How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Starter Motor Replacement
Replacing the starter motor means removing the old electric motor that cranks the engine, then installing a new one. On your Escape, the starter is mounted low on the engine/transmission area, so access is mainly from underneath.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the starter wiring. The starter has a direct battery power cable.
- ⚠️ Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before working underneath.
- ⚠️ Support your Escape with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep the key out of the ignition while the battery is disconnected.
- ⚠️ If your Escape has underbody splash shields, remove them carefully so clips and fasteners do not break.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 3/8-inch drive universal joint
- Torque wrench, 3/8-inch drive
- Flat trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- Floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Work light
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if damaged or corroded
- Battery terminal protector spray - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground and shift the transmission into Park.
- Set the parking brake firmly.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that keep the vehicle from rolling.
- Open the hood and locate the battery.
- Write down radio presets if you want to save them before disconnecting the battery.
- Lift the front of your Escape only at approved jacking points, then set it securely on jack stands. Jack stands are metal supports that safely hold the vehicle up.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside so it cannot spring back.
- Wrap the cable end with a clean rag if needed.
- Tip: Negative is marked with “-”.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Use a floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape at the proper front jacking point.
- Set jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum under the approved support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
- Tip: Stability matters more than speed.
Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Put on safety glasses before working underneath.
- Use an 8mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the lower splash shield screws if equipped.
- Use a flat trim clip remover to release any plastic push clips. A trim clip remover is a flat fork-shaped tool that lifts plastic clips without breaking them.
- Lower the shield and set it aside.
Step 4: Locate the Starter Motor
- Use a work light to look toward the lower engine/transmission joint.
- The starter motor is a small cylindrical motor with a large battery cable and a smaller control wire attached to it.
- Confirm the negative battery cable is still disconnected before touching these wires.
Step 5: Disconnect the Starter Wiring
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the nut from the large starter battery cable terminal.
- Pull the large cable straight off the terminal and move it aside.
- Use a 10mm socket if the smaller starter control wire is retained by a nut.
- If the smaller wire uses a push-on connector, use a flathead screwdriver to gently release the locking tab and pull the connector off.
- Tip: Take a photo before removing wires.
Step 6: Remove the Starter Mounting Bolts
- Support the starter with one hand before removing the last bolt. It is heavier than it looks.
- Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive universal joint to remove the starter mounting bolts. A universal joint lets the socket work at an angle in tight spaces.
- Remove the lower bolt first if access allows, then remove the upper bolt.
- Lower the starter out of the vehicle carefully.
Step 7: Compare the Old and New Starter
- Place both starters side by side on the ground.
- Check that the mounting ears, electrical terminals, and gear nose shape match.
- Use a clean rag if needed to wipe dirt from the mounting surface on the engine/transmission area.
- Tip: Matching now prevents rework later.
Step 8: Install the New Starter
- Lift the new starter into position by hand.
- Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a torque wrench, 3/8-inch drive with the 15mm socket to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reconnect the Starter Wiring
- Install the large battery cable onto the large starter terminal.
- Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench, 3/8-inch drive to tighten the large terminal nut to Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the smaller starter control wire.
- If the small wire uses a nut, use a 10mm socket and torque wrench, 3/8-inch drive to tighten it to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
- Make sure both wires are secure and not touching the exhaust or moving parts.
Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- Raise the splash shield into place.
- Use a flat trim clip remover by hand to help align plastic clips if needed.
- Use an 8mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the screws snugly.
- Do not overtighten plastic shield fasteners.
Step 11: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower your Escape slowly to the ground with the floor jack.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
Step 12: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the negative battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the clamp until it does not rotate by hand.
- Apply battery terminal protector spray to the terminal if desired.
- Do not overtighten the battery clamp.
✅ After Repair
- Start your Escape and listen for a clean, quick crank.
- If the starter clicks but does not crank, stop and recheck the battery cable and starter wiring connections.
- Check that no warning lights stay on after the engine starts.
- Reset the clock and radio presets if needed.
- Take a short test drive, then recheck underneath for loose shields or rattles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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