How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013 Toyota Corolla
Step-by-step belt routing, tools, safety tips, and inspection guidance for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013 Toyota Corolla
Step-by-step belt routing, tools, safety tips, and inspection guidance for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Serpentine Belt - Replacement
Your Corolla uses an automatic belt tensioner, so the job is mainly about releasing tension, slipping the old belt off, and routing the new one correctly. This is a straightforward driveway repair if you have good access from the passenger-side wheel area.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work with the engine fully cool before starting.
- Keep fingers clear of the tensioner and pulleys. The spring-loaded tensioner can snap back fast.
- If you raise the car, support it with jack stands before going under it.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable only if you need extra safety near the starter or wiring. It is not required for belt replacement.
- Do not start the engine with the belt off.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 14mm wrench
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
- Belt routing diagram - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and locate the belt routing label under the hood. If it is missing, take a photo of the current belt path before removal.
- If you plan to work through the passenger wheel well, raise the front-right corner and support it with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Gain access to the belt
- Open the hood and locate the serpentine belt on the front of the engine.
- If needed, use a floor jack and jack stands to raise the passenger side for better access.
- Remove any lower splash shield fasteners with a flat-blade screwdriver if they block access.
Step 2: Note the belt routing
- Use the under-hood routing label if present.
- If the label is missing, take a clear photo of the belt path before removing it.
- One wrong wrap can shred the belt.
Step 3: Release belt tension
- Fit a 14mm wrench or 1/2-inch drive ratchet onto the belt tensioner hex.
- Rotate the tensioner clockwise to relieve belt tension.
- Keep firm control of the tool while the spring loads up.
Step 4: Remove the old belt
- While holding the tensioner back, slip the belt off the easiest pulley first.
- Slowly release the tensioner.
- Remove the belt from all pulleys and pull it out of the engine bay.
Step 5: Inspect the pulleys and tensioner
- Spin each smooth pulley by hand.
- Listen for roughness, grinding, or wobble.
- Check the tensioner arm for smooth movement and strong spring force.
- If any pulley feels rough, replace it before installing the new belt.
Step 6: Route the new belt
- Install the new belt around all fixed pulleys first.
- Leave the easiest final pulley for last.
- Make sure the belt ribs sit fully in every grooved pulley.
- Ribs must sit straight and deep.
Step 7: Apply tension and finish routing
- Use the 14mm wrench or 1/2-inch drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slip the belt over the last pulley.
- Slowly release the tensioner.
- Check every pulley again to confirm the belt is centered and fully seated.
Step 8: Reassemble and verify
- Reinstall any splash shield pieces with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Lower the vehicle if it was raised.
- Start the engine and watch the belt for 30-60 seconds.
- Listen for squeal, chirping, or wobble.
✅ After Repair
- Confirm the belt tracks straight on every pulley.
- Turn the steering wheel and switch on the A/C to make sure accessory load does not cause slipping.
- Recheck belt alignment after a short test drive.
- If you hear noise, shut the engine off and recheck routing immediately.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















