How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2019 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, safety tips, belt routing, and inspection guidance for 2014, 2015
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2019 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, safety tips, belt routing, and inspection guidance for 2014, 2015
🔧 Serpentine Belt - Replacement
The serpentine belt drives the engine accessories on your Explorer, including the alternator and A/C compressor. On this engine, the belt is routed under spring tension, so the main job is safely releasing the tensioner, swapping the belt, and checking the routing before startup.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work with the engine completely cool.
- Keep fingers, tools, and clothing clear of the belt path.
- The belt tensioner is spring-loaded; it can snap back fast.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable if you want extra safety around the starter area.
- Take a photo of the belt routing first.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Torque wrench
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
- Accessory drive belt tensioner - Qty: 1 if worn or noisy
- Belt idler pulley - Qty: 1 if worn or noisy
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely.
- If you disconnect the battery, remove the negative cable first.
- Open the hood and locate the belt routing sticker. If it is missing, take a clear photo before removal.
- Raise the front of the vehicle only if you need better access from below. Support it with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the belt and tensioner
- Open the hood and find the serpentine belt on the front of the engine.
- Find the belt tensioner. The tensioner is the spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
- Use a flashlight to trace the belt around each pulley.
Step 2: Record the belt routing
- Use your phone to take a photo of the belt path.
- Check the routing sticker if present.
- Do not trust memory on the belt path.
Step 3: Release belt tension
- Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar or serpentine belt tool (specialty) on the tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner in the direction that unloads the belt.
- Carefully slip the belt off one smooth pulley while holding the tensioner.
Step 4: Remove the old belt
- Slowly release the tensioner with the breaker bar or serpentine belt tool (specialty).
- Pull the belt out of the engine bay.
- Inspect the belt for cracks, missing ribs, glazing, or frayed edges.
Step 5: Inspect pulleys and tensioner
- Spin each pulley by hand.
- Use your hand to check for roughness, wobble, or noise.
- If the tensioner feels weak or the idler pulley is noisy, replace them now.
- Bad pulleys ruin new belts fast.
Step 6: Route the new belt
- Use the routing photo or sticker as your guide.
- Place the new serpentine belt over all pulleys except one easy-to-reach pulley.
- Make sure the ribs sit fully in the grooved pulleys.
Step 7: Install the belt on the last pulley
- Use the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar or serpentine belt tool (specialty) to release the tensioner again.
- Slip the belt onto the last pulley.
- Slowly let the tensioner return to its normal position.
Step 8: Verify belt seating
- Check every pulley to make sure the belt is centered and fully seated in the grooves.
- Look for any twisted sections.
- Rotate the engine by hand only if needed for a final check, using the proper socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt if accessible.
Step 9: Start and inspect
- Reconnect the negative battery cable if disconnected.
- Start the engine and watch the belt for a few seconds.
- Listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping noises.
- Shut the engine off and recheck belt alignment if needed.
✅ After Repair
- Verify all accessories work normally, including charging and A/C.
- Recheck the belt after a short test drive.
- Inspect again for belt tracking issues or fresh noise.
- If you replaced the tensioner or idler pulley, confirm there is no wobble or vibration.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















