🔧 Serpentine Belt - Replacement

The accessory drive belt on your Accord runs the alternator, A/C compressor, and other engine accessories. Replacing it before it cracks or slips helps prevent charging issues, noise, and loss of accessory function.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Let the engine cool fully before starting. The belt area is close to hot engine parts.
• Do not start the engine with the belt removed.
• Support the vehicle securely with jack stands if you raise the front passenger side.
• Keep hands clear of the tensioner spring. It is under strong load.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you want extra safety around the starter and alternator connections.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip tool
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Belt routing diagram

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Belt tensioner - Qty: 1 (recommended if noisy, weak, or worn)
• Accessory drive belt idler pulley - Qty: 1 (recommended if rough or noisy)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Put wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram. If the decal is missing, take a photo of the belt path before removal.
• If you raise the front passenger side, support it with jack stands before going under the car.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the belt area

• Use a floor jack to lift the front passenger side enough to work safely.
• Support the car with jack stands.
• Use a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver to remove the passenger-side lower splash shield fasteners if they block access.
• Keep fasteners in a tray.

Step 2: Note the belt routing

• Use the existing belt routing diagram or take a clear photo of the belt path.
• Make sure you can see how the belt wraps around each pulley before removal.

Step 3: Relieve belt tension

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar on the belt tensioner bolt.
• Rotate the tensioner in the direction that loosens the belt and hold it there.
• Slip the belt off one easy-to-reach pulley while holding tension on the tensioner.
• Torque for tensioner fasteners: recheck factory spec if the tensioner is being replaced; do not overtighten by feel.
• Move slowly. The spring is strong.

Step 4: Remove the old belt

• Use your hands to slide the belt off the remaining pulleys and remove it from the engine bay.
• Inspect the old belt for cracks, missing ribs, glazing, or frayed edges.

Step 5: Inspect pulleys and tensioner

• Spin the idler pulley and tensioner pulley by hand.
• Replace any pulley that feels rough, loose, or noisy.
• Check the tensioner arm for smooth movement and strong spring return.

Step 6: Route the new belt

• Install the new serpentine belt using the same routing as the original.
• Leave one easy-access pulley for last, usually near the top of the route, so you can slip the belt on while holding tension.
• Make sure every rib seats fully in every pulley groove.
• One rib off can shred the belt.

Step 7: Release the tensioner and verify seating

• Use the 19mm socket and breaker bar again to relieve tension.
• Slip the belt fully onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Check every pulley visually to confirm the belt is centered and straight.

Step 8: Reassemble and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the splash shield using the original clips and screws.
• Lower the car carefully from the jack stands.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Watch the belt for smooth tracking. It should run centered on every pulley.
• Listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping sounds.
• Turn the A/C on and off to check for proper accessory operation.
• If you replaced the tensioner or idler pulley, recheck for any abnormal noise after a short road test.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$240 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.