How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L Turbo (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L Turbo (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Escape - Starter Motor Replacement
Replacing the starter motor on your Escape means removing the electric motor that cranks the engine and installing a new one. On the 1.6L turbo engine, the starter sits low on the transmission side, so most access is from underneath.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the battery before touching starter wiring. The starter cable carries very high current.
- ⚠️ Let the engine, turbo area, and exhaust cool completely before working underneath.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands every time. Never work under your Escape with only a floor jack holding it up.
- ⚠️ Keep the ignition off and the key away from the vehicle while working.
- ⚠️ Do not let the large starter cable touch metal while disconnected.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Battery terminal brush
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if damaged or corroded
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion protectant - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on a flat, solid surface.
- Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool.
- A jack stand is a solid support that safely holds the vehicle after it is lifted.
- A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Remove the negative cable from the battery post and move it aside.
- Use a battery terminal brush to clean corrosion if needed.
- Negative cable comes off first.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape at the front jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
- Lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable before going underneath.
Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Use an 8mm socket to remove the lower splash shield screws.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic push clips.
- If a clip is stubborn, use a flat blade screwdriver to gently lift the center pin.
- Set the splash shield aside.
Step 4: Locate the Starter
- From underneath, look at the transmission side of the engine near the lower rear area of the engine block.
- The starter is a small cylindrical electric motor with a thick battery cable attached.
- Use a flat blade screwdriver only to gently move small wiring retainers if they block access.
Step 5: Remove the Starter Wires
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut from the large battery cable on the starter solenoid.
- The solenoid is the smaller round electrical switch mounted on the starter.
- Move the large cable away from the starter and any metal parts.
- Disconnect the small control wire by pressing the connector tab by hand.
- If your connector uses a small retaining nut, use a 10mm socket to remove it.
- Pull the connector, not the wire.
Step 6: Remove the Old Starter
- Support the starter with one hand before removing the bolts.
- Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the starter mounting bolts.
- Lower the starter out carefully.
- Compare the old starter with the new starter. The mounting holes and electrical posts should match.
Step 7: Install the New Starter
- Lift the new starter motor into position by hand.
- Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 15mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
- Hand-start bolts before using tools.
Step 8: Reconnect the Starter Wires
- Push the small control wire connector onto the starter until it clicks.
- If it uses a nut, use a 10mm socket to snug it carefully.
- Install the large battery cable onto the starter solenoid stud.
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the starter cable nut to Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- Make sure the cable is not touching the exhaust, engine block, or any sharp edge.
Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- Lift the splash shield back into place by hand.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic push clips.
- Use an 8mm socket to reinstall the splash shield screws.
- Snug the screws only. Plastic shield fasteners strip easily.
Step 10: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower your Escape fully to the ground.
- Apply battery terminal anti-corrosion protectant if the terminal was corroded.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the negative battery terminal clamp to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Start your Escape and listen for a smooth, normal crank.
- If you hear one click, recheck the battery terminals and starter cable connections.
- If the starter spins but the engine does not crank, stop and recheck starter fitment.
- Check that the battery warning light turns off after the engine starts.
- Reset the clock and one-touch window function if needed after battery disconnect.
- For one-touch windows, hold the switch fully down for a few seconds, then fully up for a few seconds.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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