How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2016 Chevrolet Colorado (Step-by-Step)
Tools, belt routing tips, safety precautions, and post-install checks to stop squeal and prevent breakdowns for 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2016 Chevrolet Colorado (Step-by-Step)
Tools, belt routing tips, safety precautions, and post-install checks to stop squeal and prevent breakdowns for 2015, 2016
đź”§ Colorado - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives accessories like the alternator, power steering, and A/C. Replacing it restores proper accessory drive and helps prevent squealing, slipping, or a sudden no-charge/overheat situation if the belt breaks.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧤 Keep fingers/clothes clear of pulleys; never work near a running engine.
- 🔥 Let the engine cool; the radiator fan and front engine parts can be hot.
- 🔌 No battery disconnect is required, but keep the key out of the ignition to prevent accidental starting.
- 📸 Take a quick photo of belt routing before removal; routing mistakes are common.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8" drive breaker bar
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 15mm socket
- 15mm box-end wrench
- Flashlight
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (usually on the radiator support/under-hood label). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing.
- Assumption: Belt is serviced without removing other components on your V6.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the belt tensioner
- Use a flashlight to find the belt tensioner (it’s the spring-loaded arm with a pulley).
- Look for either a 15mm hex on the tensioner arm or a square hole that accepts a 3/8" drive breaker bar.
- A “tensioner” is a spring-loaded part that keeps the belt tight automatically.
Step 2: Relieve belt tension
- Install a 15mm socket on a 3/8" drive breaker bar (or insert the breaker bar into the square hole if equipped).
- Slowly rotate the tensioner to release tension from the belt. Use steady pressure—spring force is strong.
- Tip: Move slowly; don’t let it snap back.
Step 3: Slip the belt off one upper pulley
- While holding the tensioner released with the breaker bar, use your free hand to slide the belt off an easy-to-reach upper pulley (often the alternator).
- Carefully return the tensioner back to its resting position (do not release it suddenly).
Step 4: Remove the belt completely
- Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys by hand.
- Use the flashlight to check each pulley groove for debris or rubber strands.
Step 5: Inspect pulleys and tensioner quickly
- Spin each smooth pulley by hand. It should spin freely and quietly.
- Wiggle each pulley. There should be no looseness.
- If you hear grinding or feel wobble, that pulley/tensioner may need replacement (that’s a separate repair).
Step 6: Route the new belt
- Route the new belt following the under-hood routing diagram (or your photo).
- Make sure the belt ribs sit fully inside the grooved pulleys (the grooves must match the ribs).
- Leave one easy-to-reach pulley for last so you can slip it on after releasing the tensioner.
Step 7: Apply tension and seat the belt
- Rotate the tensioner again using the 3/8" drive breaker bar and 15mm socket (or the breaker bar alone if using the square hole).
- Slide the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly let the tensioner return to apply tension.
- Use the flashlight to double-check the belt is centered on every pulley.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and watch the belt for 20–30 seconds. It should run smoothly with no hopping or wandering.
- Listen for squealing or chirping. If you hear it, shut off the engine and re-check belt routing and pulley alignment.
- After a short test drive, do a quick re-check that the belt is still seated correctly.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $120-$250 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)
You Save: $95-$190 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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