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2019 Toyota Tacoma
2016 - 2023 Toyota Tacoma
Limited V6 3.5L Crew Cab Pickup
Compatible with more variants.

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  • Guides
  • Toyota Tacoma
  • 2019
  • How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma (Trim: SR | Engine: Inline 4 2.7L | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)
EASY Starter Replacement (Tacoma DIY / How To)

EASY Starter Replacement (Tacoma DIY / How To)

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Ratchet
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How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma (Trim: SR | Engine: Inline 4 2.7L | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma (Trim: SR | Engine: Inline 4 2.7L | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

Orion
Orion

🔧 Tacoma - Starter Motor Replacement

Replacing the starter motor on your Tacoma means removing the failed starter from the passenger-side lower engine area and installing a new one. The starter uses high-current battery power, so the battery must be disconnected before touching the starter wiring.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. The starter cable is always capable of carrying very high current.
  • ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working underneath. The starter sits near hot exhaust components.
  • ⚠️ Support your Tacoma with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle held up by a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses because dirt and rust can fall while working underneath.
  • ⚠️ The starter is heavy for its size. Support it with one hand while removing the last bolt.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
  • 3/8-inch drive 12-inch extension
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Shop light

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Starter motor - Qty: 1
  • Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, if damaged or corroded
  • Battery terminal protectant - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Tacoma on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • 🔋 Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • ⏱️ Wait at least 2 minutes after disconnecting the battery before working near major electrical cables.
  • 💡 A starter motor is the electric motor that cranks the engine when you turn the key.
  • 🔧 A breaker bar is a long-handled ratchet used to loosen tight bolts with more leverage.
  • 🔧 A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured amount so they are not too loose or too tight.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Front

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to lift the front of your Tacoma.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front frame support points.
  • Gently lower the truck onto the jack stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.
  • Keep the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Never trust the jack alone.

Step 2: Remove the Front Skid Plate or Splash Shield

  • Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
  • Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the skid plate bolts, if equipped.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to remove plastic splash shield clips, if equipped.
  • Lower the shield carefully and set it aside.

Step 3: Locate the Starter

  • Use a shop light and look on the passenger side of the engine, low near the transmission bellhousing.
  • The starter is a small cylindrical motor attached where the engine meets the transmission.
  • Identify the large battery cable terminal and the smaller signal wire connector on the starter.

Step 4: Disconnect the Starter Wiring

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to release the small starter signal wire connector tab, then pull the connector straight off.
  • Use a 12mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the nut holding the large battery cable to the starter terminal.
  • Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the starter terminal.
  • Keep the terminal nut safe if the replacement starter does not include one.
  • Take a photo before removal.

Step 5: Remove the Starter Mounting Bolts

  • Support the starter with one hand before loosening the final bolt.
  • Use a 14mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 12-inch extension as needed to loosen the two starter mounting bolts.
  • If a bolt is tight, use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar with the 14mm socket to break it loose.
  • Remove both bolts and carefully lower the starter out of the vehicle.
  • Do not let it drop.

Step 6: Compare the Old and New Starter

  • Place both starters side by side on the ground.
  • Check that the mounting ears, electrical terminals, gear position, and overall shape match.
  • Use a shop light to inspect the engine mounting surface and wipe away dirt with a clean rag.

Step 7: Install the New Starter

  • Raise the new starter into position by hand.
  • Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 14mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 12-inch extension to snug both bolts evenly.
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs with the 14mm socket to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the Starter Wiring

  • Install the large battery cable onto the starter terminal.
  • Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs to tighten the starter terminal nut to Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs).
  • Push the small starter signal wire connector onto the starter until it clicks.
  • Gently tug the connector by hand to make sure it is locked.
  • A loose wire can mimic a bad starter.

Step 9: Reinstall the Skid Plate or Splash Shield

  • Lift the skid plate or splash shield back into place by hand.
  • Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to install the skid plate bolts.
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs with the 12mm socket to tighten skid plate bolts to Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs), if equipped with factory skid plate bolts.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall any plastic clips.

Step 10: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift your Tacoma slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower the truck slowly to the ground with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Use battery terminal protectant on the terminal after it is tight.
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs with the 10mm socket to tighten the battery terminal nut to Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start your Tacoma and listen for a strong, smooth crank.
  • ✅ Turn the engine off and restart it 2-3 times to confirm consistent operation.
  • ✅ Check that the battery warning light is off after the engine starts.
  • ✅ Recheck under the truck for loose shields, hanging wires, or abnormal noises.
  • ✅ If the engine still will not crank, inspect battery charge, starter relay, neutral safety circuit, and ground connections before replacing more parts.
  • ✅ After battery disconnect, reset the clock and radio presets if needed.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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