How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2015 Honda Accord (Accessory Drive Belt)
Step-by-step belt routing, tensioner release, required tools/parts, safety tips, and final checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2015 Honda Accord (Accessory Drive Belt)
Step-by-step belt routing, tensioner release, required tools/parts, safety tips, and final checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Accord - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives key accessories like the alternator and A/C. On your Accord, you relieve spring tension with the belt tensioner, slip the old belt off, then route and install the new belt correctly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; the radiator fan can start unexpectedly.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers/clothes away from pulleys and the belt path.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Do not put hands between the belt and pulleys while releasing the tensioner.
- Battery disconnect is not required for belt replacement, but keep the key away from the car so no one starts it.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 14mm box-end wrench
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" extension
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flashlight
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lb range)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt (accessory drive belt, 6-rib) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (usually on a sticker near the radiator support). If missing, take a clear photo of the belt routing before removal.
- Tip: Draw a quick routing sketch.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the right-front corner for access
- Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to slightly loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts (do not remove yet).
- Lift the right-front with a floor jack and place the car securely on jack stands.
- Remove the wheel using the 19mm socket.
Step 2: Remove the right-front splash shield (inner fender)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out the plastic clips.
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet and 3" extension to remove any 10mm screws/bolts holding the splash shield.
- Pull the splash shield back to expose the belt and pulleys.
- Splash shield = plastic liner inside wheel well.
Step 3: Relieve belt tension using the tensioner
- Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm with a pulley). Tensioner = automatic belt tightener.
- Place a 14mm box-end wrench on the tensioner’s hex (on the tensioner arm).
- Rotate the tensioner to relieve tension (smooth, controlled movement). Hold it there.
Step 4: Remove the old belt
- While holding the tensioner released with the 14mm box-end wrench, slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach pulley (often the alternator or A/C pulley).
- Slowly let the tensioner return to rest (do not let it snap back).
- Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys and pull it out through the wheel well.
Step 5: Inspect pulleys and confirm routing
- Use a flashlight to check each pulley for wobble, cracks, or rough bearings (spin by hand).
- Compare your routing to the under-hood diagram/photo before installing the new belt.
Step 6: Install the new belt
- Route the new belt around the pulleys following the routing diagram, leaving one easy pulley for last.
- Use the 14mm box-end wrench to rotate the tensioner and create slack again.
- Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Visually confirm the belt ribs are fully seated in every grooved pulley (no rib “hanging off”).
- If it squeals, it’s often mis-routed.
Step 7: Reinstall splash shield and wheel
- Reposition the splash shield and reinstall fasteners using the 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 3" extension.
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lb).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and watch the belt for 20-30 seconds; it should run straight with no wobble.
- Turn A/C on and off and listen for chirping/squealing.
- Shut the engine off and re-check belt seating on all pulleys with a flashlight.
- If you hear persistent squeal, re-check routing and that the belt is fully in the grooves.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)
You Save: $120-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















