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2018 Chevrolet Impala
2014 - 2020 Chevrolet Impala
LT V6 3.6L Sedan
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  • Guides
  • Chevrolet Impala
  • 2018
  • How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2014-2020 Chevrolet Impala 3.6L V6 (Trim: LT | Engine: V6 3.6L | Body: Sedan)
2014-2020 Chevy impala Starter Replacement

2014-2020 Chevy impala Starter Replacement

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How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2014-2020 Chevrolet Impala 3.6L V6 (Trim: LT | Engine: V6 3.6L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step removal and installation guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2014-2020 Chevrolet Impala 3.6L V6 (Trim: LT | Engine: V6 3.6L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step removal and installation guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Impala - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor on your Impala sits in the engine valley beneath the upper intake manifold. Replacing it requires removing the air-intake duct and intake manifold, disconnecting the starter wiring, and then unbolting the starter.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: These instructions apply to the stock U.S.-market 3.6L V6 installation.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the starter wiring. The large starter cable remains live otherwise and can cause a fire.
  • 🔥 Let the engine cool completely before working around the intake manifold.
  • 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves because debris can fall into the exposed intake ports.
  • 🚫 Never crank the engine while the intake manifold is removed.
  • 🧹 Cover every exposed intake port immediately. A dropped nut or piece of dirt can cause severe engine damage.
  • 🔑 Keep the ignition switched off and the key or transmitter away from the vehicle.
  • ⚡ Do not allow a wrench to bridge the battery terminals or starter electrical terminals.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 1/4-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 Nm
  • 7mm socket
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 10mm deep socket
  • 13mm deep socket
  • 75mm socket extension
  • 150mm socket extension
  • Flat-blade screwdriver, 6mm tip
  • Plastic trim removal tool
  • 90-degree pick tool
  • Needle-nose pliers, 150mm
  • Magnetic pickup tool, 450mm
  • Parts cleaning brush, 25mm
  • Shop vacuum with 25mm nozzle
  • Masking tape, 25mm width
  • Permanent marker, fine-point
  • Fender cover, full-size
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Starter motor for 3.6L V6 - Qty: 1
  • Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
  • Throttle-body gasket - Qty: 1 if throttle body is removed
  • Electrical contact cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Impala on level ground, select Park, apply the parking brake, and open the hood.
  • 🌡️ Allow the engine to become completely cold.
  • 🔌 Switch off all electrical accessories. No infotainment service mode or scan-tool command is required.
  • 📷 Photograph the hose and connector routing before disassembly.
  • 🏷️ Label unfamiliar connectors with masking tape and a permanent marker.
  • 🧼 Clean loose dirt from the top of the engine before opening the intake system.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery-terminal clamp.
  • Lift the negative cable from the battery and position it where it cannot spring back onto the terminal.
  • Wait at least two minutes before disconnecting engine electrical connectors.

Step 2: Remove the Engine Appearance Cover

  • Remove the oil-filler cap by hand if it passes through the appearance cover.
  • Grip the cover near its mounting points and pull straight upward by hand to release its rubber retainers.
  • Reinstall the oil-filler cap immediately to keep debris out of the engine.
  • Pull near each mounting point, not the edges.

Step 3: Remove the Air-Intake Duct

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver with a 6mm tip or 7mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to loosen the duct clamps at the air cleaner and throttle body.
  • Use a plastic trim removal tool to release any retaining clip.
  • Disconnect the breather hose by pressing its locking tabs by hand. Use needle-nose pliers only if the tabs cannot be reached by hand.
  • Disconnect the intake-air sensor connector if it is attached to the duct.
  • Lift out the duct and cover the throttle opening with a clean shop towel.

Step 4: Disconnect Intake-Manifold Connections

  • Use the permanent marker and 25mm masking tape to label the throttle-body, manifold pressure sensor, EVAP purge, and other visible connectors.
  • Release connector locks with a 90-degree pick tool, then press the tabs and unplug the connectors by hand. Do not pull on the wires.
  • Disconnect the EVAP and vacuum lines by pressing their quick-release tabs by hand.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to release spring clamps only where fitted.
  • Move the wiring harness and hoses aside without stretching them.

Step 5: Remove Obstructing Brackets

  • Inspect the front and sides of the intake manifold for harness or line brackets.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 75mm extension, and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove the bracket fasteners.
  • Place each fastener beside its bracket so it returns to the same position.

Step 6: Remove the Upper Intake Manifold

  • Use a 10mm socket, 150mm extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the intake-manifold bolts gradually, working from the outside toward the center.
  • Confirm that every hose, connector, and bracket is free before lifting the manifold.
  • Lift the manifold straight upward by hand. Do not pry against the plastic sealing surfaces.
  • If the throttle body or a hose prevents removal, disconnect the obstruction rather than forcing the manifold.
  • Immediately cover all six intake ports securely with clean shop towels and 25mm masking tape.
  • Use a shop vacuum with 25mm nozzle and 25mm parts cleaning brush to remove loose debris around the covered ports.
  • Count every towel before final assembly.

Step 7: Expose and Identify the Starter

  • Locate the starter in the engine valley between the cylinder banks.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove any small wiring bracket obstructing the starter.
  • Use the permanent marker and masking tape to identify the large battery cable and small solenoid-control wire.

Step 8: Disconnect the Starter Wiring

  • Remove the protective cap from the large starter terminal by hand or with a 90-degree pick tool.
  • Use a 13mm deep socket, 75mm extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the large battery-cable terminal nut.
  • Use a 10mm deep socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove the small solenoid-terminal nut when a stud connection is fitted. If it uses a connector, release its lock with the 90-degree pick tool and unplug it by hand.
  • Move both wires away from the starter terminals.

Step 9: Remove the Starter Motor

  • Support the starter with one hand while using a 15mm socket, 150mm extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen its mounting bolts.
  • Remove the bolts and lift the starter from the engine valley.
  • Use a magnetic pickup tool if a bolt falls into an accessible recess. Never leave loose hardware in the valley.
  • Compare the old and replacement starters. The mounting flange, gear, electrical terminals, and nose length must match.

Step 10: Install the Replacement Starter

  • Lower the replacement starter into position by hand without striking its drive gear.
  • Start both mounting bolts several turns by hand to prevent crossed threads.
  • Use a 15mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the starter mounting bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
  • Verify that the starter sits flat against its mounting surface.

Step 11: Reconnect the Starter Wiring

  • Install the large battery cable squarely on its original terminal.
  • Use a 13mm deep socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the large terminal nut to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the small solenoid wire. If it uses a nut, use a 10mm deep socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench and tighten it to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
  • Reinstall the large terminal’s protective cap by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten removed wiring-bracket bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 12: Prepare the Intake Manifold

  • Remove the old manifold seals from the manifold by hand or with a plastic trim removal tool.
  • Clean the manifold sealing grooves with a clean shop towel. Do not use metal scrapers.
  • Install the new intake-manifold gaskets by hand, making sure each one lies flat in its groove.
  • Use the shop vacuum with 25mm nozzle to remove remaining loose debris around the intake ports.
  • Remove every shop towel and piece of tape from the six intake ports. Count them carefully.

Step 13: Reinstall the Intake Manifold

  • Lower the manifold straight onto the cylinder heads by hand without dislodging the new gaskets.
  • Start every manifold bolt by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 150mm extension, and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the bolts in stages, working from the center outward.
  • Torque the intake-manifold bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • If the throttle body was removed, fit a new gasket and use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten its fasteners evenly to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 14: Reconnect Hoses, Wiring, and Brackets

  • Reconnect every labeled electrical connector by hand until its lock clicks.
  • Reconnect all vacuum, EVAP, and breather hoses by hand. Lightly pull each connection to verify it is locked.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten removed bracket fasteners to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Check the photographs taken earlier and verify that no connector or hose remains loose.

Step 15: Reinstall the Air-Intake Duct

  • Remove the shop towel from the throttle opening.
  • Fit the intake duct fully over the throttle-body and air-cleaner outlets by hand.
  • Reconnect the breather hose and intake-air sensor connector by hand.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver with a 6mm tip or 7mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to tighten the clamps until the duct cannot rotate. Do not crush the plastic duct.

Step 16: Reinstall the Cover and Battery Cable

  • Remove the oil-filler cap by hand, align the appearance cover, and press it onto its retainers.
  • Reinstall the oil-filler cap by hand.
  • Place the negative battery clamp fully onto the battery terminal.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the negative battery-terminal clamp to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • 🔍 Inspect the engine compartment and confirm that all tools, towels, tape, and loose fasteners have been removed.
  • 🚗 Start the engine. The first crank may take slightly longer after the battery has been disconnected.
  • 👂 Listen for abnormal starter grinding. Release the start command immediately if grinding occurs.
  • 💨 Let the engine idle and listen for hissing or a high idle, which can indicate an intake vacuum leak.
  • ⚠️ Confirm that the charging-system and check-engine warning lights switch off normally.
  • 🪟 Restore the clock and automatic-window function if necessary. For a window reset, close it fully and hold the switch upward for several seconds.
  • 🛣️ Take a short drive, shut the engine off, and perform several normal restarts.
  • 🔧 If the engine runs roughly or sets an intake-related fault, switch it off and recheck every manifold seal, hose, and connector before driving farther.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹55,000-₹95,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹25,000-₹55,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹30,000-₹40,000 by doing it yourself!

Imported-vehicle parts and labor rates around Sonīpat vary considerably. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.


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