How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2015-2025 Ram 1500 3.6L eTorque (Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and wiring checks for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2015-2025 Ram 1500 3.6L eTorque (Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and wiring checks for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
🔧 1500 - Starter Motor Replacement
This repair replaces the starter motor, which cranks the engine when you press the Start button. On your 1500 with the 3.6L eTorque mild-hybrid system, the starter is mounted low on the engine and requires careful battery isolation before removal.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the 12-volt battery before touching the starter wiring. The main starter cable is always hot when connected.
- ⚠️ Your 1500 has a mild-hybrid eTorque system. Do not touch or disconnect any orange high-voltage cables or components.
- ⚠️ Let the engine and exhaust cool fully before working underneath. The starter sits near hot engine and exhaust areas.
- ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle supported by a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Dirt and rust can fall while working under the truck.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 3/8-inch drive swivel socket adapter
- Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
- Flathead screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Battery terminal puller (specialty)
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
- Shop light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if damaged or corroded
- Battery terminal protector spray - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your 1500 on level ground.
- Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- A battery terminal puller is a small tool that lifts a tight battery cable off the post without twisting or damaging it.
- A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not loose or over-tightened.
- Do not disconnect orange eTorque cables. Only disconnect the regular 12-volt battery negative cable.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the 12-Volt Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post. Use a battery terminal puller if it is stuck.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back and touch the battery post.
- Wait at least 5 minutes before working on the starter wiring.
- Take a photo first.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Truck
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the front frame crossmember or approved front lift point.
- Raise the front high enough to work safely underneath.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
- Gently lower the truck onto the jack stands and shake the truck lightly to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield if Equipped
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic push clips from the lower shield if equipped.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any small shield bolts.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.
- Keep clips in a cup.
Step 4: Locate the Starter Motor
- Use a shop light and look low on the engine near the transmission bellhousing on the passenger side area.
- The starter is a small cylindrical motor with a large battery cable and a smaller control wire attached.
- Before removal, take a clear picture of the wire routing with your phone.
Step 5: Remove the Starter Electrical Connections
- Use a flathead screwdriver to gently release the locking tab on the small starter control wire connector.
- Pull the connector straight off. Do not pull on the wire itself.
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut holding the large battery cable to the starter solenoid.
- The solenoid is the smaller cylinder attached to the starter that moves the starter gear and powers the starter motor.
- Move the large cable aside without bending it sharply.
Step 6: Remove the Starter Mounting Bolts
- Support the starter with one hand before removing the bolts. It is heavier than it looks.
- Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, 6-inch extension, and swivel socket adapter to loosen the starter mounting bolts.
- A swivel adapter lets the socket bend slightly so you can reach bolts at an angle.
- Remove the lower bolt first, then remove the upper bolt while holding the starter.
- Slide the starter out of the bellhousing opening and lower it carefully.
Step 7: Compare the Old and New Starter
- Place both starters side by side on the floor.
- Check that the mounting ears, electrical posts, connector location, and starter gear match.
- Use a shop light to inspect the starter mounting surface on the engine.
- Wipe away dirt by hand with gloves. Do not sand wiring terminals aggressively.
Step 8: Install the New Starter
- Lift the new starter into place by hand and align it with the bellhousing opening.
- Start both mounting bolts by hand first. This prevents cross-threading.
- Use a 15mm socket, ratchet, extension, and swivel socket adapter to snug both bolts evenly.
- Use a torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs with the 15mm socket to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
- Start bolts by hand.
Step 9: Reconnect the Starter Wiring
- Place the large battery cable back onto the starter solenoid post.
- Use a 13mm socket to install the retaining nut.
- Use a torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs with the 13mm socket to tighten the nut to Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- Push the small control wire connector onto the starter until it clicks.
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease around the connector seal if needed. Dielectric grease helps keep moisture out of electrical connectors.
Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- Raise the shield into position by hand.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any shield bolts.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall plastic push clips.
- Do not over-tighten plastic shield fasteners.
Step 11: Lower the Truck
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower the truck slowly to the ground.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
Step 12: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the negative terminal clamp.
- Tighten the clamp snugly. Do not crush the terminal.
- Apply battery terminal protector spray to the terminal after tightening.
✅ After Repair
- Press the brake pedal and start your 1500 normally.
- Listen for a clean, quick crank. Grinding, clicking, or slow cranking means stop and recheck the starter mounting and wiring.
- Check that the battery warning light is off after the engine starts.
- Inspect under the truck to confirm no wires are touching hot exhaust or moving parts.
- Some radio, clock, and window auto-up settings may need to relearn after the battery disconnect.
- If the engine does not crank, recheck the negative battery terminal, large starter cable, and small control connector first.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $550-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $300-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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