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2019 GMC Canyon
2015 - 2020 GMC Canyon
Base Inline 4 2.5L Crew Cab Pickup
Compatible with more variants.

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  • Guides
  • GMC Canyon
  • 2019
  • How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2015-2022 GMC Canyon (Trim: Base | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)
The fast way to replace a starter on 1st Generation GMC Canyon or Chevy Colorado

The fast way to replace a starter on 1st Generation GMC Canyon or Chevy Colorado

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10mm
10mm
Wrench
or (3/8")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
3/8
3/8
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How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2015-2022 GMC Canyon (Trim: Base | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2015-2022 GMC Canyon (Trim: Base | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Canyon - Starter Motor Replacement

Replacing the starter motor on your Canyon means removing the failed starter from the lower engine area and installing a new one so the engine can crank normally. The starter is an electric motor that turns the engine when you turn the key or press the start command.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the starter wiring. The large starter cable is always battery-powered.
  • ⚠️ Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before working underneath the truck.
  • ⚠️ Support your Canyon with jack stands only. Never rely on a floor jack by itself.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses because dirt and rust can fall while working underneath.
  • ⚠️ Keep track of starter shims if present. Reinstall them the same way to prevent starter gear noise.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive extension set
  • Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim clip remover
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Battery terminal brush

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Starter motor - Qty: 1
  • Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if damaged or heavily corroded
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on a level surface, shift to Park or Neutral depending on transmission, and set the parking brake.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
  • 🔋 Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench. Move the cable away so it cannot spring back to the battery post.
  • 🧰 A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a measured amount so they are not too loose or too tight.
  • 🧴 Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease used around electrical boots to help keep moisture out.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Front

  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Canyon at the front frame crossmember.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
  • Gently lower the truck onto the stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.
  • Keep the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Stable support is your first safety step.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield if Equipped

  • Look under the front of the engine area for a plastic lower shield.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any bolts.
  • Use a trim clip remover or flat-blade screwdriver to release plastic clips without breaking them.
  • Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.

Step 3: Locate the Starter

  • From underneath, find the starter mounted low on the engine where the engine meets the transmission bellhousing.
  • The bellhousing is the large round transmission housing behind the engine.
  • Confirm the negative battery cable is still disconnected before touching the starter wires.

Step 4: Remove the Starter Electrical Connections

  • Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive extension to remove the nut holding the large battery cable to the starter solenoid.
  • The solenoid is the small cylinder attached to the starter that switches battery power to the motor.
  • Pull the large cable straight off the stud and move it aside.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove the smaller control wire nut, if your replacement style uses a nut.
  • If the small wire uses a push-on connector, use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently release the lock tab and pull the connector off.
  • Inspect the cable ends for green corrosion or looseness.

Step 5: Support the Starter Before Removing Bolts

  • Hold the starter with one hand before removing the mounting bolts. It is heavier than it looks.
  • Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive extension to loosen the two starter mounting bolts.
  • Remove the lower bolt first, then remove the upper bolt while supporting the starter.
  • If any shim falls out, save it and note its position. A shim is a thin spacer used to adjust starter gear clearance.

Step 6: Remove the Old Starter

  • Lower the starter carefully out of the mounting area.
  • Compare the old starter to the new starter motor before installation.
  • Check that the mounting holes, electrical studs, and gear nose match.
  • Compare parts before crawling back under.

Step 7: Install the New Starter

  • Lift the new starter motor into position by hand.
  • Reinstall any original shim in the same location if one was present.
  • Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive extension to snug the bolts evenly.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs with the 15mm socket to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the Starter Wiring

  • Install the large battery cable onto the large starter solenoid stud.
  • Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs to tighten the large cable nut to Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
  • Install the small control wire.
  • If it uses a nut, use a 10mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs to tighten it to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
  • If it uses a push-on connector, push it on until the lock clicks.
  • Apply a small amount of dielectric grease around the rubber boots, not between metal contact surfaces.

Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

  • Position the lower shield back in place if removed.
  • Use a trim clip remover or your fingers to reinstall the clips.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to reinstall the bolts.
  • Tighten small splash shield bolts snug only. Do not overtighten plastic fasteners.

Step 10: Lower the Truck and Reconnect the Battery

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower your Canyon fully to the ground.
  • Clean the negative battery terminal with a battery terminal brush if it has corrosion.
  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
  • Tighten the terminal snugly so it cannot twist by hand.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start your Canyon and listen for a normal, clean crank sound.
  • ✅ If you hear grinding, stop immediately and recheck starter fitment and any shim placement.
  • ✅ Make sure the battery light goes out after the engine starts.
  • ✅ Check under the truck to confirm the starter wiring is not touching the exhaust or moving parts.
  • ✅ Some radio presets or clock settings may need to be reset after battery disconnect.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.


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