How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2016 Ford Expedition
Step-by-step belt routing, tools list, safety tips, and post-install checks to stop squeal and slipping for 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2016 Ford Expedition
Step-by-step belt routing, tools list, safety tips, and post-install checks to stop squeal and slipping for 2015, 2016, 2017
đź”§ Expedition - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives accessories like the alternator, water pump, and A/C compressor. If it’s cracked, noisy, glazed, or slipping, replacing it prevents breakdowns and charging/overheating problems.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧤 Work on a cold engine to avoid burns from hot parts.
- đź§Ż Keep fingers clear of the belt path; the tensioner is spring-loaded and can snap back.
- 🧼 Don’t run the engine with hands/tools near the belt.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job, but keep the key off and away from the vehicle.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Flashlight
- Trim panel tool
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine fully cool.
- Find the belt routing diagram (usually a sticker under the hood). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removing the belt.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use a trim panel tool to gently pop the cover loose, or remove any fasteners with a 10mm socket (varies by cover style).
- Lift the cover off and set it aside. Pull straight up to avoid breaking grommets.
Step 2: Move the intake ducting for access (if needed)
- Loosen intake clamp(s) using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
- Unclip/loosen any attached tubes or retainers by hand, then move the duct out of the way.
- This creates space to reach the belt tensioner.
Step 3: Identify the belt tensioner and routing
- Locate the belt tensioner (a spring-loaded arm with a pulley).
- Most Ford tensioners have a square drive opening for a 1/2" drive breaker bar or 1/2" drive serpentine belt tool (specialty).
- A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin handle designed to reach tight spots safely.
Step 4: Release belt tension
- Insert a 1/2" drive breaker bar or 1/2" drive serpentine belt tool (specialty) into the tensioner’s square drive.
- Rotate the tensioner smoothly to relieve tension (it will feel strong because of the spring).
- While holding the tensioner back, slide the belt off one easy-to-reach pulley (usually an upper smooth/idler pulley).
- Slowly let the tensioner return to its rest position. Never let it snap back.
Step 5: Remove the old belt
- Pull the belt out of the remaining pulleys by hand.
- Use a flashlight to check pulleys for wobble, cracks, or rough bearings as you spin them by hand.
Step 6: Route the new belt
- Compare the new belt to the old one for length and rib count.
- Route the new belt following the under-hood diagram (or your photo).
- Make sure the ribbed side sits in ribbed pulleys and the smooth side sits on smooth pulleys.
- Fully seat the belt ribs into the grooves on every pulley you can see. One rib off = squeal and damage.
Step 7: Apply tension and finish installation
- Use the 1/2" drive breaker bar or 1/2" drive serpentine belt tool (specialty) to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slip the belt over the last pulley.
- Slowly release the tensioner and re-check belt alignment on all pulleys with a flashlight.
Step 8: Reinstall removed components
- Reinstall the intake ducting and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall the engine cover (if removed) by pressing it onto the grommets or fastening it with a 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds while you watch the belt track on the pulleys.
- Listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping noises (signs of misrouting or misalignment).
- Shut the engine off and do a final visual check with a flashlight to confirm the belt ribs are centered in the pulley grooves.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $150-$300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$85 (parts only)
You Save: $115-$215 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















