How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2017 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, safety tips, and belt routing guidance for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2017 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, safety tips, and belt routing guidance for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Serpentine Belt - Replacement
The serpentine belt drives the alternator, A/C compressor, water pump, and other accessories. On your Explorer, this is a straightforward belt replacement, but belt routing and tensioner access are tight, so take your time and follow the routing carefully.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool completely before starting. Belt area parts can be hot.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the belt drive.
- Keep fingers, clothing, and tools clear of the tensioner and pulleys.
- Do not start the engine with the belt removed unless instructed for diagnosis.
- If your belt has shredded, inspect all pulleys for damage before installing the new belt.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 15mm socket
- Ratchet
- Flashlight
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Jack stands
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and make sure the engine is fully cool.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the belt area.
- Raise the front of the Explorer if you need better access from below, then support it with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect power
- Use a 10mm wrench or the proper battery terminal tool to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery post.
Step 2: Locate the belt routing
- Use a flashlight to find the belt routing diagram under the hood or on the radiator support.
- If the diagram is missing, photograph the old belt routing before removal.
Step 3: Release belt tension
- Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar with the correct 15mm socket on the belt tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner in the direction that relieves belt tension.
- Move slowly and keep hands clear.
Step 4: Remove the old belt
- While holding the tensioner back, slip the belt off the easiest accessible pulley first.
- Slowly release the tensioner.
- Remove the belt from all pulleys by hand.
Step 5: Inspect the pulleys and tensioner
- Use your hand to spin each pulley and listen for roughness or noise.
- Check the tensioner pulley for wobble, cracked rubber, or weak spring action.
- If any pulley feels rough, replace it before installing the new belt.
Step 6: Route the new belt
- Route the new belt around all pulleys except the easiest final pulley.
- Make sure the belt ribs sit fully in each grooved pulley.
- Follow the routing diagram exactly.
Step 7: Install the belt onto the last pulley
- Use the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and 15mm socket to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slip the belt over the last pulley while the tensioner is held back.
- Slowly release the tensioner.
- Double-check every pulley groove.
Step 8: Verify belt alignment
- Use a flashlight to inspect the full belt path.
- Confirm the belt is centered on every pulley and not riding on an edge.
- Reinstall any splash shields if you removed them.
Step 9: Reconnect power and test
- Reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten it securely.
- Start the engine and watch the belt for a few seconds.
- Listen for squealing, chirping, or wobbling.
✅ After Repair
- Let the engine idle for 1-2 minutes and watch the belt track across the pulleys.
- Turn the steering wheel slightly and switch the A/C on to confirm normal accessory operation.
- Recheck belt alignment after a short test drive.
- If you hear noise, shut the engine off and inspect routing again.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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