an 8mm socket to reinstall the shield fasteners.
- Tighten the splash shield fasteners snugly by hand; do not overtighten plastic fasteners.
Step 11: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower your Escape slowly to the ground.
Step 12: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the negative battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the terminal clamp to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
- Make sure the cable does not rotate on the battery post.
✅ After Repair
- Start your Escape and listen for a clean, fast crank with no grinding noise.
- If the engine does not crank, stop and recheck the battery terminals, starter cable, and control wire connection.
- Let the engine idle for a minute and confirm no warning lights remain on.
- Check that the lower splash shield is secure and not hanging down.
- Drive normally for a short test drive, then restart the engine once more to confirm the repair.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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